Golf IV R32 :: Producing Colored Smokes - Idles
Feb 25, 2014
Symptoms as follows: High RPM at idle (1100 rpm), colored smoke ( not white.....maybe blue/gray....hard to tell) from tail pipes during higher than normal rpm. No noticeable plume of smoke during spirited runs either. Only shows high idle symptoms/ smoke once heated up and running for a while. First noticed while stopped and idling for a spell. No CEL and have not ran it for codes. Cold start shows no smoke and normal rpm.
Vacuum showing 18-20" at idle. AFR kinda all,over the place....but nothing completely out of whack. Can't hear any exhaust leaks and turbo still spools up fine. All IC piping intact.
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So I started my car today and when I got back in it about 5 minutes later I could smell gas, faintly, but it was undeniable. I ran my vin through vw's recall system and came up empty. I'm going to get it checked out on Monday.
Also on my way home from dinner my radio stopped producing sound. When I tried turning the volume up the volume bar wouldn't move. I was on xm radio at the time and I switched to fm and am with no difference. Then I switched to my sd card. I was able to select a song but it wouldn't load on the main screen. I turned my car off and nothing changed. I tried using my phone and that worked, but after, the radio still wouldn't work. Then about 5 minutes later it started working again. So weird.
I saw that other people had problems with their stereo but it didn't seem the same.
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I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
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Bought lucas oil additive, but have not used it yet. Waiting to burn some more oil and a lower reading on the dipstick before adding the quart of lucas.
Or should I just oil change with some mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40 work?
Engines around 225k miles on it.
Ones moving I notice no smoke at all. Worn out rings? Valve seals or guides?
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My VW Passat 2002 produces lots of white smoke when stop at light or parked and restart. My engine light stays on after spending over $200.00 trying to get fixed.
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Since I'm about to pick up my new (to me) 2012 Camry XLE V6, I noticed some colored dots on the tires and wondered what it means. I'm sure glad I Googled it, because it's good information when time comes to buy and mount new tires. It has to do with ensuring optimal balance of tire to wheel. . [URL]...............
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I have year 2011 santa fe, while mileage after 7000km, i have problem in air-cond, when i returned to my car within 3 minute to 5 minutes and start engine i can smell some source of chemical smell from air-cond for 3 second, why ? if i started engine after an hour then there is no smell, why ?
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I have been having a mildew smell when using AC. I purchased a foaming cleaner that is mean to be sprayed by inserting a small tube in the evaporator pan drain, but the design on my santa fe drain hose prevents the tube from making it to the core. It always gets jammed up at firewall because of a 90 deg bend. Is there a port on the housing that allows access to the core?
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So I swapped out the PCV valve while changing the oil in my '02 civic and upon driving I noticed a faint rattling/buzzing sound. I only notice it at idle, whether because it goes away when I accelerate or because engine noise drowns it out. I grabbed my stethoscope and to my dismay found it to be the PCV. It's not loud, but loud enough that I noticed it was out of the ordinary.
Now, I've read conflicting things all over the internet. Some people saying its perfectly normal operation, while others saying its a sign of a defective product. The old PCV was pretty gnarly, but did just barely passed the shake test.
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I started my Touareg this morning in 20 degree weather and let it warm up. When I came back to drive away, I noticed on the center dash display an orange colored warning showing the 4 wheels, and also the selector for the 4 wheel drive selector knob was flashing. It drove fine. I parked it and turned the car off and removed the key and opened and closed the door. Then I opened and closed the door again and restarted it, and everything was fine--no warning sign and no flashing.
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I lined up all the colored links on the chain with the notches on the gears perfectly, the gears were all in the correct position also. Everything was done, then I rotated the crank by hand, and now the notches don't line up with the colored links. Is this normal ? does it have to go around a certain amount of times before they line up again?
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I sold the VR6 I once had and been out of the car scene for over 3 years to focus on my bike and roadracing. Well I recently ran into a good deal on a 04 Jetta GLI 1.8T with 75K and am debating making the deal final. I been driving it since yesterday and everything feels great, however, I noticed a small leak today. I touched the spot and it was a golden color and had no smell.
