Golf IV R32 :: Oil Pressure Surging From 30 To 40 Psi
May 13, 2011
So I have a NewSouth oil pressure gauge installed and have had no issues with the 2 years it's been installed. The problem lies after the car has warmed up and oil is up to operating temperature. Oil pressure will surge anywhere from 30 to 40 psi, no other indications abnormal (rpm, oil temp, water temp). I do not have a mechanical gauge to swap in for troubleshooting. Oil and filter were just replaced and checked for proper level.
The gauge acts like it has an electrical open circuit in the signal wire. At first I thought it was a bad sender, so I replaced it, no fix. Checked the signal wire to ground and no fluctuations at all.
What I am thinking it might be since it mostly happens at highway cruising speed is the oil pressure relief valve located on on the oil pump. From what I've read already it will cause the surging indication I am getting, but don't see the point in replacing it since all other indications are normal. Since it mostly happens at highway speed, I'm not convinced I have a bad gauge setup.
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I have a 2007 f350 6.0, just replaced the oil pressure sensor in January, now, my truck is surging like crazy! I heard it could be the ICP sensor, how easy is this to change? And where do I find it if this is the problem!
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So my 2012 GTI DSG with Revo Stage 1 has been great since the reflash. 25k miles. Well about a week ago I started noticing some surging-general lack of WOT power (felt stock) but no CEL, nothing. Took it to my mechanic and he hooked up his VAGCOM and we drove around and he couldn't discover any problems. No misfires, proper boost, everything. As far as I can tell, there's no good reason why it should be running weird and then normal without any intervention.
Bad fuel? Dirty injectors?
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So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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I have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
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I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
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So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
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Went out this morning - which was one of the first times we've dropped to freezing since I've had the R32. Car started fine - but idling was rough - almost felt like it was surging. Rev'd it a few times, no change. Meanwhile the tach malfunction light appeared. I turned it off and then restarted. No tach light and it was idling normally.
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I was driving 65 on the highway to work and I went to gas it and I heard a pop and lost all power. I looked at the dash and my oil pressure light came on. Then I saw a digital warning that said "STOP!" Needless to say I was scared and swerved across 3 lanes of traffic and shut it off.
So I let it sit for a little bit and went to check the oil level (mind you I just got an oil change 4 days ago) and the oil level appeared to be fine! Checked it several times since they are a pain to read. Then I tried starting it and gigs and it turned over ran for a few secs and died! So I sat there for a little bit about to call AAA and decided to try it one more time.
PRESTO! It started and I drove it slowly to work using back roads. I've been driving it for 3 days (very little) and no issues! Just really nervous! I took it to my local performance shop where I got the oil change and they did a vagcom scan and it said I have two sensors that need to be fixed. A cam sensor and a speed sensor.
Also you should know my b2s1 02 sensor was throwing a MIL light prior to this happening but haven't had time or money to fix it so ive been putting it off.
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So I bought my first VW as a used car. It's a 2011 GTI and already running into some problems. During the test drive at the dealership, the problem didn't occur. The car was sold as "as-is".
So on the way home from the dealership, the car threw an error about low oil pressure (I'm not sure what the wording was exactly at this time). I drove normally. I did not hit red-line or do any hard cornering on the way home. I got freaked out so I stopped, turned engine off and checked oil level. It's at the proper level.
I looked around the engine bay but nothing was obvious. I started the car up again and the code was gone so I made it all the way home. I drove around some more and now it's showing up about every 15-20 mins. Goes away and then comes back on later. The error now is "Low oil pressure. Turn engine off immediately".
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The other day as I was coming home backing up into the garage a low oil pressure, do not rev above 4000 rpms warning popped up on the dash. Checked the oil which looked fine and then
decided to give it a scan, this is what popped up:
4 Faults Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
050217 - Implausible Data Received from Steering Column Control Module
U0429 - 000 - - Intermittent
005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 000 - - Intermittent
049154 - Powertrain Data Bus
U0002 - 000 - No Communications - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
Being that I have an upcoming 1,150 mile road trip, I decided to take it in. Fearing the worst as all cars usually experience passing their warranty 35,xxx miles I awaited to hear the pain.
Got a call later that day from the dealer saying I had a faulty intake manifold runner (P2015) as well as a faulty steering column module which created the low oil pressure light. Needless to say the car was going to be kept overnight while they waited for the parts to come in from another dealer.
Needless to say after picking up the car, I didn't pay a penny even though my car was outside of the 30,000 mile warranty. Apparently there is an additional warranty and they were covered under it.
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I have a 1.8t and it has the dreadful low pressure issue, not quite sure if I have sludge or not but i've run some sea foam through it earlier to clean (I'm aware that sea foam is a solvent) and am going to drop the pan, clean it out and replace the pump and pickup and take care of all of it in one go. I plan on using the felpro 2.slow gasket instead of gasket sealant but my question is, how do I remove the tension off of the oil pump chain to remove the pump? i'm pretty new to Volkswagens so don't be to rough.
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I have a MVK5 GTI. A few weeks ago, the "oil pressure low, turn engine off" light went on after I made a hard turn. The light stayed on for about 2 seconds, then went off. So I shrugged it off. This happened a few more times (the light never stayed on for more than a couple of seconds). I finally had the oil changed and they said it was a half quart low.
The car seems to run just fine now, but I am concerned about the possibility of there being lasting damage. Is there any way to find out? I was thinking of buying out my lease, but I guess I'd rather let some other lucky person deal with it if there was any lasting damage. The lease return inspector just checked the car and made no note of an engine problem, and it has also been appraised a couple of times for trade in purposes. The trade in appraisals made no mention of a problem either.
Finally, how bad is it to be driving around a half quart low.
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So ive been having some problems recently with my oil pressure light going on and off while driving the car, it usually only stays on for a few seconds then goes away. I'm thinking its just the sensor going bad.
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Last night I went to the bowling lanes with some work friends (didn't do so hot). When I went to leave and start the car... well, the R wouldn't start. There was plenty of power and I could tell it wanted to go, but the engine just wouldn't turn over. After a few tries the monitor gave a "STOP! Oil pressure Engine off!" display. I'm not sure what the deal is. The car just turned 10k miles and there is plenty of oil in the engine.
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Just bought a R32 from a dealer. The low tire pressure indicator is on, but when I check the PSI it's good in all 4 tires. The dealer told me they let all the air out of the tires and fill them with N2 so it take awhile for the indicator to shut off. Is this true or is there something wrong with the car?
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A couple days ago my tire pressure warning came on. I checked the manual to see if there was a way for the MFD to tell you which tire is low. I couldn't find anything. Do I have to go around and check each tire for the proper pressure? If the car knows the pressure is low shouldn't it know which one? Also I'm wondering after only a couple months of ownership why my tire/s are low on air.
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