Golf IV R32 :: Puddle Light In The Corner Of Driver Door Won't Come On
Aug 21, 2014
Trying to figure out what ELSE it could be.
Car just rolled 60K. Only odd thing going on is that the "puddle light" down in the corner of the driver's door will not come on. Ever. Bulb is okay. It won't even come on when the passenger door is opened, which I totally don't get. I mean, if the driver's door lock is toast, what's going on with that? My logic tells me that if the driver's door lock is the cause here, opening the other door would light that light.
No weird alarm behavior, no re-locking after 30 seconds or whatever it is (as though after unlocking with remote that door has not been opened), no missing fuel-pump-priming whirr. The only other thing I've noticed is that after opening the driver's door, all the other interior lights dim in about 25 seconds, rather than however many it is after the passenger door is opened (a bit longer).
My old (MkIV) GTI had the driver's door lock check out when the car was about 5 years old. But it had alarming and locking issues, which are more the classic symptoms.
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My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
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Any spec sheet for installing the doors or aligning them. I have been having a problem with the driver's door not sitting properly at the bottom left corner along the A pillar. This causes the first part of the triple seal system [the Touareg has] to be compromised, thus letting in water if submerged.
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So today got in the car and drove to school as normal and parked in the garage locked the car and went my way. Came back to the car and usually when you unlock the car the puddle lights come on as well, the drivers side puddle light did not come on but the passengers side did.
-I have changed my puddle lights to LED
- it was raining pretty heavily during my commute this morning.
later on as I was going to take the mirror apart to check the bulb I tested it once more and the bulb was working again and its been fine since. very weird. What it could have been? could there possibly be water getting in the housing? I checked and everything seems pretty tightly sealed after putting the mirror back together and no condensation or anything inside from what I can see.
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Changing the LED on the JDM side mirrors for the Puddle Light or Illuminated Door Sills. I wanted to go with Black Light inside the cockpit and puddle light and sills.
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So my passenger puddle light is brighter than my driver side. I switch bulb and still the same. Is there a fuse or short or something in the car. Don't know what to do.
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I walked out to my car and there was a big puddle of tran fluid under driver side front. I think it might be from the drain plug.
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I get in the car and the light is off. I open the drivers side door and the light wont go on. I am driving and open the door no warning no light. Where the sensor is for the door? I don't have a bently. How to trouble shoot this or diag it?
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This is the first winter with my LED tails installed, and notice that I get varying amounts of moisture on the inside of each corner light lens. It makes me a bit worried that this will eventually cause a short or destroy a light in my not-so-cheap tails.
It comes and goes based on relative humidity, temp, and precipitation - but isn't necessarily worse when raining. It's almost like the larger the delta between a higher cabin temp and colder outside temp on a "humid" day generates the most moisture.
I have checked the "bulb access" on each corner and the weatherstripping is intact and appears to make solid contact when tightened down.
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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Have had this Prius for a few weeks and noticed right off the bat that there was a very bad noise/rattle over rough roads or upon hitting those street bump thingy's. I was 99% sure it was under the dashboard driver side corner.
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I looked at a 99 with a 5.0 and noticed a puddle on the driver side, a little below and inboard of the power steering pump but outboard of the water pump. The puddle was higher than the water pump weep hole and it was in a racetrack oval shape. I was unable to see where the leak originated and I couldn't tell exactly what part/housing the puddle was sitting on. Obviously, the leak had originated from above.
I don't think it was coming from the upper radiator hose as I remember the upper radiator hose being more on the passenger side and I don't recall any heater hoses in the area. The only things that came to mind as the potential leak source were the intake manifold and the sensors on it. Are the 5.0 intakes prone to coolant leaks? Other than hoses, what else would be leaking coolant on the driver side?
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The door molding has come loose at the front corners of both my doors on my 2002 S-10 pickup. I tried weldwood contact cement (the kind you use on laminating Formica counter tops), but it only lasted a couple of days. I put a spot of super glue on it to see if that might work. It looks promising but that little spot that I tried was not enough surface area to hold it for more than a day. I don't want to ruin the trim by super gluing the whole thing if it won't work. How to do this? The trim seems fine otherwise. It is not cracking or anything like that. I think super glue would hold it if I glued the entire length of about a foot or so. Also the driver side door seems to be a bit out of line an eighth of inch or so at the front corner. It does not appear to be adjustable. It has never been in an accident. It does not seem to be leaking into the cab yet with the door closed.
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Have a tarp over the roof of our Explorer, getting a puddle of water on the driver floor.
It's getting the headliner wet near top driver side of door/windshield.
Is there a drain tube, or is it a blocked channel in the roof that I can clean with a stiff wire from above?? or does this require removal of the headliner?
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Attached are a couple of photos. The first shows the strange black discoloration on the driver's side that is slowly growing to take over that entire corner of the bumper. Looking closely, it may be noted that some paint is missing below the (cracked) taillight. This paint is missing I believe from when we were rear ended in a hit and run while parked.
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Have a water leak that fills the drivers side rear corner panel and the area were the spare tire is located? I have an 07 with the glass top. About once a month or so I need to pull the rubber plugs and drain both areas.
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My factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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So I took my GTI in for TSBs, new wipers, the door seal creak and new wheels (old ones were not painted behind the spokes) - when it was returned to me, I noticed (after I got home) the red door stripe on the passenger side would not light up. At one point they had taken that door panel off to see if it was creaking instead of the seals (which of course, it was not) and I assume that they forgot to connect something, or unplugged something accidentally. Any other suggestion, like a magical fuse I can replace? I so don't want to travel 60 miles back to this guy. And not only did they not fix the seals, the noise is worse than before, I think from them messing with the doors. But anyway, I'm looking for possible DIY fixes.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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