Golf IV R32 :: P1347 / P0011 And P1143 Codes - Oil In Both Camshaft Position Sensors
Mar 7, 2013
Throwing codes here.... been seeing the P1347 consistently with the P0011 and P1143 intermittent.
I have checked the resistance of the camshaft adjustment valve resistance and found them to both be around 9 Ohm (spec is 10-18 Ohm).
I checked the voltage to both camshaft position sensors and they are in spec at 4.9 Volts
I swapped the camshaft position sensors to see if the code would follow the sensor but it did not so it is directly related to the intake camshaft.
It is looking like there is a timing issue either related to the adjustment valves going or possibly some contamination preventing them from working properly. They are both out of spec in terms of resistance which is odd that they would both go at the same time but possible.
The oil inside the camshaft position sensors is no good I cleaned it all out when I swapped the sensors but no change. These will have to be replaced.
Car has 125k on it so it could be due for timing chains but I want to rule out anything else first.
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I am slamming my head on this. I have a 2004 R32 with two codes for camshaft sensors. I noticed and replaced the timing chains because they were stretched out and a tensioner was not holding the chains. I still have these faults in the system. I also checked with my Ross-Tech and in measure block 208 and 209, third blocks that there is nothing showing. Both coming up blank.
I then brought it to the dealer and telling them that the chains were replaced for this reason. They have checked the timing to make sure it is correct and timed. They checked the wiring and they said there is a connection from the sensor to ECU. They replaced the ECU but still have the same issue. They too cannot see the blocks for 208 and 209.
They informed me today that there is a confusion of the signal wire from both of the sensors reading 11 volts on each signal wire but the voltage from the ECU is 5 volts. They asked me to cut the wire from the ECU and check the output directly from the ECU and that too is showing 11 volts with key on. Key off shows nothing. They don't know if that is correct or not.
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2005 GTI 1.8t Engine ... I changed my timing belt water pump and tensioner yesterday and today I am receiving an engine code: P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) My friend timed the engine and knew that is was 1 tooth advanced. He told me that is was going to be OK because 1.8t's have a 1 tooth tolerance. I would have redone it but I did not know how. What to do in this situation? Do I need to re time the engine?
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
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Wasn't there a TSB for this? I've searched Google and Vortex with nothing for the MKVI but I could swear I read something on this.
I am accumulating oil/grim right around the sensor and it's beginning to irritate me. I want to take her to the dealer but would rather know for sure of any possible TSB out there so I have something to reference.
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She is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
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I have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
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My car will not start intermittently and I've narrowed it down to these sensors and want to replace them ASAP. How to replace it and it was about a 10 minute job.
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This isnt my first vw but its my first vr6, its a 2000 gti glx, only showing codes for o2 sensors havent got a vag com yet only have a obd scanner. It idles fine and runs smooth until i get over quarter throttle then it starts hesitating like there isnt enough fuel or air...i know that the noob owner i bought it from cheaply put exhaust on it and i didnt see any o2 sensors but ive never known a car to not run correctly without them.
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Since I installed the Stage 2 VF I've been getting the p1143 code for my maf. I've tried two different maf's and the problem keeps coming back.
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My 05 Passat, 1.8t keeps showing p0010. The cam tensioner and camshaft sensor have both been replaced, the oil pressure is correct but it keeps showing the codes with the CEL on.
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Only thing I've noticed is the idling is a little rough but the car has 88k on it so that's expected. I haven't checked the cam follower yet and know I'll probably need to change it so that's going to happen in the next week.
I had a code for P000A & P2293 for a few months that would throw a MIL and I would reset it and it would come back after a while. I finally replaced the cam sensor and I didn't see a MIlL for about 6 weeks and one day it came back. Once I scanned the car it showed P000A again. I cleared the code and everything seemed fine until yesterday. I went to start the car and the car wouldn't turn over.
I pulled the key out and tried it again and it worked. More and more I think about it, the car doesn't turn over smoothly over the past few months but maybe I'm just looking for things. I ended up scanning it last night and it had a code for P2293 & P0011. I cleared them both but what could be causing all this and cannot afford to bring the car in to the mechanic. It's out of warranty and I'm broke and X-Mas is around the corner.
2006 Passat 2.0T
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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My 2004 V8 touareg is throwing CEL code P0022. 'A' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
What would cause this? I found that these all could be related:
- Valve timing
- OCV
- Camshaft timing gear assy
- ECM
Would any of these cause it to burn oil more quickly? What steps are taken to diagnose the whole problem?
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The CEL just came on in my 20th AE Gti. The code indicates a Camshaft Position Sensor issue. Don't know where this sensor lives under the hood of the GTI? Is an easy enough fix for a beginner to attempt? (have hand tools, former bike mechanic, but no shop just a parking lot in the Texas sun!)
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So my little car.....driving home from jersey (about an hour and a half) and within the last 2 miles I notice the car just shut off. Not any electronics just the motor. Pulled over and tried to start it an it just cranks prolly no fuel or spark. happened to have my obdII scanner with me. It says camshaft position sensor(po342). Only code in there. Sounds simple enough. Got a new one and put it in. Just cranks. Plugs and wires were done about 3 months ago and I drive about 40 miles a day 5 days a week. I did the timing belt last spring so I opened that back up to make sure the timing hadn't jumped for some stupid reason. It's perfect. Noticed now after doing all of that there is some (a little) oil in the throttle body. I know about blow by and don't think I should have that much at 113k but who knows.
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My 1.5L 2000 Hyundai accent is reading p0342 code.(cmp sensor circuit low Input). I have changed out the sensor from a parts car and it's still reading this code. I've read it could be timing or an issue with the starter wiring.
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