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Pulling in to the underground car park at work this morning I noticed that my nearside Xenon has gone from a nice bright white colour, to a dirty pink. The offside is still shining brightly - does this mean the bulb is on it's way out, and if so how much is that going to cost!?!? The car will be 4 years old in October - does this seem a little premature - if it's not a failing bulb could it be something more sinister.
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Test drove an '03 Passat GL today for about 20-30 minutes. Seemed to drive well. Stomped the accelerator and brake a couple times, etc, etc. After a more sedate trip back I looked it over, checking fluid conditions, leaks and such. Looks like all fluids have been recently changed . I did notice when pulling the oil dip stick and opening the oil filler a bit of light colored smoke or steam
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I recently replaced the wipers on my 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited. The new wipers are a rather expensive one-piece design that tends to bounce along the windshield producing an irritating noise. Never had this problem with the original equipment wipers. I have cleaned the wipers with alcohol, which temporarily improves the situation but the problem quickly returns. Only relief comes during major downpours.
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I have an 2006 F350 diesel. Starting my engine when cold produces a lot of smoke. It can take up to 10 times turning the key to finally get it to run. This is not a problem when I have the engine warmer plugged in. After the engine warms up the engine does not smoke anymore. Thinking about finally taking it in and having it worked on but thought I would ask your opinions first. I ran a quart of very expensive injector cleaner in it with no improvement. The engine light will sometimes come on and other times it won't come on. I did take the truck to Oreillys and had the engine analyzer on it and two pages of possibilities (problems) came up. Engine has 110K miles.
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I have a 2016 Prius C Persona. I'm thinking of removing the green trim on the sides and under the headlights. How difficult it is, or if there's a chance I'd damage the paint?
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First & main issue: I throttle on, the RPMs jump, speed drops. I think I dealt w/ this before in my old Toyota pickup by replacing the clutch master cylinder. Is that right?
Secondly, I don't know if the engine of this lil car has been rebuilt, but the smoke from under the hood has been alarming. It smells of oil, and I've seen some spots that appear to have leaking oil dropping onto the exhaust, but the smoke keeps coming from various spots.
I really enjoy driving this lil car, it's my first Subaru and my first wagon, but if the trouble is just now starting for me, at over 210,000 miles... I've replaced a few things, but I've never owned a newer(ish) vehicle (except a Harley), and come to expect to do work every once in awhile. I'm fairly regular w/ preventative maintenance, but not strict about when to change fluids or flush things (i.e. transmission or radiator). Maybe I should just sell this one and move on.
I also hit a deer the other day going pretty fast and fortunately only busted out the passenger side head light, fog light, and blinker. The other day being over a month ago. I just don't drive at night and try to avoid right turns. Any thoughts on where to get cheap replacement parts? I can't seem to find anywhere that'll sell me those plastic bits for under a few hundred dollars.. strange considering a necessary part like a master cylinder is only $40..
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Background: Check engine light indicated a problem with the throttle position sensor (unfortunately, don't have the exact code). The TPS on my model ('96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L) is the non-adjustable type. There are three wires going to the TPS -- a power source, a signal wire, and a ground. The TPS acts as a potentiometer and depending on the throttle position, sends a voltage signal down the signal wire to the computer.
Here's my question/issue: After disconnecting the TPS, I tested the three wires with a multimeter. Power source (5V) and ground were fine. But I'm getting a voltage reading of about 4.35V on the signal wire. It's my understanding that with the TPS disconnected, I shouldn't be getting any voltage on that wire. Does that sound correct? If so, what would be causing me to get a voltage reading there? I'm assuming some type of problems with the wires, maybe an exposed wire on the signal wire somewhere?
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I am beginning to get a rusty colored leak at the interface between the transfer case and transaxle on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7l 4wd. There wasn't any leak less than a week ago. What would make the transaxle and transfer case start leaking at the same time?
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I have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
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