Golf IV R32 :: Power Cuts In And Out And Dying On The Freeway
Apr 16, 2011
It was raining out pretty good last night. I just got my car unitronic tuned, idk if this has anything to do with it, but just to add some info.
I was driving home, about an hour drive last night, and my car would cut the power for a second, then come back, then cut out again. Then my battery light came on and the car. I pulled over and let my car sit for a minute then finished the drive home...
It cut in and out another time or two before I got home.
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My 03 gti vr6 has issues... This only happens sometimes but if I am on the freeway even just at normal speed sometimes the motor loses power not electrical just the motor it will die then kinda sputter its way back to life. I may add that I have APR software installed.
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
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My rear view mirror looks to be dying. Yesterday morning it started with what looked like a hairline crack through the middle of the glass. Several hours later it appeared to be de-laminating itself. It looks like water is stuck between 2 layers of glass. Obviously not happy with this as TOD is just around the corner and don't want to be traveling over 1200 miles with limited rear view visibility. [URL]..........
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So this has happened multiple times now. its always when I'm slowing down or at a stop. I have Apr stage 3 software with rfd. I ran the car for codes a couple of weeks ago and there were none. its a little scary since its done it at highway speeds when in neutral and the revs have dropped out. I still have ignition/terminal 15 power but the engine is no longer running. today I was at a stop light and the car died out. it took several attempts cranking it over to get it started, I was in busy traffic and it got a little worrisome. also I'm driving my kid around and can't have this happen anymore. Without any faults I'm not sure where to start since I don't have factory software.
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For some stupid reason, my truck decided to lose power today when exiting the freeway. D/s egt gauge verified it with no increase in temp when stepping on go pedal. After about a minute, I could feel it gain power. So, rolled into fuel station, and topped off tank. While filling, I popped the hood and started messing with the uvch and looking around. It was then I noticed that darn hose riding on top of a ton of wires. Pulled said hose up and sure enough, a wire is shafed clean off of insulation. Anyway, something to check while looking around under there....
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I have a mk4 jetta 2.0l with about 130,000 miles. The issue with my car is that is has a rough idle and dies out completely when I put the car in neutral. I currently have codes 16839- EVAP system leak detected, 16487- Mass air flow sensor, 17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer, and 16795 - secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. The secondary air pump was taken off the car before i bought it, so i do not think that code is responsible. Also all of my spark plugs and wires are new. I think the issue is either with my maf sensor or with a vacuum line. I have tried cleaner my maf and also unplugging it, and the car still has problem. Unfortunately i do not know where all of my vacuum line are. I have only checked the two the go into the sensor on towards the firewall. The one has vacuum, but the one coming for the egr valve did have any vaccum even when i tried with my other line on it. Im not sure if this is the issue, and if it would cause my car to die.
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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I have had this vibration on the freeway and at different RPMs in different gears and i can figure out the vibrations... its mainly coming from my gas pedal... clutch and brake pedal are usually fine and the steering wheel is alright i guess.
I replaced my dog-bone mount because it was F'd up and got my wheels balanced so those two are eliminated. i know my tires have some camber wear but i feel like it wouldn't be intermittent if that were the case. I am stumped and I hate playing the game where i just replace everything hoping to fix the problem...
Car has 104k miles
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I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
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We have had the TDI for exactly a year now, and have 33 000 km's on it already. In the past 2 months, we've noticed the engine cutting off for a second while driving. It can do this a few times during one drive and it does it at any time, not related to the temperature of the engine; it has done it wether it's cold or warmed up.
Brought it to the dealership today for regular maintenance, they explained to me that it was normal and it's called a regeneration process for the emission system. They couldn't tell me the frequency that this could happen. For our car, it happens at least 2-4 times a week even a few times within a drive. I don't know if it was the same thing but I was passing a car last sunday and while accelerating, the engine just shut off for that second and all of a sudden a big cloud of gray smoke came out the back.
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I have a very common issue with the maf sensor, im in a turbo setup, cel is on due to a maf code, order a brand new bosch maf from ecs, install it in my 4inch maf housing and clear the codes. start the car, and the car does not like the new maf, if i rev it, rpm's drop too much making the car to cuts off, unplug the maf, cel back on as well traction light, car runs good but lean,
And also I do have a code for air intake temperature sensor, and since I am turbo I dont have a ait sensor in my tip, how to handle this? what sensor should i use? cuz i went to the local dealer and they try to sell me the accordion pipe and they told me that the sensor is in there how to with this sensor?
Is this the reason why my car doesn't like the maf? because I don't have the other sensor? or is because my cone filter is dirty? When I plug the maf the car feels like the engine sounds better, but doesn't stay on, if i unplugged the car runs good but fuel consumption is horrible
I am running c2 550 cc software .. I already dis 3 times a boost vac leak test and pass, what are my other choices?
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Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
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On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
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CAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
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So I was driving home from work yesterday and the car just cuts off at the light. I try to start it and it only turns over, so I know its not the battery and the starter. I know there is a few threads on this but they are older ones and was just wanted to know how many of you guys have had to replace the fuel pump. I only have 40k on the car .
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Been really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
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