No more fuel pump priming sound upon opening door but the car still fires up without any problem. And yes it was after the car sat for a day or two without being started. I kind of got used to that sound and was like now that it is gone. Should I be worried my fuel pump is on the way out?
View 20 RepliesIts a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
View 5 Replies2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
Ok, car won't start. fuel pump not priming. tested the fuse, no power coming to it, fuse is good. even used another fuse. my flex connection on my dp blew out, rusty had a leak there for a while. in any case patched it up McGyver style till a new dp arrives. I backed the car off the ramps and shut it off to clean up. when I went to test drive it fuel pump wasn't priming.
View 1 RepliesI notice that not only does the fuel pump primes when the drivers door is opened but also when the rear hatch opens.
View 2 RepliesWhat is that weird sound when opening the door on my new 4 door Golf VII? It sounds like something is resetting itself. It sounds like it is supposed to be doing this. Doing this since day one. Just curious as to what is going on.
View 12 RepliesSo, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
I dont know if this is an issue, but here goes. You know the fuel pump prime sound when you open the drivers door? The buzz? It has recently stopped. Should I be concerned? Is this a foreshadowing of hard times to come? Or am I just over analyzing?
View 12 RepliesAt some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
View 2 RepliesThere is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
My wife's 07 santa fe has started to develop an issue with the fuel door not always opening when the button is pressed. I haven't had to use the manual release yet but sometimes you have to hit the button 5-10 times before you hear the click and it opens. The vehicle just went off warranty (of course!) and since the nearest Hyundai dealer is 2 1/2 hours away it would be nice to work on it myself.
View 48 RepliesExperiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
View 2 RepliesI have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
Each time I open the driver door, when the car is off, I hear a buzzing coming from the front (left?) of the car. It sounds like something electrical. What is it and is it normal? Assuming it's normal, I like it because it's kind of like the Prius saying hi and it reminds me I now have a unique (and fun) car. But what is it? Am I wasting battery with something I've left configured?
View 3 RepliesSo, I go out to my car, unlock, open the driver side door... zzzzzzzz (not a hisssssssss) comes from under the car towards the rear suspension. I do not have the air suspension, so I'm guessing that the car thinks I do and probably has modules for it. One of those modules happens to be thinking I do and is trying to lower the car for my entry?
View 4 RepliesFound the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
View 3 RepliesI have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
View 8 RepliesI have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
View 1 RepliesI was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).