Golf IV R32 :: RPM Reading On Crank But No Spark Or Fuel
Sep 10, 2011
Coilpacks get 12V during ACESS, 9V when cranking. Crank sensor gets 10V, and VAG reads RPMs on crank, but no spark, no fuel.
View 2 RepliesCoilpacks get 12V during ACESS, 9V when cranking. Crank sensor gets 10V, and VAG reads RPMs on crank, but no spark, no fuel.
View 2 Replies2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
I brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
View 12 RepliesMy Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
View 11 RepliesWas driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
View 2 Replies1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
I bought a Prius C package 4 in Silver with Black interior with 16 inch allow wheels yesterday, I really like the cool technology and the look of the car. I bought it from a dealership roughly 160 miles from my home. Once I purchased it and was driving back on the Florida Turnpike, I first started of getting 43mpg, I was in the higher green area of the Eco meter, basically I was pushing the gas pedal and it was reading roughly 90 percent of the Eco meter is being used, I was driving at 78-83 mph. After an hour or so, I checked again and to my surprise it was reading 32.2mpg, I was really concerned, and slowed the speed, but it didn't change the mpg at all. After another 15 minutes, the mpg raised .1 every 2 minutes or so until I got home and parked my car I was getting 35.8.
This morning I woke up, got into my car and started driving for about 20 minutes, it is still reading the same 35.8. This is with me driving around 50 percent of the Eco meter
I'm concerned, is there something I'm doing wrong, do I need to reset this mpg, if I do, how do I do that.
I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
Having problems with the fuel indicator not reading full after a fill up. I have slowly filled my 2012 Passat TDI SEL till I can see diesel in the filler neck and the gauge still only shows 7/8 full?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1999 GMC Yukon SLE. I've recently noticed that I appear to be running out of gas at the 1/2 tank mark. When I go to fill it, it seems I really do still have 1/2 a tank of gas (so it doesn't seem to be just a bad gauge). As long as I keep the tank above 1/2, everything is well. What might be causing this?
View 9 RepliesWhen I start the car the fuel gauge sometimes goes past F and interferes with the water temp gauge. Also noticed recently that the RPM is not reading correctly.
View 5 RepliesDriving on my original tank from dealer today from Upstate NY to NYC. On the way my C had 4 bars to begin then went to 3, then 2 after about 90 miles of traveling at avg of about 55mph. I watched the cruising distance go down to 1 but I still had 2 bars on my fuel gauge (and my crusing distance was conservative compared to my mpg reading the whole trip, which was hovering around 58mpg).
The gauge went from 2 bars to one flashing bar in about 1 minute. I pulled into a gas station about 2 miles ahead and put in about 5 gallons... this put the fuel gauge up to 3/4s or about 3 bars above the halfway mark. What gives? I know there are fuel gauge issues but I thought with two bars I would have had plenty of time before I needed to fill up on these roads with these mpgs.
So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
89 2.3l 4x4 will crank just fine but no start. It is getting plenty of fuel. Replaced ignition module,crank sensor,computer, checked all fuses. I've been looking for a broken wire with no luck. Doesn't seem to be getting any power to the coil packs. Truck was not driven very often until a month ago. Started up fine everyday until the no start.
View 10 Repliesi own a 67 old cutlass supreme and the fuel gauge, as you turn off the car goes down to 3/4 of a tank, when you start it up it goes to full. But the car is really empty! That is the only reading I get, no matter how much gas I have. I replaced the sending unit and I cleaned the ground wire, it still does the same.
View 4 RepliesOccasionally when i start my Ex, there will be NO tach reading (0 RPM) and NO fuel gauge reading (E). The Temp and Oil gauges will work fine though.
After a min or so, they come to life and move normally. This happens intermittently.
2001 V10 4x4 Limited.