Golf IV R32 :: Rear Spacer From 15mm To 8mm
Oct 14, 2010
I have never put spacers on any of my cars so when I did to my R a while ago it was kind of a new thing for me. At first from what I heard it seemed to be a performance mod but then I started to perceive that it was for looks and that if you were performance oriented you would not run spacers, or at least on the R? A bit confused. Anyway I have rear adjustable control arms to put on now and I figure to correct the extreme negative camber (with the aftermarket lowered suspension) I would need to run a smaller spacer or I would have major rubbing issues.
When I first bought the spacers I bought 15mm H&R spacers for the rear and 8mm for the front. I never put the front on since i realized it would probably rub a lot. So now i am thinking of putting the 8mms in the back. (15mm spacers would go on sale btw, SF bay area if your interested). Rather put 10s but already have the 8s. Also, i am going to go find right sized polished bolts, since thats what I originally had but had to switch to unpolished longer bolts (which was what came with my spacers order). Also, I've noticed different driving characteristics with the 15mm spacers on. Taking a sharp turn hard, if i let off the gas, I will fishtail a little bit (as much a fishtail possible for an awd car)...i am attributing this to the spacers as i believe this was not happening before i had them on. Maybe the 22mm sway bar too? Its fun, but i can tell it is not the optimum set up for performance.
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Just picked up some VMR V701 18X8.5 with a 45 Offset in Gunmetal. Do I need Spacers to clear the brakes and prevent rubbing for the front and/or rear? If so, how many mm?
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I really like the look of cars with 25mm/35mm spacers with stock wheels and tires. But instead of using spacers, are there wheels with proper offsets to achieve the same result?
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Would like to replace the 2 1/2" aluminum ported 4bbl spacer down to an inch or so. Finding it difficult locating 'ported' aluminum spacers, however, there are several brands of the 'composite' type?
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Having problem after installing 15mm spacers. Cleaned the hub with sandpaper and re-torqued but still getting somewhat wobbling on flat roads.
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I just installed some 20mm wheel spacers. When I accelerate the car pulls to right!! Experienced this after installing spacers?? Could i have done something wrong??
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I replaced the radius arm bushings on my truck about a year and a half ago and about 6 months later I found that the nylon spacer on the driver's side cracked in half and only half remained on the truck so I replaced it (under warranty) and I found the same thing again today. I torqued it to factory specs and the passenger's side is fine. What gives?
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I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
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I Have had my 99.5 jetta for 4 years now, car drives straight, no tire wear issues, but from day one I have noticed by looking in the wheel wells of both rear tires that the r/s rear is set back further than the l/s rear, l/s rear looks centered in the wheel wheel and the r/s rear looks to be back further and not centered, no evidence of any rear damage from a previous owner, car drives straight as an arrow , I'm stumped, all four tires have worn even in the past 3 years.
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I just picked up a pure white 4 doors GTI SE last week. I noticed today that the rear windows don't go all the way down.
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So i bought my car 3 weeks ago knowing it had a bad rear diff vw is wanting to charge 2500 to 3000 to replace it (and i work sales).If i've found some used ones.
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I have a squeak in the rear from my V3 setup that I have been trying to diagnose for many months. I finally measured the spring and perch and have ordered these thrust bearings to try to eliminate the problem. For reference V3 rear springs are 60mm ID on the upper side which contacts the perch. I'll post if it solved the problem.
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I haven't been able to figure out after poking around in the car is how to get the damn rear armrest down.
Logic (and the owners manual) says you just pull the little tab and BAM...hello armrest. However, I've given it numerous solid tugs and it only moves about 3 inches out before stopping. I don't want to break anything, so I haven't touched it since...
So -- anyway...the question is -- is there some tab or something I need to pull or something I need to unlock to allow the armrest in the rear seat to come down? Or it is stuck somehow and I should just have the dealer look at it next time I'm in?
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I've had a funny noise from the rear of my car for quite a while now. It's a snap/crack sound that comes when the car is twisted along its length, like something is releasing tension or something. For not quite as long a while, I've been convinced that it's a matter of re-used stretch bolts (I'm not the one who re-used them though) on the both ends of the shocks back there.
I hear this sound (sometimes I can feel it as well) when I angle out of my driveway, which slopes down into the street beyond. Must angle out to avoid scraping the nose, and must TURN into the street anyway. Maybe under those conditions something shifts a bit. I have a UNIbrace; I know that's not got anything to do with it (I had it out for a bit to test).
Have new upper and lower rear damper bolts on hand. but probably worth it even if this makes no change. (Rule out the easy, inexpensive things first, they always say). My Bentley notes "spring must be removed before removing shock." I'm sure this is because the springs keep pressure on everything nearby and we don't want to release that suddenly by yanking the shock out. Or trying to.
If I have the rear of the car on stands and aim to do one side at a time, I can place the pad of my floor jack underneath the trailing arm back there, jack just a little to sort of "hold" the pressure on everything and remove/replace the bolts easily.
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So over the past few weeks my R has developed an intermittent clunking from the rear. It only happens at the beginning of a drive and very seldom does it do it after lets say 5-10 minutes of driving. At first I thought there might be something rolling around in the hatch, I ruled that out fast as I took everything out and it was still there. Then I thought since there was snow up here and I was playing in it I might have unbalanced a wheel but alas the weights are still stuck on and they haven't lost any weights so that is no go. I was able to get under it tonight and I checked all the bolts I could get to and they are all tight and there is no signs of scraping or stuff jiggling around, all the boots are good to go also no tears or holes in them.
The only thing that looked somewhat out of place was the bushing on the right rear swaybar endlink is mushroomed a bit but it doesn't seem like that would cause a clunking. I noticed my e-brake was sticking a little bit due to the cold but as soon as I press firmly on the brakes it goes away and I doesn't seem like that would make a clunking sound either.
I am doing a haldex fluid service as soon as the stuff gets here in the mail but I doubt that would cause clunking from the right outsides. The car has 98k miles and is on stock suspension, It doesn't seem to me that they could be bad already, and It doesn't always do it over bumps in the road.
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Picked up an R about a month ago. Have noticed a harmonic vibration when cruising just above 70 mph to 75 mph from the rear. I can assure you that it is not the wheel balance. Seems to go away if I depress the clutch. I'm thinking it is the butterfly valve on the muffler not fully closing and creating a resonance by fluttering at the rpms (exhaust flow) between 70-75 mph. I haven't tried disconnecting/plugging the vacuum line yet.
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Do the rear wiper arm of a new model Audi A3 can replace the 2015 GTI's? The GTI version leaves a bunch of the blade exposed and I would like a cleaner look with no exposed blade. I think the A3 may work and still have the same size wiper.
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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I'm trying to take out the rear center headrest and I can't for the life of me work out how. Holding the button on the leg collar down only lets me raise it by about half an inch.
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