I had this noise since purchasing car from dealer but always thought it was the injectors, Lately it has got a lot louder and I'm positive it's not my injectors. It comes and goes at idle but when I press the gas it stops for a bit.
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This is the same issue as me.
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Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
View 6 RepliesI have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
View 1 RepliesMy brakes are working fine, and the car starts up okay. However, when I press on the gas and go anywhere over 20 mph or so, my car will start, then stop, then start, then stop... Until I step off the gas. There's also a semi-frequent squealing noise whenever I press the gas. The Service Engine Soon Light is on. What it is?
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Subaru WRX has been making a chirping sound for a while now. It only happens when I go on fairly long-ish drives (15+ minutes) and stops when I press on the brakes, only to resume when I let go of the brake. I have a brand new baby and don't feel safe driving her around in the car.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2004 Passat V6, and we've noticed at idle, the engine makes 5 or six fast ticks, stops, then goes again, over and over. I tried searching but didn't find anything relevant.
Also, sometime when the AC is on, all of a sudden the air stops coming out, but the blower still roars, then a couple seconds later the air comes rushing out of the vents again.
I have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T just started doing this... I am not hearing the normal Turbo whistling noise when I give it a lot of gas, however I now hear a squealing noise. Sounds similar to a loose belt kinda whining/squealing. I do not hear this at any other time, only when accelerating quickly.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem with my golf 4 window. RR after washing it the window wouldn't go up again it just made a grinding noise inside but no movement when you press the switch, I watched a few videos on how to open the panel and I did and found this wire lying around like this I don't know what to do from here as the car must go for a test for registration and they check the windows. do i need to buy the entire back panel?
View 2 RepliesMk4 12v vr6 afp. 170k ish. No real mods except a cleaned up bay. Was death knocking LONG before I started the bay. Probably 6k miles. My car knocks/rattles bad in low rpm but promptly stops all noise at 4k and up. Makes the noise in any gear but only when throttle is applied. Even does it when revved up in neutral. No CEL other than one explained later.
Suspecting wrist pins as con rod bearings are brand new (replaced for no reason they were fine) and i removed head and no problems were found. Lifters tick a bit but that's all. Cleaned and put back with new headgasket. Shined up the pistons of course. Timing chains also done. <10k miles on oil pump. I even tried taking the shifter rod completely out and driving to verify if that was the rattle and no change. What could be left mechanically?
I was afraid the noise was preignition because I was getting codes for knock sensor out of range, so I replaced the knock sensors multiple times each, coil pack, wires, new ngk bkr5e plugs gapped correctly, fuel filter and pump. Have ran multiple tanks of premium 94 from different stations as well.
The ecu pulls timing back to 0 btdc and it is still knocking so I just decided that the knock sensors are picking up a mechanical knock rather than pinging. Only thing left is wrist pins or piston slap. Maybe injectors causing a lean condition?
Here's a pic of my car for attention ....
02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
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I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
View 10 RepliesMy 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
View 3 RepliesNot sure if it did it last summer, but I have noticed that with the AC on when I come to a stop the RPM drops to right around 500 for a second and car has a light shudder (no doubt from the RPM being too low). Since it is only with AC on and for such a short time, is this a sign of something out of whack, or is it normal?
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2009 PT Cruiser which now has 38,000 miles on it. When I sit in idle, at a stop light or anywhere else, the car begins to go through a cycle where it is at about .75 RPMS (On the dial) for about 15econds, then all of a sudden I'll feel my car shake and the RPM's fall to just below .5 and then it shakes again and kicks up to 1 RPM before settling back down to .75. This cycle repeats until I move. Also, after the first "shake" the AC on my car goes out, spitting out warm air until I begin moving again. (Not good in TEXAS heat) This happens EVERY TIME the car goes through this cycle. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS THIS!!??
View 1 Replies2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesI have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
View 2 RepliesIt is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..