Golf IV R32 :: Pending DTC Code P0103
Dec 24, 2010
I recently replaced my MAF on the car with part number 06A 906 461 A which is not the 07D 906 461 part number. I take it that this is wrong because i am getting power surging in the car at WOT and I have a pending DTC code P0103.
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About two weeks ago I purchased an intake from a member here on vortex. I installed it, drove the R a few times, and ended up getting a CEL right afterwards for P0103 (maf circuit high). Does this have anything to do with the intake install? Car runs absolutely fine.. no weird issues. Never heard of an intake causing a code like that. Cleared it.. it came back.
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124k, original owner, no mods. Car was running rough and stumbling a bit. A bunch of codes came up. I replaced coils because I had them, spark plugs look good. One code came back p0103. I cleaned the throttle butterfly and replaced the maf sensor. Still same problem.
When I first start it cold it idles high but stays running , once it warms a little the idle drops and then it won't stay running. Then the traction control light comes on and then the cel. I checked for a vacuum leak but came up with nothing.
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2000 Jetta 2.0 cylinder 2 misfire. Replaced plugs and wires. No check engine light but code is pending and there's still a misfire. Need to smog
Replace coil pack?
Swap fuel injectors and recheck?
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My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
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I have an 2004 Santa Fe and im having some Mass Air Flow Sensor problems but I dont know what's wrong. My engine light came on for the second time after awhile. And I got it checked for the code and of course it was my sensor again. The first time I just giggled it around and the light went off. I did the same thing today with giggling it again went off. So I feel like it might be a loose connection but I really hope it isn't failing because im pretty sure that's uber expensive to fix.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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Today my Check Engine Light came on for the first time in years on my 1998 Ford Ranger. It has 363,000 miles on it. But the engine was changed about 150,000 miles ago. It's a 2.5 automatic. It runs good and has no problems until today. I was leaving a shop and when I started up the truck the Check Engine Light came on. It wasn't idling bad but when I went to take off it wouldn't hardly move. I wasn't even able to keep driving. So I stopped and turned it off and restarted it. Then the Check Engine Light was gone and it ran fine. I scanned it when I got home and it a Pending code of P0446.
I've never gotten this one before. It said something was wrong with the fuel vapor vent solenoid open or shorted. I've never replaced anything on the evaporative emission system except a hose under the hood 3 or 4 years ago. I've had to change the fuel pump a couple times. I've never had any wiring issues. I've never hacked into the wiring. I've owned it since it was new. Is it likely that solenoid is failing or the vapor canister is shot? I don't need this to happen again because even if it's in what was called limp mode. there's no way I could've driven it home like that. I couldn't even pull over. I was lucky I was still in a parking lot.
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I took a one owner 2009 with 100,00 miles for a pre-inspection today. All came back in fairly good shape however the mechanic ( an independent shop ) found this error code P1455. I took the car back to the dealer & said I was interested in the car if they looked into whether the gas tank would need to be replaced. The parts manager gave my husband and I a long speech about how they checked the car before it was traded in and never found this code. He explained that the code has to appear twice for the " check engine light " to come on. He told us he would take the car for a test drive himself & put it thru another diagnostic test to see if he could get another error reading. He will be getting back to us tomorrow. The dealer also said we could discuss in writing a timeline for them to repair it if the check engine light come on & ultimately a repair is needed.
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Last year my wife and I purchased a 2011 certified pre-owned tiguan from a local VW dealership which will stay anonymous atm. This past weekend we were driving home and noticed a rattle coming from the engine upon acceleration or around 2k-3k. The EPC light and check engine light both flash one time whenever this happens but never stay on. I scanned the car and found a pending p0341.
I know about the timing tensioner so I waited until the car cooled completely and went outside about 1am and started the car, sure enough it made the star-up rattle.
We took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed it with a failed timing chain and camshaft and are going to replace the components. I'm guessing by failed timing chain they mean the tensioner.
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My 2003 Camry has po301 fault code also have same code showing as pending. Can't find nothing on google regarding duplicate codes . The car starts fine, runs fine, idles fine. Excellent at high speeds I don't think the car is misfiring . Could it be a bad sensor giving me a false reading .
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I have a 1996 Buick Century Custom 3.1L V6 with about 93k miles. As background, I've done quite a bit of work to the car in the last month and a half - replaced the engine with a rebuilt, replaced the catalytic converter (that was damaged when the old engine misfired badly), replaced my ignition control module and two coils, and replaced my fuel injectors as a couple weren't firing well. In addition, I replaced my EGR valve to resolve a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code that came up last month (the original EGR valve looked to have quite a bit of carbon buildup, and was likely original to the car from 1996).
That replacement was done about 9/25, and my check engine light came on again this week. Now it's showing a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code, and occasionally (maybe every 2-3 starts) will also have a P0300 random intermittent misfire and P1406 code shown as pending. In terms of running/performance, if I leave the car in park and give it gas once I get the pedal to about 1/2 down, around about 1800 RPM, it sounds almost like it's coughing, and that's also the case if I leave the car running and go listen/feel at the tailpipe, the exhaust seems to pulse rather than being just a steady stream. Performance wise on the road I haven't noticed any major problems - the car seems to run alright, I haven't noticed any serious misfires or performance problems, seems to have good acceleration, etc.
The one thing I will mention is when the catalytic converter was replaced the shop mentioned that my O2 sensors may need to be replaced as well down the road, as it's possible that they were damaged when the old catalytic converter was. When I checked the live data on my scan tool I do see what seem to be good values from both O2 sensors.
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So I have been chain a no hot start issue. Found a bad top o ring seal for injector #2 replaced the o ring put it all back together did an air test seemed good not 100% sure I don't have another leak. Still problem starting. But I am now running rough and I have a pending p0264. What's up?
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So i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
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1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
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Alright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
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I have a 2002 F250 SD V10 4x4, that just started to randomly misfire [does not matter if the vehicle is in motion or in park]. I scanned the OBDII and found pending code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor). The CEL, O/D light, nor the ABS light illuminate. The speedometer functions normally.
This occurred Saturday after we got 12-18" of snow. I cleaned out the driveway, took a short drive (~ miles) & parked the truck (no symptoms). Later we went to 2 stores and then on the way home, the misfire started. The next day the misfire continues.
I have been searching & come up with the same posts that say the issue is not the OSS. It's usually a bad COP or bad wiring @ the OSS. The symptoms are not the same as when I had a COP go bad (only misfired under load between 1500 & 2500 rpm).
Personal issues: My truck does not fit in my garage, it's dark (and usually below 30 F) before I can get to look at it in the evening. Also, we are supposed to get another foot of snow tomorrow night.
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I just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
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I bought a 1999(b5) passat, 1.8t(AEB) 5spd, came with a DIRTY K&N so i cleaned it with the cleaning kit....
Car drove fine, then: started it up after an hour or so.. it was idling rough, then would spike(17-1800), idle rough, idle fine, spike....etc. just random. it went away for a few minutes, so i tried to drive it home... got 1/8 mile into 3rd... and car just bogged down so i slowed to stop and turn, went to go, it was idling rough so i couldnt drive, just "hobble" into parking lot.... i let run, more random rough, spike, fine... so i let it sit, off. when i returned, it was the same, but now CEL light on...
Codes: P0103 - Mass or Volume air flow sensor circuit high input
P0134 - Heated Oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1 (H02s11) sensor circuit no activity detected
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The car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
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I was playing with my obd reader today and came across 2 pending codes both C0700.
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