Golf IV R32 :: Rapid Deceleration After Taking Foot Off The Gas - Getting Code P3801
Jul 16, 2013
Today I noticed that it feels like my R decelerates rather quickly as soon as I take my foot off the gas. In my old GTI, it seemed that it would glide in whatever gear I was in for a while. In this, however, It seems to slow down VERY quickly if I am not pressing in the accelerator.
Am I just crazy, or could this be an actual issue? My only thoughts are that the emergency brake cable is too tight and the brake is stuck on a little bit? Any thoughts?
I do have a CEL on from code P3801, which I read is most likely the ECT sensor. I know this may cause a loss of gas mileage, but could this be the culprit of this (almost) issue?
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The other day I decelerated rapidly. I didn't slam on the brakes, but I went from maybe 45mph to 0 in maybe 40 feet or so. When the car stopped, the CEL came on. No apparent issues at the time so I drove it the last few miles home. I checked under the hood with the engine running and heard a whistling noise which I tracked to the plastic pipe connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster. I didn't take a picture of it, but it is the one that has a silver heat wrap on part of it where it passes close to the throttle body. I grabbed a random pic online that kinda shows it.
R32 bay pic by isaacpettit, on Flickr
I believe this pipe feeds air from the intake manifold to charge the brake booster? If this was the case, I thought possible by hitting the brakes harder than usual the back pressure at the check valve was enough to burst the plastic pipe, which may have been heated, stressed already? Then the vacuum leak caused the CEL?
What is the actual purpose of that pipe. The car is well maintained with recent service and just over 30K miles.
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When driving, if I let off on the gas, my 2016 Elantra kinda coasts for a second or 2 and then does a rapid deceleration or sometimes sudden acceleration and moves unevenly instead of coming to a smooth stop or slowly coasting at a constant speed. The car jerks just enough to feel like I'm braking a bit. Not smooth like it should be.
I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?
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It seems to me my Prius 2007 decelerates noticeably when I take my foot off the accelerator. It's noticeable but not even near the level of the engine braking in B mode. The change seems to have happened since my last service but the I won't swear to it, and the dealer says there hasn't been a software change.
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If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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I have a 2006 Azera Limited, and over the past few months I have noticed that when driving it is dark, my headlights will dim drastically either when I brake under about 30 mph, or when I let up on the gas going around 30-35 mph. I can see the tach drop to below 500 rpm, and the interior lights will also dim. It frustrates me because I took it to the dealership yesterday to have them look at this, and they said they couldn't see anything wrong. They said there were no error codes, the alternator was fine, and the battery looked fine. They said "just keep an eye on it" when I picked it up yesterday.
This morning on my drive to work it happened about 5 times. It bugs me because I feel as if it is going to stall, and when the lights dim like that, I can't see!! It's usually brief - about a second or so - but still. What it would be, so when I take it back to them I can tell them what is going on? I love my Azera, but to be honest I don't know much about the inner-workings of cars, so where to start if I was to look at it myself. It seems electrical, but they assured me that nothing was wrong.
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I have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
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The headlights went out on the automatic "arrive home mode" more than the programmed 15 seconds. The interior overhead and foot lights took as much as 5 minutes to cease and desist.
V6, silver/gray
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I have a 2009 Tiguan Auto Diesel and have noticed recently that, when cruising along, if I take my foot off the gas pedal the revs drop to idle. The revs only pick up again if I touch the accelerator. Im sure it did not used to do this. If you feather the gas pedal to maintain a set speed (say 50mph) then this can have the effect of the rev counter dropping to idle and going up again to, say 2500 rpm all the time.
The rev counter seems to be all over the place!!! I also had a stall situation the same day. I was leaving a driveway to join a main road. The driveway is on a slight incline when exiting. I nudged up to the kerb line as normal and then took my foot off the gas to check noting as coming. Nothing was so I accellerated gently and the car stalled. I think this is related.
The Tigual Auto box is not DSG it is regular Auto and it is also 4motion. I have noticed the haldex doing its thing in D2 when pulling off, you know that weird bit where the revs drop a bit even though the gear is not changing. This is a little similar to that but not the same....
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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ive read through most of the "clunk" threads none fit what im experiencing. so anyway, i just got the car back from getting the coil packs replaced under recall and im driving on the highway cruising at a steady 70mph. every time i take my foot off the throttle from a steady speed or accelerating i get this clunk and quick vibration in the front end, i can feel it through the steering wheel. thought it was the adapters so checked them, theyre all torqued properly. i can feel the clunk through the steering wheel, and its not the normal clunk when the awd disengages. it only happens at highway speeds when i let off throttle. could it be the dogbone or other engine mounts maybe?
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My 2011 Golf with the 2.5 has developed a rapid chirping sound at 55-60 mph, that varies in rapidity as I decelerate from 60 mph. Doesn't do it at lower or higher speeds. It isn't terribly loud, but noticeable. Only have a little over 24,000 miles on it.
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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So I just brought my 2015 golf TDI in for its 20,000 standard service and then starting about 2 days later, every time I start the engine there is this rapid (and loud) ticking sound which goes on for 20 seconds or so before stopping. It almost sounds like it is coming from the passenger side speaker or under the passenger side dash. It sounds electronic in nature rather than mechanical but I'm not really sure.
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So far it was the coldest day this early morning at 5am when i went to work here LA at 55 degrees i don't know if it had something to do with this coolant leak. Iwent home from work at 1:30 pm. 2 miles away from home, i get the STOP Coolant warning on the display check manual .
After parking at home, saw some smoke in front of the car maybe because the engine was hot and the coolant spraying in the engine bay some hitting the Evoms intake and there's a lot of coolant liquid just beside the oil filter underneath the air intake. also saw lots of coolant leaked into the floor surface.
I went inside got some coolant and filled with coolant almost full. after taking a nap,drove the R too see if the coolant warning is gone. not even 50 meters coolant warning lit. drove for 1.5 miles to Century City mall to buy stuff, after parking, i popped the hood then surprised, coolant tank was TOTALLY EMPTY! Engine was hot as well, decided to call tow truck.
I hope it's just a lose coolant hose.
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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Second gear, I am going 40mph and I let off the throttle and start engine breaking. My exhaust burbles and crackle a LOT. Now, I love the sound. But just want to make sure it is normal. I just took my rear seats out, so I am not sure if it is louder / there because of that, or its just a coincidence.
I read a thread a while back where a fellas intake changeover failed and it started doing that really loud as well.
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Bought a Jetta GLI 2004.5 in January. 94K miles. No noises accelerating or while coasting (clutch or neutral). However, when I decelerate in 3rd and 4th gear w/ no foot on gas, there is a very apparent whirring sound from the front-end (maybe in the engine bay). But I don't hear it while decelerating in any other gears. What is the cause? I will try and capture sound later when I get home. Just wanted to see if this was a common fault.
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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
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