I recently installed an odyssey pc925 in the trunk of the R and now I'm hearing an RPM dependent whine. I actually happen to have the same head unit (Pioneer AVIC Z1) but I don't have any RCA cables hooked up, so I don't know what could be causing the whine.
View 19 RepliesI have a new sound. I recently swapped my coolant and thermostat. After that a slight whistle has developed. It seems like it is RPM dependent, it hasnt gotten any worse after a solid 400 miles of driving, but it also hasn't gotten any worse. It sounds like if someone has slightly blowing into a whistle, but not all the way. What it could be?
View 24 Repliesyesterday I got the idea to move the plate bracket on the front all the way down so it gives it a much cleaner look and doesn't obstruct the grille. To do so test mount the bracket on the lowest position, then have someone hold it. Then you take a 1/8 drill bit and make the two new wholes then put everything back together.
View 8 Replies2015 F350, Want to do a leveling kit. Are the spacers good enough or should I do the track bar relocation too?
View 5 RepliesAbout a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
View 4 RepliesFirst I noticed that the parking brake light and battery light came on, which would indicate an alternator problem. I took it in, they cleaned up the engine, replaced a few hoses and said the alternator was fine. Two days later I'm driving home, I make it to my driveway and the battery dies. I was able to charge it up and dive it back to the station where they told me the alternator had burned out...
A few days later I notice my brake lights weren't working, but that was just a blown fuse.
Starting today, there is a high pitched whine when I'm driving. I can barely hear it when I'm idle, but going up to 20 or 30 it gets very loud, then kind of dies off. It definitely gets louder when I'm accelerating, vs going a steady speed. As I was driving earlier, the air bag light came on for a brief second, and I didn't think anything of it, until later tonight when I was driving home and it came on again, but this time it stayed on.
Santa Fe GLS, 135,000 miles
1997 328i 5sp 295k miles
Speed-dependent road noise, mildly pulsating roar as though I were driving a truck, just keeps getting louder as the weeks go by. Completely independent of load. Accelerating, decelerating, coasting, disengaging clutch, has no affect on volume or pitch of noise. Volume and pitch increases with speed. At 20 mph it is noticeable. At 80 mph it is quite annoying. Seems completely independent of road surface.
Rear wheel bearings were replaced about 50k miles ago, and they feel fine.
Front wheel bearings feel perfectly tight.
Replaced all four tires with new Michelin Defenders. That eliminated a low speed whomp-whomp--whomp that turned out to be a cord separation in the front left tire, but otherwise had negligible impact on the road noise.
Changed fluid in transmission and rear end. No change at all in the noise.
I thought that the only thing that would be speed-dependent but load independent would be the driveshaft carrier bearing. I bought a new one, but when I put the car up and exposed the driveshaft, I found that the rear U-joint was bad. Didn't figure the U-joint was my noise, as that would be sensitive to load, but needed to fix it. U-joints are not serviceable so I ordered rebuilt driveshaft which came with a new carrier bearing. Put that in today. Absolutely no change in the noise.
Tranny tail shaft bearing felt tight when I was replacing driveshaft, and no sign of oil leak from there.
All four rear CV joints feel tight, and in any event, noise from those would be load-dependent.
I have been searching the web, and rear shock mounts are often mentioned as possible suspects for road noise, but people rarely post what their problem turned out to be, and I would think that noise from failed shock mounts would be very road surface dependent.
I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.
I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.
Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had
I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
My late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?
I've put exactly 10,075 miles on my GTI as of this writing. The DSG tranny performs very well, and shifts as smoothly as ever.
However - I have recently started noticing gear whine from the DSG. Now, this isn't a subject I'm unfamiliar with, since I had the DSG in my MK6 replaced at about 15k miles after it developed an eerily similar whine, especially in 1st gear. The MK7 whines in almost every gear from about 1500 - 4000 RPM, during both acceleration and deceleration at light to moderate throttle. Granted, it's not all that noticeable with the radio on/if you're not listening for it. What concerns me, however, is that although I'm fairly sure the whine existed in 1st gear since the car was new, I don't remember it happening in all other gears.
Additionally, there is a fair bit of what sounds like flywheel chatter in Park/Neutral. This noise has also gotten progressively worse since I took delivery.
So I have the dreaded rear diff whine, which started about a month (1000 miles) ago. I've read a bunch of the past posts, but still can't find a solution other than a) live with it, or b) spend $3500 for a whole new diff. (95k miles - no warranty) It seems the general consensus is that the problem stems from a loosened pinion nut. Is there no way to just tighten the nut? Or if I do will the whine continue because the gears are now worn? BTW I just had all the diff and tranny fluids changed. Made no difference.
View 14 RepliesHad my first drive with the windows down for a long time and noticed a new medium to high pitched whine, stays relative to engine speed. Not the turbo, its much louder than that, i searched about the water pump issues and no one seemed to mention any associated noise, just coolant on the driveway. Waterpump? Alternator?
View 5 RepliesTitle says it all. I was on my way to grab dinner, stopped at a light and heard it. At first, I thought it was a car next to me. Then it kept on going, and my CEL came on. I pulled over, shut off the car, popped the hood.
Temp normal, no smoke, restarted and watched the engine. Rough idle, and it appears to be bucking. Sounds like belt noise, not sure what is going on..
I've got an 02 Camry with the 2.4l 4, it's got a whistling sound from the engine that isn't ground-speed or engine-speed dependent, it's triggered by specific throttle positions...
Because of this, I'm 99.9% sure it's simply air whistling over the throttle plate at certain angles (my old 88 ford station wagon's throttle screamed like a banshee when the cruise was set to 78kph on level ground) but I thought I'd ask in here in case any variable cam timing system or something that can cause similar noises.
The noise has been there as long as I can remember, but it made me wonder the other day when I had my windows down (been trying to limit AC use to save fuel unless it's *really* hot) and heard it reflecting off passing traffic; Wouldn't Toyota have noticed something that loud and done something about it in an engine design?
I recently noticed that my Golf R was making a strange high pitched whine and it seemed like there was no boost. I took my car to the dealer, and it turns out that part of the CAI broke off (a mounting component) and made its way into the turbo, effectively destroying it.
My dealer was initially intending to cover the turbo under warranty (prior to investigation), but now that it is clear that a failure in the CAI caused the issue, they cannot (obviously) cover it under VW warranty. Unitronic CAI failure led to turbo failure.
The serviced manager did some research prior to getting back with me, and was somewhat puzzled since the Unitronic CAI displayed on their website looked slightly different from mine in that the component that failed was not there. The service manager called Unitronic and learned that the failed component was a known issue (it had apparently failed before), and thus they modified the design - hence the picture of the revised version did not match the older version that was installed on my Golf R. The Unitronic rep offered to replace the CAI - but did not mention anything about the failed turbo (when he spoke to the service manager).
I found the following thread which illustrates that this was a known issue: [URL] .... I just wish I had found out about this before it failed.
I notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
View 13 RepliesWhen I push down the clutch there is an annoying whining noise. I can be at a stop or driving and either way it does it. It goes away when I let the clutch up. 04 GLi 1.8T 6 Speed. Has the Valeo Single Mass clutch conversion.
View 4 RepliesI get a whine when I'm driving hard under low speeds and accelerating (only when really aggressive). Is this cause for concern? Haldex whine I'm assuming?
View 3 RepliesJust recently replaced timing chains and clutch on a 2000 VR6, now I have a bit of drive-case whine but in 3rd & 4th gear only? Replaced throw out bearing with new and sachs clutch, Are my transmission bolts too tight or something?
View 2 Replies