So I know turbos can be prone to heatsoak. Does the same type of deal apply to SCs?
I guess my question is; when on the track, the SC obviously gets hotter than hell. Subsequently, do you lose power due to the SC possibly "overheating"?
97 Accord Lx - 215k miles - 4 cyl. - regular maintenance. It's been my daily driver for over 5 years and been running perfectly.
Yesterday I drove the 35 miles from work back to my town but before going home stopped to visit someone for about an hour. When I came out to leave I noticed a larger than normal amount of fluid in the drive. I just thought it was condensation from the AC and that it was more because it was extremely hot yesterday (100+).
When I got within 2 miles of the house the 1st thing was that the AC was not blowing as cold. I turned it off. Then the engine seemed to "pulse" with loss of power, and the temperature gauge was maxed out. As I pulled into the driveway the engine light and oil pressure light came on.
After it cooled down I checked and the coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. The oil was really low and I added three quarts to bring it to full.
This morning I started it up and let it idle while I finished getting ready (5-10 minutes) and the temp gauge was about 1/3rd of the way up (where it normally is). It sounded, felt, and drove as normal but after a mile or so the gauge was climbing extremely fast so I turned around and took it back home.
What it might be? Water pump?
I have a 1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8 L V-6 with 138,000 miles that has been having overheating and coolant loss issues for the past 3 months. So far I have replaced the radiator (cracked), 2 thermostats (not opening), and the thermostat housing; which is where the mechanic said the leak was coming from. I don't have a visible leak now but it is still overheating after about 15 mins of driving it. I took it back to the same mechanic who said the sealant on the head gasket needed to be replaced.
As far as I know, there is no "sealant" ON the head gasket...the head gasket is the sealant. I took it to a different mechanic who said I have leaks in several of the coolant hoses. I can smell antifreeze every time I get out of my car, but I don't see any leaks. I am concerned I've blown the head gasket but the mechanic says they cannot test that until the hoses are fixed. Does this sound reliable? Could it be a hose issue and that's all?
I am getting a P1150 code on a 06 Prius (240k). Red Triangle and temp light come on after about 15min of driving (no heat). I have taken it to the dealer. They said the Coolant control valve (stuck) and waterpump (leaking) needed replacing. I replaced both of these myself along with the temp sensor and radiator cap, but the problem persisted.
Coolant is also shooting out of the overflow hose in the reservoir tank when car warms up. I just took it to a different shop yesterday because I was assuming I could not get all of the air bled out of my system. They charged me $200 and said there was quite a bit of air in the system. The first thing I did when starting my Prius was to check the heat, no heat. I drove it home and immediately noticed there was yet again coolant spitting out of the overflow tube. I didn't want to believe this was happening again. I drove it to work this morning (15min drive) and the red triangle and temp light came back on.
I now have been driving it with the radiator cap loose so the pressure does not build up and spit the coolant out. This works for short drives, but I've noticed my coolant is disappearing quickly. No visible coolant on the ground or anywhere in the engine bay.
Hitting a diagnostic dead end here - car wants to overheat/drink coolant on hot days when inevitably the A/C is on. A/C fan never comes on. Car was in a front-ender accident about 18 months ago, could be related, unclear. The A/C condenser was damaged then, but I replaced it, recharged the system, and the A/C now blows nice and cold. I've swapped the fans and the same fan works fine when plugged into the other side. I've swapped the fuses.
I've taken a working relay (as the other fan stops when I pull the relay out) and rotated that relay thru the other 3 sockets with the engine and A/C on. Still no movement. So I'm a bit stumped puzzled as to what to consider next, and then a part of me started to wonder if the fan is the red herring, and might I have a radiator issue which is the real culprit. I don't see any leaks. I had the thermostat fail about 1-2 months after the accident but a shop replaced it and this overheating issue really only flared this summer. This is a 99 Subaru Legacy SUS Sedan, the 30th Anniversary edition, with 189K+ miles, so minimal expenditure is the game plan.
About 3 weeks ago I purchased my MK7 GTI SE w/ DSG. About a week ago, I started noticing a very slight rasp around 3.5k and up under heavy WOT. Note the sound was very subtle in the cabin and unsure what it sounded like outside. This past weekend, I started noticing a loss in power, especially after 2nd gear. A strange sound under throttle--almost sounds like a supercharger winding down (hollow with a slight whine)--when giving a good bit of gas around 2.5k and up occurs. At first I though it was road noise from my neighborhoods new roads since the sound only occurs on new roads, but realized that noise never occurred the first few weeks I had the car. No CEL.
