Golf IV R32 :: Random Long Crank Usually Happens When It Is Really Cold
Feb 10, 2013
I was going to post this in the technical forum, but going by the amount of replies, this forum seems to have much more traffic. Anyway, my car has random long crank issues. It usually happens when it is really cold or if the car has sat for a day or more. I will have to hold the key over for 5+ seconds, but as soon as I turn the key back and crank again, it fires right up.
I have replaced the battery and tested it and the alternator, replaced the CTS (green top), not that it's relevant, but I just replaced the thermostat, housing and all seals, no CEL. Any other things I can check?
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I have a early 99 f250 super duty 7.3l and it's giving me fits. about a month ago the truck started to do a hot no start. drove truck for about a hour. Shut it off and half hour later no start. Let it sit over night and would start with long crank.
Changed CPS no change. Pulled tuner and set back to stock. No change.
Changed fuel filter, no change.
After reading forums changed IPR and truck started and ran great. About a week ago back to the same problem. Battery's are about 2 months old. Oil change and oil filter a month ago.
Checked the hpop reservoir and its 1/2 from the top.
Checked fuel bowl and it has fuel. no sign of oil in it.
Drained bowl and watch bowl fill back up. seems to fill quickly.
Pulled passside valve cover to check for bad orings while cranking.
Every thing seems fine. have not done driver side yet. used FORSCAN and ran buzzed test on injectors and they all buzzed what seems to be about the same. ran test couple of times to make sure. this morning I ran a live scan while cranking and this is what I got right before it started. ICP 660.6psi, IPR 64.84% and RPMs 227. took 8.86 seconds to start. after work scaned again for hot no start and this what I got. ICP 292.9psi, IPR 55.86%. and RPMS 203. unplug ICP and no change. still will not start. one thing I did notice when plugging ICP back in I looked down in side at the pins and can see what seems to be bubbling around one of the pins. the pig tail has just the slights sign of oil.
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6.0 has had dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced and still has a long crank when cold. The kicker is that it doesn't happen when the truck is parked nose up in the driveway. It only happens if the truck is level or back into the driveway. I suspect it's that the HPOP is losing prime from somewhere.
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The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
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So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
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I own 2013 Mk6 GTI. I am having to over crank the engine for a period of 8 seconds or so before the car starts, especially after it has been sitting for a few hours. My thought was a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I have heard that our fuel filter has a built in pressure regulator that may get stuck open for whatever reason and that may also cause a long crank time.
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I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
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I have been having this odd issue where my car will back fire after a cold start. It only happens when getting out of first gear and going into second while driving (it happens as soon as I press the clutch pedal all the way in, and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is back out). It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. My only explanation of this would be that I live a mile above sea level (I looked at the FAQs and know that the car will act like its about to die on a cold start, yet it doesn't). So with my only "explanation" of this phenomenon being that I live a mile above sea level and the engine running rich for a few minutes after start up. My car is stock with the exception of the flapper mod.
Pics for Clicks ......
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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Recently, my Prius has been randomly giving me the single, long warning beep when I try to lock it by touching the handle. The car is definitely not still on, and the key is in my pocket when it happens. I've checked the doors, and none are ajar. It's not 100% consistent, but happens about 50-75% of the time. When it happens, I can lock the car with the key or keyfob - but touching the handle just gets me the long beep and no lock.
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I use a thumb drive plugged into the UBS port. I have maybe 16gb of music on it. I have noticed that each time I turn on the ignition, it take FOREVER for the infotainment to load the thumb drive. How it can be resolved?
I had about 1 TB of music on a solid state portable hard drive and it would load right away in my Tundra. Also have the same 16gb stick in my aftermarket stereo in my 2001 Honda Civic beater car and it loads right away.
Also, how to pick random among all albums? Can't get that to work either.
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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I have about 3400 miles on my Sonata 2.0T, and I have experienced a long crank with (puttering in between), and does not start, twice occurrence thus far. I have no warning lights, no lamps (SES) that stay on afterward, nothing at all. I have had to press the "start/stop" button again to make it stop, then let it sit for a few seconds press the button again, re-cranks, and starts this time. I know that if take to the dealer they will not find anything wrong since most concerns they have to duplicate in order to diagnose. The SES light is not on, so I know we have no fault codes to go by. Sounds as if the fuel pump is crapping out, or no spark is being generated.
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I have a 2002 celica after sitting for a hour or so car has very long crank....
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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Went on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
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I have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
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I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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I have a 1988 Dodge pickup 1500 with a 5,9 gas engine. It used to pop right over all the time. Now, in the morning, I have to crank it forever until it starts, and if it sits for 1 hour or more, same thing (have to crank for a long time). It is my understanding there is a valve called a one day valve that holds pressure on the gas line. Is it possible this valve is not working properly? And if so, do I have to replace fuel pump to fix problem? once started it starts up with no problem until it sits for hour or more then hard to start.
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I'm having a long crank cold start issue. It takes about 2 five second cranks before the truck will start up. It just started acting this way yesterday before I fired it up to go to school. After its warm it fires up no problem the rest of the day, just takes a bump of the key.
I don't think it's the GP system as this truck has started at -20 to -25C all winter long unplugged with no issues. From my reading some sources say that it could be a HPOP leak, maybe dummy plugs?
Is there any way for me to do some more diagnosing - places to look or test for? There are no stored codes other than an EGR code due to the delete. Truck is completely stock with atlas 40.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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