Golf IV R32 :: Power Steering Died Suddenly?
Jan 25, 2011
Driving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.
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After 2yrs and 1mo, my DC power 270XP amp died. I put the almost 10 yr old factory alt back on and everything is good again, except for the glaring fact that I have a dead alternator. It is a month beyond warranty (of course).
Truck has been running great. Oil cooler, EGR bulletproof cooler, STC done in Dec at Ford due to high deltas. I have a small stereo - one 12" sub woofer, otherwise nothing that really stresses the electrical system. I did the "big three" with 1/0 copper - cost a fortune, saw no difference - but that could have been an issue for the alt.
I left a message today with etch support but did not get a call back. I hope they make good on this - I waited almost 4 mo's to get this thing and it was supposed to outlast my truck.
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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I am a cummins owner who just got a 2002 7.3 last week. It drove great for 200 miles then suddenly died last night going 60 mph. It sat overnight then started up and drove 10 miles then died again. I changed the cps and still no start. I changed the oil and let it sit overnight and it started this morning and idled for 5 minutes then died again. I have tried unplugging the ipc and still same no start situation. I plan to check the hpop level today to verify it is full. I also checked the nut on the ipr and it's electrical connection.
I am just a shade tree at best and would love some direction on where to look. I don't have any scan equipment to check pressures. Am I correct in thinking it is a bad ipr?
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2005 Jetta.
I had the AC on and after an hour or so the fan made this dieing noise and crapped out. I shut it off and turned it back on and almost no air came out - even when the AC was not engaged - it just made a weak whining noise.
10 min later I turned it back on and it worked fine, then did the same thing 20 min later. This cycle keeps happening now, what could be causing it? (The compressor is brand new, just had it replaced a week ago, so I don't think it's that).
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This morning, I started my truck to go somewhere and less than a minute into my drive, the engine suddenly died. I tried cranking it again to which it started but less than a second later it quit again. That's when I noticed my FMP on my SGII was at 0v. When I got it back into a parking spot, I pulled the FICM and tested the connectors as well as the relays and they all were normal.
I decided I will be pulling the FICM again tomorrow and I will be sending it back to FICM repair.com for them to look at as I got a new one from them about 8 months ago. However if it is in case the wiring harness, where is a good place to look. I don't think it is the wiring harness as it seems to have voltage at the connectors.
Also this may be related but earlier this week, my Scangauge froze and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it didn't connect to the PCM until I reset the SGII to factory settings. I wonder if this is related?
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I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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I have had various issues with my car over the years but on my way home last night my car just died coming down the interstate. It didn't make any noise, it simply kicked off the cruise, the battery light and oil light came on, and I lost gas and power steering. The security light did not come on and my car's forgotten who I am often enough I know how to do the key relearn by heart. My service engine soon light stays on because I no longer have a catalytic converter. When I turn the key over I smell gas (which I can only assume means there's not an issue with my fuel system), everything turns (alternator, belts, etc.) but it doesn't fire.
I had someone suggest that it could possibly be the EGR valve, but when I went to investigate, turns out there isn't one installed on my engine, where it should be there is a metal plate bolted to the "hole". In the past my ignition control module had to be replaced about every 11 months, so I had two and carried the spare in my car. This stopped happening when we finally replaced the entire coil pack. My car has always idled rough (I'm assuming I can attribute this to the lack of EGR valve).
Over the past two weeks it just seemed to get a little worse, it was making noises when accelerating when the car was cold, almost like a whining and the engine was idling hard. When looking for the non-existent EGR valve I did discover my air filter was ridiculously dirty and the air intake is full of oil. The oil was low but not enough to make the engine seize. I know that's a lot of information but was trying to be as clear as possible about previous issues and what I have ruled out. I did read that it could possibly be the CPR, but didn't know and I need it running again.
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'03 Ex. 6.0 Diesel 160k miles.
I have a power steering box leak that came on suddenly. The leak is coming from around the pittman arm shaft... and it is pouring out. It's not under pressure, it's just running out and running down the pittman arm.
I've never seen a steering box leak as bad as this is. I've checked the hoses and they all appear dry. Is this common? Can the seal be changed in the truck or should I be looking at changing the steering box?
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My wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
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My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
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My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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I was driving down the highway when I lost all oil pressure soon after I lost power steering and the engine died. I have checked the radiator and it is still full of fluid pulled the starter off and try to crank it it still turns the cannot get the engine to turn over it clicks but wont turn over there are no oil leaks underneath the vehicle that I can see. I'm just not sure where to go or what to do from here
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My car's about 1.5 years old and 10k miles. About a week ago I started noticing that the power steering got a fair amount heavier/stiffer: it's suddenly a bit harder to turn the wheel. It came out of nowhere and I can't identify a cause, and the local dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car. (2012 SE I4)
Since it's electric power steering I'm not sure what could have gone wrong here... and while it doesn't make the car un-driveable, it is rather annoying. The tire pressure is still around 37 PSI (according to the sensors) and they're Michelin.
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I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
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I have a 2004 Prius @ 150k miles that randomly shut down today at idle.
My girlfriend was driving the car at the time and I received a call saying that the car would not start and she was stuck under a bridge. Apparently she was at a red light when the car died and it wouldn't start, so some people pushed the car out of the intersection. When I got there, the car started up fine, but I did notice that the traction battery was just about fully drained.
She mentioned that the car felt like it was in limp mode and that when she braked the whole car shook. After the car died, she tried to start it but it would just click, and it showed the red triangle. I've been driving the car for a few miles on and off the highway and no problems now and the red triangle never reappeared.
Past history of the car is just a P0420 CEL which is either the sensors or probably the cat. I just had the CEL re-read and its now showing in addition P0171 and P0121. I'm not sure when the P0171 and P0121 came up, but I did clean the MAF less than 10k miles ago.
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Traveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
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Factory fog lights worked fine, had body off for the head studs recently, they worked fine after. One day they just don't work. Fog light indicator light still comes on. Fuse is good. High beam indicator still works. Where to troubleshoot next?
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