Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
View 8 RepliesWhen I get of the throttle my R is acting weird. It almost feels like the engine is moving, it doesn't feel smooth anymore. Also when I get to a stop and downshift it feels harsh . When I accelerate and go off the throttle it feels harsh, just if my engine would torque. But I checked the mounts and they are all good. Could this be something with the differential as well?
View 7 RepliesI just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
View 15 RepliesSo I found an 03 gx one owner and only 56k Miles on it. Nice truck. I noticed right away that the rear suspension feels hard and bouncy. When I adjust the height it does work but seems to take a bit. In the Low setting feels like it is on the bump stops. Not sure where to start, sounds like the level sensors can be an issue, so I will have a look at them. Feels like it is just going to the top height to me thus making the ride really stiff. I climbed onto the rear bumper and tried to bounce the truck and it is like a rock. Like the bags are over inflated.
View 1 RepliesWhat could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 4 RepliesPosting this because I saw many other owners with the same problem. Basically after warming up DSG every time clunk into 6th gear on light throttle and D mode, speed around 50kmh rpm around 1400.
You can hear it and feel it on pedal a little. Sometimes is not so harsh sometimes its big clunk. Of course it did on manual mode too if you try shift in the same position.
Original thread here: [URL] ....
Its well known that DSG D mode is set to shift early for better fuel economy but this is not good and really annoying.
I have same problem and its not mechatronic related mine was replaced do to jerkiness on 2 gear and clunking into 6th it is the same.
So I know that fix could be DSG tune/reprogram that many company offer. D mode is optimized and shifting moved to "normal" rpms. A lot of you don't have even problem because your its already flashed with combo etc.
But in my area no body offer DSG tune and i really don't know how to solve this problem... don't want to replace whole gearbox because in all other ways works ok.
I have 2012 MU with i think lastest SW and it didnt change anything on this.
I had heard clunking when hard accelerating or hard stopping my 2003 Explorer, also heard it from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected u-joints, was correct, those were replaced.
After I received my car back I noticed the clunk was louder when hard accelerating or hard stopping; again from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected rear differential. I called my mechanic who said they noticed some play in the rear end - a little loose, that the noise would be noticeable...but that if it were him he wouldn't worry about it. He said the drive shaft was tight, that I wasn't in danger of it falling out, etc.
These are the only symptoms I have that something is wrong with the SUV. Just that clunk. If I come off slow from a stop and not hit the gas, there is no clunk. If I do not hard stop, again I can avoid the clunk. The vehicle does not vibrate or make noise on the freeway, shifts well between gears.
I was going to have my mechanic open the rear end up and see what needed to be replaced when the cold weather brakes. In the meantime, is there anything I need to be keeping an eye on, or something else I should check? My mechanic said the checked it over and couldn't find any other problems. I just want to be prepared for expenses.
It's a 2W, not 4WD. I had all the fluids done, a drain and refill on rear. Not sure if that's important to know or not.
Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
I have the same clunk others have suggested may be strut mounts or something. It only happens when I'm turning hard left and going slow. it may happen only when I'm going slow because it's the only time i turn the wheel that much. it's not too loud and sounds like it's coming from the right front wheel well, somewhere around there.
It started about 3 days ago and is getting much more frequent in the last day. It now is happening every time i turn the wheel hard left, and occasionally when I turn right.I have a loose bumper right front also. it's going into the body shop next week to further diagnose by elimination.
QUESTION: is the car safe to drive if there's the possibility of a loose strut mount? i don't know too much about the suspension assembly.
Just did pretty much the whole front end suspension on my GTI. struts, bearings, mounts. control arm bushings. ball joints, tie rod ends. sway bar bushings and end links. Drove across the country and a clunk showed up. (most recent work was sway bar links and bushings).
I get a pretty hard clunk, usually when the right side goes over a bump (not always), and sometimes when the whole front end goes over a bump. Sounds like it is coming from the right side. You can feel it in the floor sometimes.
I went to the metal end links, maybe they are no good? I figure it's either them, or the axle on that side is binding sometimes. Boot on axle is fine though.
I have 46k on stock suspension and lately I have been hearing a clunking sound when hitting bumps. It sounds like it is coming from the strut mounts and the ride has been harsh compared to when the car was newer. There isn't any bounciness and I thing the shocks/struts are fine. I push down on the body and no bounciness when I let up. Could my strut mounts be shot already?
View 6 RepliesAs I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius 5 and before I took it into service the car started acting weird. At slow speeds it would be in like ev mode and when I would push on the throttle it would kinda lag and almost feel like the car was gonna die out but it didn't. It would only happen once in awhile.
When I took it in for service at Toyota I mentioned the problem and they couldn't find anything wrong. So a few days later I was leaving Costco and as I got bout 10 feet away from the stall I was in the car did that same almost die out thing but the car started beeping and all the lights on the dash came on with the check hybrid system. Every light was on and stayed on tpms, traction control light ect. The car still ran but it ran like shit n the engine stay running the whole time. I managed to get home safely and took it into Toyota on a stand by appointment the next day.
3 days later they call saying the car is ready to pick up n the problem was the hybrid battery (240volt) was no good n was covered under the hybrid side of the warranty which is 8 years/180,000miles. Btw the car has 64,000 miles I maintain the car very well I did all fluid flushes at 50,000miles.
I have a 2004 f150 4x4, When I put it in four wheel drive everything fine until I make a sharp turn. It's not a little wheel hop its a loud clunk that feels like the tire comes off the ground. I changed the cv axle from the side that seemed to be doing it but it didn't work. Could it be the actuator?
View 1 RepliesMy GTI is the first FWD car I've had since 1985, so the issue that I'm having may be just me adapting to a front drive platform. Here's what's happening: when I nail the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, on or about 4K rpm or above, the car feels as if it's hesitating slightly as the revs climb.
It accelerates fiercely (I have the JB1, and I had the Neuspeed Power Module before it, and it's reacted the same way with each mod), and it's almost as if the front end of the car is lifting and struggling for traction (although the traction control light doesn't come on).
Is what I'm experiencing normal FWD behavior? Is it the beginning of torque steer? I only notice this at full throttle--not noticeable at all at partial throttle. Also, it doesn't happen consistently. My car is a performance package manual.
So i have been hearing a whistle under acceleration for some time. Normally comes at 1/2 to full throttle. I also have had check engine light for a bad o2 sensor for about the same amount of time(2months). Fast forward to last week. finally replaced sensor. Check engine is gone. Open her up a little on and on ramp, Whistle is still there and the CEL comes back. Have it scanned, and it come back load calculation cross check 17551. I need an sticker so i rest the ecu (no light) and drove it like a grandma 50miles to get the sticker. No CEL. Get sticker. Just to make sure i wasn't crazy i gave her some gas on the way out of the inspection lot, and there is the CEL.
In conclusion, Between the whistle, CEL, and the fact that i drove it 50 miles with out the CEL coming back under very light throttle, and i just replaced the MAF with a new Bosch 2 months ago, i am pretty sure it is some kind of vac leak.
I have a new TB gasket in the mail, but my question is, Is there other places where such a vac leak is common in these cars? Other info on car.
UM tune
evoms intake
HPA downpipes (whistle started after these where installed)
Flapper
no res
74k on the clock
So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
View 1 RepliesBuddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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