I took it to the dealership on a rainy day, so they couldn't see the loss of power with the car breaking loose, but they didn't find anything. I'm bringing it back this Friday to see what they can find. I talked with one of the service guys today and they think it may be a drivetrain problem. Supposedly no loose hoses and is holding boost normally. Any leads to what it may be??
The car has 108k I bought it with 101k that being said I had no clue when the last tune up was or if the coils were replaced, now I did replace the transmission, transfer case and clutch since then I've noticed a loss of power and torque especially after 3-4k rpm car just seems to fall on its face, if I had to explain it I would say it feels like it went from being tuned to stock, I have no clue if the car had software or not. also some times I get a sputter or almost a hesitation from the rear, I have done the haldex service 2 weeks ago, It absolutely feels like the car isn't breathing right I don't hear the intake as much or cleanly I'm wondering if the intake manifold bushings are bad and could even cause this? doesn't seem to pull as much just from the start though I used to just drive normal and the car almost felt like it was pulling its self doesn't feel anywhere as quick.
View 16 RepliesI seem to loose almost all power once I hit 5k rpms. Like I will floor the car and Ill feel a nice pull and all of a sudden once I hit 5k it slowly starts climing like a hybrid civic. wtf? Could this be a misfire, tune problem, exhaust leak IDK
View 20 RepliesI just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
Replaced my cam follower at 37,000 mi and performed an oil change. Follower was in good shape - all done at a local reputable tuning shop. Accelerating on the highway, above say 2500 rpm, loss in power.
Car feels dull under load. Called dealer for advice (I'm tight with the owner, the tuning shop was closed at this point) and said that I might have a fuel pump or cam shaft problem. Car was fine before service.
What it could be? Will obviously call the tuning shop on Monday, but wanted to vortex advice so I could be armed and ready!!!
Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
Due to being low, and taking my splash guards off to put on my skid plate, in heavy rain, my belt I guess gets wet, slips and I lose power steering. I can hear it screech.
I didn't think that would be the case for snow, but sure enough after plowing through my driveway to go to work it was slipping screeching and loss of power.
My car has been throwing a code P2178
P2187 System Too Lean at Idle (Bank 1) DTC.
Checked the intake, checked maf, checked injectors.
Today after leaving show n go. Stopped at a gas station (never turned off the car) leaving the gas station the car was loosing power, I thought I was in 3rd instead of first. No, I was in 1st. Driving and car was sputtering and wasn't getting any power. After a few blocks it sounded like its gonna shut off. Pulled over to the side. Car died, doesn't wanna start again. Got spark, got fuel to the injectors, discoed the sensor to maf, still cranks but doesn't start. Got it towed to NY from NJ. Still no start. Few people said crankshaft sensor, starter, clogged cat or fuel filter. Car isn't throwing any codes now (probably cuz the motor didn't start) any clues on what it can be?
I drove my car to work today and no problems. Tonight my wife and I took the car out to go to dinner and intermitantly there and back my car is hesitating as we drive along. I thought it was odd at first then my wife asked if I was kidding around. I told her its not me.
It's as if the car is driving then all of a sudden its like a loss of power or as if the limiter kicks in and starved the engine of gas and then a second later it jerks back to life and keeps going.
If it does this tomorrow its going to the dealer. It is not throwing any warning lights and I have 3/4 tank of gas so its not that.
Earlier this evening on the highway while in cruise control I had a strange issue. Going up a slight incline all of the sudden I lost power, my ESP and EPC lights came on, and the engine was running very strange.
It wasn't stuttering but was louder and vibrating a whole lot more than normal. I pulled over and shut the car off for a couple mins, started it up, everything was normal and continued. About an hour later the same thing happened and when I started up the car again the check engine light was on.
I had my room mate scan it when I got back and it came up with ECM and PCM processor errors. Not sure what kind of problems this would be. All the searches on cruise control didn't turn up anything like this. What the problem would be? The cars a turbo'd r32.
I have a new to me 2012 R... I have a loss of power or almost like a traction control cut in on right and left turns from a stop. I cannot find anything in my searches. But I am not totally sure what to search on. It is not on rolling turns just from a stop. All tire pressures are consistent. No ice or water.
View 24 RepliesIve been noticing my R32 getting progressively slower the past few weeks. Disappointing as I was hoping the cooler weather would be making it feel a bit faster. Started off with just a little power loss now it feels like the car just does not want to go anywhere. I'm think clogged cats as the exhaust is sounding now (very metallic and raspy) but wanted to check if there was anything else I should check into first. Car has 83K. Any other symptoms to check for? There is no CEL or codes.
View 10 RepliesSo i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
View 2 RepliesStarted my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.