Golf IV R32 :: Rear Caliper Seized When Disengage Emergency Brake
Aug 21, 2014
My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
View 8 RepliesMy caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
View 5 RepliesWhen I release it then start in reverse often the car doesn't move then there is a loud sound from the right rear tire. If I don't engage the brake it reverse fine.I don't know where to start with this. I assume there is a cable going back to the wheel cylinders. Perhaps binding up somehow.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
View 2 RepliesRoutine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
Okay let me start by saying my car is APR Stage 1. The other day I was driving with my cruise control on and held in the accelerate button to speed up. After holding in the button for a couple seconds the check engine light and battery light flashed back and forth as if I changed some setting with the tune. Ever since that happened, if I turn the TCS off, the emergency brake light comes out and the error message 'check brake pads' is displayed on the MFI. Also, the weird part is that it's not just the light. The actual emergency brake is slightly on without pulling the handle. I can feel it when I accelerate. It's harder to get the car going. Once I turn the car off and leave it off for a few hours it goes back to normal. Why this is happening?
View 1 RepliesI have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
View 18 RepliesSo, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
The dash DRL indicator comes on most of the time when I release the emergency brake. It seems that other times it doesn't. It also seems the indicator turns off after about 20 minutes. Does this sound normal, or does it sound like I have an electrical issue?
View 11 RepliesThis is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
View 5 RepliesNoticed blue calipers losing their color? Specifically looking like they have a dull coat of wax on them that doesn't come off with normal washing.
View 8 RepliesI have a stock '13 GTI with halogens and standard (non-LED) tails.
In VCDS, I coded the CECM to enable the brake light flashing under panic braking and also enabled the activation of hazard flashers under panic braking. Coding was accepted, no issues.
However when I did a driveby test yesterday with a friend watching, neither feature activated. I stomped on the brakes as hard as I could; ABS definitely engaged. So I was wondering a couple things:
Is there a minimum speed required before this will engage? I was probably going only about 35 mph when I hit the brakes.
Does this feature (at least the flashing brake light portion) require LED tails or will it work with the regular tails?
Looking on youtube videos of people who have activated this, it appears that they have both the flashing brake lights and flashing hazards activated at the same time so it would seem that's allowed by the CECM, yes?
Found a screen shot of the VCDS screen to show what I did:
I enabled BOTH bit 1 and bit 2. Some of the research I'm doing seems to hint that I should only be selecting one or the other?
one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
I have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
View 3 RepliesI have a VW Jetta 2012 and I would like to know how to take out only the leather from the Emergency brake handle as shown in the picture.
View 1 RepliesSo I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
According to the repair manual, you need to replace item 3, a Torque to Yield bolt, when removing the caliper. What is the part VW part number?
View 18 Replies