Golf IV R32 :: Overheating At Speed - Cool Down At Idle
May 13, 2014
My R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
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I have a 1991 V6 automatic Toyota pickup. The transmission has ~230,000 miles, but the engine has been rebuilt and probably has less than 5,000 miles on it. I am having overheating issues in both departments.
Engine overheating: This has started fairly recently. My truck began overheating at idle (usually at longer traffic lights) and would cool down again once I began driving. My coolant was low, I took it to a shop, and they fixed a small leak. Fast forward a few weeks and it happened again, and this time when I turned on my heat full blast to take heat off the engine it blew cool air until I started driving. Took it back, they found no more leaks, and couldn't duplicate the overheating symptoms. They also said the fan and thermostat seemed to be working fine. It seems to happen sporadically, regardless of coolant levels.
Transmission overheating: Firstly, my truck tends to delay/hard shift when I first start it in the morning. Once the engine warms up it goes away for the most part. I took it on a 100 mile trip camping on a fairly curvy/hilly forest highway and the A/T Oil Temp light came on. This has happened before when I took it on forest roads, even after a recent ATF flush. Needless to say I had to stop a few times to cool it off. It felt like the transmission was working too hard at a flat 60MPH (2,500-2,800RPMs). A couple times the RPMs were pulsing like it was switching gears back and forth. The next day driving in town everything was back to working order.
I'm not sure if these two things are connected... but they never happen at the same time. I'm taking it to a transmission shop but I want to make sure they don't try to rip me off unless absolutely necessary.
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I did the resistor mod on my fans awhile ago, but just the low speed does not cool my engine sufficiently. I seem to be the only one who still has issues with the car getting hot still. The engine gets hotter and hotter the more it's driven constantly but once I slow down, the fans catch up and the engine cools down significantly. Why is my car still getting hot when constantly moving and the. Functioning fine once at lower speeds?
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So yesterday in traffic my R went up 1 tick on the temp gauge while in traffic. It took about 30 minutes in traffic for it to go up that one tick. I know that there is some test you can do to check if the low speed fan is coming on. What is that test?
This morning in traffic for 45 minutes and no overheating of any kind, temp didn't move from full vertical... That being said, when i got to my office, I popped the hood and tossed the AC on while parked, only 1 fan (pass side) was running, aren't they both supposed to be going with the AC on?
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1.8 jetta... Seems to do this when at idle only on occasions it goes above 190F. Waterpump was changed about 5k ago so I'm sure its not that. Thermostat still needs to be changed. It seems like if I turn the heat on it stays at 190F.
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I have a 04 jetta 1.8t that just randomly started having some overheating issues. I just got the car two days ago, and the first day I had it I replaces the coolant temp sensor due to a check engine light. Drove 50 miles and the light shut off. Just yesterday I was sitting in traffic and noticed the temp going above 190 (which it hadn't done in the 200 miles id driven it so far). I brought it home and once I was out of traffic and moving along the temp went right back down to 190. The only time it tries to overheat is when its sitting still or at idle (after reaching operating temp). which is weird.
I was parked in my driveway and let it sit at idle for a few minutes until the temp started significantly rising. i revved it to 2000 rpm (thinking it would rise even more), but to my surprise it instantly went down to 190 again. my big fan isnt running either, but my friend said he doesn't run fans in his and that it shouldn't overheat because of the fan. also, my top hose is warm to the touch, but the bottom isn't. I know your thinking thermostat, but if that was the problem it would :
1: always overheat, or
2: never overheat.
The temp wouldn't fluctuate the way it is.
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I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
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2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
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Is it possible to slightly raise the Idle speed of our R32s?
And if so, how is it done?
Is there a procedure with Vagcom?
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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The engine light comes on and the wrench. Car doesn't get up to speed going up hills when this happens. One time it would not go over 30 without a whining noise. It's happened now 3 x's in 10 days.
First time the radiator cap was not on securely. Apparently that must have been from the shop because I have only had it for 10 weeks. Which is 2 weeks over the warranty and 2K miles over warranty also. Just my luck.
Doesn't happen every day, appears to be on hot days. When it's cool in the 50's or 60's I'm fine. First happened when it was high 90's. Then today its about 80.
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My 2006 Azera has a most bizarre problem. I can drive the car just about any where I want to with no problem. However whenever I drive it at a very low speed it starts to overheat, and it overheats quickly. It is most notable when I drive up the hill to my house. It is a dirt road and is a very steep hill. I generall shift into 1st to climb the hill. To see if going into first caused the problem I tried the hill a couple of times leaving the car in automatic. One time it did not overheat and the second time it started to heat up a little but then cooled right down once I stopped the car.
The dealer told my wife there could be a bad connection on the battery and they tried tightening the connections and the second time they replaced a battery cable, which was not cheap, and how either of those could affect engine heat is beyond me. I am at times almost suspicious that perhaps I just have a temperature gauge that goes psycho every now and then, but it goes psycho consistently. I don't think it's a warped temp gauge. The dealer hasn't mentioned the thermostat as a possibility and I'm thinking of pulling it out and testing it myself.
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
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I have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
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My '97 Honda Civic overheats when driven at high speed on the highway for more than an hour. I've changed the thermostat and the radiator fan, but it still does it.
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How many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
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I've read that this is a somewhat common problem but can't find the part number to what I need. My heat stopped working and won't change blowing any temp only blows slightly chilled air. I found that its suppose to be a part in the dash that controls this thru the climatronic head unit some lever that isn't getting pushed over correctly dew to a worn out part. What part I need to get my heat back working.
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I have a 2011 sonata gls that seems to overheat every once in a while. it happened first after a 2 hour cruise on the insterstate (rally so i exceeded 120 and averaged +85mph) after we parked and we started up to go to the next stage i noticed my temp was at 2 o'clock (this is after the car had been sitting for 30min or so, off) and while sitting at a long red light it went all the way to right (hot) so i turned my a/c off and eventually turned my car off to prevent damage (it returned to normal after a minute of interstate driving). Since then it seems to overheat when idling after driving it hard.
I noticed my radiator fan doesn't turn on normally but haven't checked it when the engine was above normal temp, when should our fans turn on (so i can check if it doesn't work)? I have 1200 miles left on warranty so I want to use it up if possible...
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My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
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