Golf IV R32 :: Rattle Noise When Idle - Goes Away When Push The Clutch
Apr 23, 2012
So when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
View 5 RepliesSo when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
View 5 RepliesI have had a FX400 installed for about 4 months with a solid flyweel(stock weight). Question is at idle the clutch will rattle? When the Clutch pedal is pushed in the noise is gone. When you engage 1st and accelerate through 1st and 2nd it will rattle till you get into higher RPM's. In higher gears the noise is not present or at least unable to be heard. Is this normal operation for an aftermarket clutch and flywheel? This is not the normal chatter while slipping the clutch slightly to get the car moving Which is only present if you accidentally slip too much. Otherwise there is no chatter under normal driving.
View 5 RepliesSpecs :
-SB stage 3 feramic clutch with ss flywheel
-Motul trans fluid
What exactly is making this sound? What do I do to fix this because its driving me insane. Noise is constant with clutch out. Goes away when pushed in. Rattle when at low rpm. This clip is me lightly revving the engine. This is something clutch/flywheel related.
I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
View 2 RepliesCamry 2011 making noise I would say kind of rattle noise. Makes noise mostly in the morning when I push gas and stays there for 7-10 minutes and then goes away. Also in the afternoon when I get out from work and start driving. What makes this noise or where it is coming from.
View 7 RepliesWhen I push down the clutch there is an annoying whining noise. I can be at a stop or driving and either way it does it. It goes away when I let the clutch up. 04 GLi 1.8T 6 Speed. Has the Valeo Single Mass clutch conversion.
View 4 RepliesI just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
I bought my 2014 GTI TUESDAY... In less than 24 hours, I noticed a knock when the car was at idle with the clutch not in. Went away once the clutch was in. The car has 248 miles on it.
I am thinking it is the throw out bearing, but vw service seems to think it is nothing and they want to just run some tests and keep it for the weeknd. In all reality, I will have the rental longer than I actually had my brand new car.
Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
View 6 RepliesMy cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
View 3 RepliesI've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
View 1 Replies2000 GTI all stock 220K miles
AEG motor
02J transmission
I just swapped clutch on the manual transmission of 2.0L 4 cylinder GTI.
Now every time I start the motor, I hear high pitched rattlesnake sound. It starts about 2-3 seconds after the motor starts.
The sound is coming from center of oil pan or downpipe area but can't tell how high on the motor's long block the source of sound is located at.
Check out the following youtube video. You can hear the sound at 9 seconds and it get really audible around 12 - 14 seconds and disappears around 21 seconds. I can hear this sound for the whole duration of motor running. The sound is not coming from the downpipe cover.
(That was my first mistake). He did it in his garage and everything seemed fine. Then about 2 weeks later I noticed that when I pushed in the clutch to shift gears it would come out of gear fine but, did not want to go into gear without a wrestling match between me and the gear shift. It didn't grind or make any noise it just refused to go into gear like I was pushing and some invisible wall had dropped preventing it from going back into gear. It doesn't always do it. I have noticed no pattern in when it does it.
Sometimes Ive been driving a while and it starts, other times I just started the car and within minutes of driving down the road it starts refusing to shift back into gear. I have noticed when It gets really bad I hear and feel this thumping or banging when I push the clutch in. When I pump the clutch a few times, sometimes this works to get it back into gear. At times it is so hard to put back into gear that I have had to use both hands on the clutch to force it into gear.? I have discussed this with some people they think it is my "pressure plate" (what ever that is). I do know that when the guy put the new clutch in he was not able to polish something down? The new clutch was installed about may 2012.
I have a 2004 mazda b2300 4cyl 5 speed that wants to stall on me sometimes when I engage the clutch and all most come to a complete stop. It does not happen every time i do this, but some of the time. I am able to instantly restart the truck and drive just fine. I am just confused at what might cause this. I did a tune up to it this weekend, and the cap from the clutch fluid did come off, I don't know if this would have anything to do with it. The truck runs great, just wants to stall some times.
View 19 RepliesI have this rattle from the tranny at idle in park. If I blip the throttle it goes away. I'm guessing a heat shield vibrating or something....I seem to recall my Corrado having a similar sound at idle.
View 1 RepliesToday I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
View 10 RepliesMK6 gti/golf ... I recently found a new *metal* type rattle coming from my rear seat on the passenger side no one seemed to have the fix for it online, so i decided to hunt for the rattle. found it and the fix is very easy. There are 3 possible repairs:
Repair 1 steps:
1) release the rear seat clips, 2 slide in clips in the front, just pull up, and then the 2 rear hooks by pushing the seat back and up motion to unhook.
2) fold the carpet over on the passenger side and you will find the fuel tank access lid
3) pull the grommet with the wires going through it out, i also wrapped the module sitting in the pocket of the lid with cloth tape/ felt tape
4) pull up on the plastic lid. (you might break a tap or two of the lid you can easily secure the lid down with sound deadening or dum dum)
5) first thing you see is a black and blue fuel line ( mine were touching each other making a rattle noise) and if u were to shake the lines they would rattle farther in against the body
6) take piece of rubber hose (i used a type of fuel line i had at work) cut one side of the rubber hose so u can fit it over the line.
7) slide the rubber piece over both lines and push it in as far as you need, untill the line does not hit the body or make a rattle type noise.
8) place one more piece where the two lines touch
9) re assemble the rear seats (seal the lid if you broke any clips. to prevent air noise)
Repair 2:
1) lift car up and locate the top camber bolt on the passenger side. there should be a white plastic evap line. i found mine touching and rattling.
2) cut a piece of rubber hose and slice one side so you can slip it over the line
Repair 3:
1) remove the 10 mm plastic nuts on the plastic cover on the passenger side to reveal the fuel lines and evap lines.
2) found my lines touching
3) place rubbing tubing on all three of the lines
4) re assemble plastic cover and road test car.
You can always add more rubber pieces if needed.
Just noticed a clicking noise every time I push the clutch pedal down, I had my wife push the pedal while I listened under the hood and no noise it's coming from the clutch assembly under the dash! It's a 2013 only 4000km's on it so it's not like anything should be worn from over use etc. It's when I had the radio off driving I heard it, not super loud but more curiosity if it's normal noise from a clutch assembly.
As well the odd time I hear well my wife heard and pointed it out to me, when I push the brake pedal (more when we get in the car in the morning after sitting overnight) the same kinda sound more like when brake pad's are gently popping loose I guess you could say!? Like I said its mainly only after sitting for awhile, but we did hear it the odd time just as I go to slow down and only a quick 'click' again not deadly or anything more annoying that the car is brand new and we went brand new cause we were tired of creepy older cars we'd previously driven! I'm wondering if that may be exactly why its doing it since its new and need's to be used a bit to loosen up, this is the actually the first brand new no previous drivers car I've had!
The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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