Golf IV R32 :: Rattle From Right Rear Wheel Goes Away When Brakes Applied?
Aug 22, 2010
On the r32 there is a rattling noise coming from the right rear wheel. It's a very tinny sound and is definitely a metallic noise. The weird thing is as soon as you his the brake, it goes away. Even if you just lightly press on it, it stops. I took the wheel off, looked around for anything loose and found nothing. It's super loud though and completely embarrassing. My e36 bmw does the same exact thing as well and has done so for years, but its much quieter and not as often. On the mkiv its almost constant and at every speed.
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I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
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I was stopped, turning my steering wheel to do a hard turn to get out of my parked position, as I turned my wheel I heard a THUNK.Then I reversed, got out of park, then went into drive and proceeded to drive to work. I noticed at every light, when I was stopped with my foot on the break, there was a new RATTLE in the vicinity of the front right tire, where I had heard the thunk. The rattle only occurs when the break is applied.
What could this be? The car is still under warranty, do I need to head straight to the dealership and "not pass Go"?
The Honda Jazz (Fit is the name in the US) is a 2010.
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my 99 s/w 2 started making a squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel area it goes away when I apply the brakes? is that one of those built in warning features to let you know the brake pads are getting low? the brakes have 86,000 miles on them.
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Yesterday I had my snow tires installed at Costco. Immediately afterward I noticed that the rear brakes squeak when I apply the brakes. I took the car back to Costco and asked them if they applied the proper torque or if anything unusual appeared during the change-over. They said no.... I loosened and retorqued the wheels and no change......they still squeak when I apply the brakes.
Questions: I assume there are wear indicators on the rear pads, could this be causing the squeeling? If so, aren't they supposed to squeel all the time when they reach their limit? I haven't inspected the wear yet...... What the tolerance is for the amount of lining on the pad. Could this be a rotor problem? I"m not feeling any pedal vibration.
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I just purchased a used 2007 Lexus GS 350 AWD. I had it inspected and there were some minor problems (air filter, small oil issue) but nothing big. Driving it, I've noticed that the wheel shakes a little bit when applying brakes and based on my google searches, it's likely a rotor problem. I've literally only driven the car less than 100 miles since it was inspected. Does the inspection place (Tires Plus) bear any responsibility for clearing the inspection on the car? Should I take the car to Tires Plus to look at or should I take it somewhere else?
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I have started hearing a noise with my brakes. First thing in the morning when I back up and apply the brakes, I get a clunk or pop noise from the left front wheel. It will pop again once I move forward and hit the brakes. It only does the noise one time when I first apply the brakes in either direction. Once the brakes have been used out on the road and are warm, there is no noise when changing directions. I've had this noise in another car I used to have and it was caused by the aftermarket brake pads not being exactly large enough and there was slight pad shifting in the caliper. Being this is a new car and has the OEM pads, I would hope there would be no pad shifting or movement in the calipers.
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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I have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
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The other day, I was coming home from work. After dropping off co worker, an old man pulled out infront of me. I applied the brakes. As car came to stop I heard a loud thump come from rear. Sounded like i was either bumped by a car, or maybe my entire rear end slid up 5 inches. But that's kinda what it was like. Then after the thump, I put my foot on gas pedal, and instead of car moving forward, the engine just revved. No movement, revved to like 3 grand. I let foot off gas pedal. And tried again. Car moved as normal. Then on the way home i attempted the same combo of rather quick brake and then gas. Same kinda thing happened. Not so hard of a thump. But noise from rear followed by the car no moving, just revving up till i stop and then try again. So even tho my story may suck n my explanation my suck more, whats going on? I just picked this wagon up. 01 glx 65k.
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I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
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I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
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So I drove 400 miles today and when I was just about home I heard a grind when I applied the brakes on the freeway. Well I did a walk around the car to check all the pads and noticed my rear pads are almost gone. I'm not used to having the rear brakes implemented in so much of my daily driving, with the TCS and all.
To make it easy I'd like to keep all four corners on the same brake setup, I'm just not sure what is ideal on this car. I know OEM is gonna be said, but I upgraded my front pads to Hawk HPS'.
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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Noisy steering wheel. It doesn't matter where I position the wheel, I'm hearing clatter when going over bumps or when putting pressure on the wheel. It has no effect on steering. I think it's coming from somewhere inside the adjustment mechanism. I figure the dealer will need to take a look.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I have a '96 Windstar, 3.8L base model.
I've notice a bumping around, rattle type noise in the wheel well or below the adjacent floor at the right rear tire. I'm still looking into the cause at this point.
The "tracking bar" was replaced last year, and is firm and tight. The rear exhaust pipe was also replaced last year, and I've checked that it might be "tapping" on the body of the van by checking it's range of movement.
The shocks are relatively new (<50,000 miles)...
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Today while switching out the winter tires, I noticed it took significant effort to rotate the rear wheels, both of them. There is a binding noise I heard when I rotated each of the wheels as though the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors. Would it be OK to take it into Sears for a brake pad/caliper check and possible cleaning/lubing of these? Or are these components so unlike those on other vehicles that I should have the dealer check them out?
This was the first time I did the switching of the tires, so I don't know if the wheels have been bound for a long time. Also, in the middle of winter, suddenly the MPG rose for a few days (the vehicle seemed to move easier as well) and then went down. I am now suspecting the binding brakes on the rear might be the issue.
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