Golf IV R32 :: Rear End Noise When First Start Moving And Turning Tightly?
Feb 5, 2014
Noticed with the colder weather that when I first start moving and turning tightly, (lets say out of a parking space both backing out or pulling forward) there is a sound coming from the rear end that sounds like a heavy treaded mud tire rubbing on an inner fender. Tried to read up on it and most posts say change your Haldex fluid, but unfortunately I haven't found a thread that says whats happening. I haven't changed the fluid yet and will. (it is at 16,430 since the last change so its getting close as is). When I engage the parking break one click the noise instantly goes away. Am I hearing clutch chatter, pump going out, just dirty or low fluid?
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2012 GTI, MT, 7k miles ... Now that I've determined the other noise I had is a wastegate rattle, I'm getting this lovely noise while moving and turning the wheel all the way, seems to only be when it's wet/rainy.
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I am getting this weird clicking/ticking noise coming from the rear of the car. I might have to let someone drive the car and follow and listen for myself (but i dont like other people driving my car), but its definitely coming from the rotation of moving.
It is audible moving forwards and reverse. It speeds up as the speed increases. It comes from the passenger side and can hear it mostly from the sound bouncing off things from the outside. I cant feel it, its just an annoying sound. I still hear it while applying the brakes. Sort of sounds like flicking sound. Pads have plenty of life and changed my rotors about 20k ago.
I've read somewhere about brake pad spring busting but its still audible when the brakes are on so I don't think that's it.
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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Seems that they tightened the bumper and fender too tight that they're currently rubbing and some paint seems to be chipping.
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I just installed my raceland downpipe and a 2.5 inch techtonics catback exhaust. all of a sudden i get a very in frequent ticking or clanking sound when the car is moving or right after i turn it off. it sounds like its coming from inside the piping. What this is?
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Ok, Lately my Touareg has been making a strange sound in the morning when I first put it in drive and start moving. It sounds like a spring uncoiling or something. The sound is coming from under the floor near the passenger seat as best as I can tell. It only happens for a second but is certainly noticeable. It also happens after being parked for a few hours at work. I love my Touareg but sometimes I wonder if they made it too complicated from an electrical standpoint.
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Have the HPA SHS installed now. Everything is aligned. Getting the worst clunk noise when moving the car backwards. The noise comes from the front right. Clunking with slight vibration felt in steering wheel. Also clunks when straightening out the wheel to move forward. The noise stops once I start going. What could cause this?
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When I turn my car to the left or right i hear a clicking sound. Usually happens when I am moving slow, like when backing into a driveway or parking spot. Could this be a tie rod, ball joint, or what? How can I be sure before just replacing parts? I need to have this fixed before I get my alignment, which has to happen before I get my rims.
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Have a cycling type mechanical noise coming from rear driver side wheel after I turn car off. Doesn't happen all the time...
See video : [URL] ....
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I have a honda crv 1999. There is a vibrating noise in the rear end every time I turn. I have had this problem for a couple of years. The reason I have'nt done anything about it was that my mechanic said it was an annoying noise but not dangerous...that he'd seen this in this type of vehicle many times. As it turns out my young neighbor has recently gone to school and become a honda mechanic so I asked him. He said that it was a simple fix...that I just had to change the differential fluid. When I told this to my mechanic he insisted that changing the differential fluid was a bad idea...that it might create problems that I don't have. My mechanic has always done well by me but the noise is scary. What should I do?
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2007 Extended cab F-150... Passenger doors rattle and don't seem to close tight? I tried to move latches , but didn't seem to work?
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We have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. It drives fine, but recently I have been hearing a clunking noise (two or three clunks) somewhere in the rear of the car AFTER I turn the car off. It does not clunk while driving or braking or slowing down: only right after the ignition is turned off.
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Lexus IS300... The sound is coming from the rear. It appears to be left rear. It comes and goes, but seems to intensify when accelerating and right turns. It's annoying. It's embarrassing. I have taken it to several different shops and nobody seems to be able to figure it out. What it could be?
See the video below to hear the noise : [URL] ........
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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Occasionally I have to turn over my MK6 twice to start. Happens when car is warm or cold. why? I have APR stage one, but hard starting happened before and after install. Have kessy, not sure if that contributes to the problem....
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More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
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In the past week I have three instances where my Jetta will not start. I end up taking the Touareg. When I get home, I try the Jetta again and it starts right up. The engine is turning over but nothing happens. When I turn on the acc, I can hear the fuel pump.
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2 weeks ago my fans stayed on all day and killed my battery. Did a bunch of research and found that the FCM would be a possible place to start. FCM was literally in pieces under the battery. Replaced it with a new one. Still no fans. Popped open the fuse box on top of the battery. Fuse closest to the engine was blown and the plastic had started to melt. Bought a whole new one of these and replaced it. This time I read about the AC test with the car off. AC works (which is a pleasant surprise) but only the big drivers side fan works. The small passenger side fan never turns on. Turned the key off and the fan stops so that's good, I think. Ever since then my battery gets drained if it sits for so many hours.
Everything I read points to that fan going bad and becoming inoperable. But is that what is causing my battery to drain? Today I pulled the fuse nearest the engine when I got to work to see if my battery stays charged all day. Well as of right now it will not even turn over. Went out after work and it turned over 6 times but did not start. Started to jump it using my buddies car. Let it charge for 20 minutes and now it wont turn over. Have dash lights. Glow plug light is working as it should. Headlights everything works. Charged up the battery. Have 13 volts at the battery. Doesn't make a difference. Still will not turn over. Going to pull my battery tray after work and see if I can see the solenoid. Will see if I have any power there. Can I see the solenoid from the top of the car? Probably not...
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I lowered my car recently and it makes a wicked rubbing noise when I turn right at a decent speed, I've heard the axle rubs i guess what you'd call the seat of the strut in the front, is this the case? and if so, what can be done to correct this issue, because by no means am i that that low, I've seen much lower.
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