Golf IV R32 :: Neither Of Fans Spin Anymore
Jul 13, 2010
I think my fan module might be bad because neither of my fans spin anymore, and my air conditioning doesn't work either. My buddy let me borrow a fan module but it isn't the right one, I just need a picture of the connectors or a part number would be good too.
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I'm an owner of a 2013 DSG Golf R. Today on my way to work, my car did a wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. This is the first time it did this and I don't know what caused it. For those who didn't experience launching a DSG Golf R, here is a little insight. The car would usually launch in 2nd gear in a normal driving mild push on the throttle at speeds over 5 mph. From standstill, WOT, or a strong push on the throttle, it will launch in 1st.
I was on my way to work and as usual I turned off traction control. I slowed down for a speed bump and the car was doing around 5 mph in 2nd gear. I Pushed on the throttle and as always the car downshifted to 1st. However this time it didn't hook up as it used to do; instead, I felt the car spinning its tires, upshifted to 2nd at 4000 rpm and kept spinning. I released the throttle and it went back to normal.
I tried multiple pulls from standstill on my way back to work and the car was normal. What could be the cause of this incident? My car has a stage 1 tune..
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I noticed that the turbo sounds kind of weird when it first spins up in 2nd and 3rd gear. Kind of a rattly whoosh noise before the normal whistle. Is it normal? I thought it was the "noise maker" thing, but FWIW the 2011's don't have it.
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So my ac stopped working, well actually I bought the car in the winter and never realized it didn't work until the summer rolled around. The clutched pulley won't engage and I don't know why. I checked all the fuses and checked the the pressure in the system and its all good.
Here's the weird part through. I put my multimeter on the connector for the compressor and it reads 12v whether I have the ac on or not.
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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It's not particularly bothersome, I actually kind of prefer it but i'm just wondering if its something I did, perhaps a sequence of button presses on the remote that made it stop honking every time I lock it. It just started happening out of the blue and now it doesn't honk anymore, started 4 days ago
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I have a , 4 door, 5,000 miles... had it for over 3 months now, car has been flawless except for a faulty driver side window switch (rattled bad when playing music) so dealer replaced and it still rattles but it's not as bad, that was about a month ago, now I noticed that the automatic driver window up/down does not work anymore. The window still goes up and down perfectly fine...but it's not one touch you have to hold it, all the other doors work fine on one touch and the drivers used to work until now...
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No mods to front or rear lights, no leds of any kind. No other vcds coding was done or has been done.
I decided that i did not want my DRL's on, so i ordered a Euro switch with auto function from ECS. Took out the old switch and installed the new one. Nothing worked right at all, DRL's were still on. Auto function no longer worked!!. So through VCDS i disabled the DRL's. Great, problem solved you say...NOT! Now the auto function, meaning the lights coming on and off using the sensor in the windshield just keeps the lights on all the time no matter day or night, like an always on setting.
The other settings work, so 1 click over and the parking lights are on no headlights, another click over and all the lights including the headlights are back on. So my issue is what happened to the auto function??? No codes in VCDS 09 cent. elect. I swapped out the original switch which worked perfectly, it now does the same thing that the euro switch does, full on in auto no matter day or night..So what am i missing? It bothers me that there are no codes and that i dont have use of the auto function.
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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My headlights won't self-level upon startup anymore. Added to this, the light bulb warning light is lit, and I'm getting the message: "cornering light (AFS) failure". Bayside VW checked it out when I had it in for its 30,000 mi service, and found "non VW coding". Oh, yeah, that. DRL disabled through VAGCOM makes dealerships unhappy. The tech hypothesized that the disabled DRLs confused the car's computer, but the DRLs had been disabled for some months before this problem appeared. If it matters to you, the ECU is GIAC stage one. Other VAGCOM mod is windows up/down with remote.
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Got my car back today from the panel shop, everything was fine except for the auto up/down remote on the key that opens and closes the windows/sunroof by remote, this doesn't work, how to reprogramme it ?
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I just got my 2016 GTI and I was able to connect to Android Auto once and use the GPS from my phone but it doesn't work anymore.
I know compatibility is not the issue since it worked once and I also tried to replace the USB cable just in case. I went through uninstalling and reinstalling the app on my phone as well as doing a factory reset on the MIB.
Every time I try to connect, it looks like the app launches on my phone and dies immediately. I then get a connection error on the car's screen.
What else I can try before I go back to the dealership?
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For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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My R now has 78k on the clock so I guess it's time for the obligatory issues with the radiator fans. My car started running hot from time to time, not constantly. Brief explanation of the issues and my "diagnosis" for each:
Without the A/C turned on the fans don't come on - when I turn the A/C the passenger side comes on all the time (faulty switch). Driver's side fan is intermittent - usually it turns on with the a/c but if it doesn't a tap on the center with the lug wrench gets it spinning (stuck brush).
The main thing I want to make sure is that it's not a thermostat issue as well (or instead of the switch). The heat works fine - I've been blasting it every time I hit traffic on my way home just to ensure that the car doesn't overheat. My assumption was that if the heat works then the thermostat is opening to allow the coolant into the heater core.
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I have changed all fuses and even the temp sensor to the green one. My fans wont kick on unless I put on the AC. Where is the fan control module?
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So once I start the car the fans kick on, and stay on, even when off. The car currently has no coolant in it and it is not being ran longer than to simply start it. I am guessing the fan control module is no good? Anything else to look for? The car has a new green coolant sensor and the coolant res. is deleted.
Also, what resistor to remove the coolant level sensor? I would like to rid my dash of that annoying light.
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My a/c is really starting to bug me. In auto it blows through the defroster (windshield) and the face vents. It almost sounds like the defroster fans are rattling. If I turn the defroster fan off the sound goes away.
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The fans in the engine bay wont turn off. As long as the car is on they run. they do turn off when the car is off.
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As it was such a matter of time, my fans on my 24v gave up during winter, no big deal as it was a pretty cold winter but now that spring is around the corner, I gotta fix this issue. To they change for the same OEM unit that will die in the next 30k miles.
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