Golf IV R32 :: Mystery Noise Starts Once The Car Reaches Operating Temps
May 23, 2013
Not sure if it's just timing chains or what...Maybe DMF? If it is the chains, is this excessive for chain noise? The noise starts once the car reaches operating temps. , video included.
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I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
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I have a recently purchased 2004 Phaeton V8 that has developed a mystery noise under the dash. It occurs when the engine is running, and sounds like an electric motor with a bad bearing or bushing. About 15 seconds after starting the engine, it cycles a couple times, then comes on constantly. I stopped by the local VW dealer and they ran some diagnostics to see if any codes were present. There were none. Since I was about to head out on a short trip, and the VW tech said everything was showing fine, I decided to have it looked at further upon my return. But, later that day I did some more snooping with a stethoscope, then dug a bit under the hood.
The noise seems to be coming from what appears to be a solenoid actuated valve that is probably attached to a pump. I went back to the dealer with photos and this new information - more diagnostics were run, and the tech went to look up the part. It didn't show on his diagram, so more research is being done as to what it is. In the meantime, what this is? I think it's some sort of valve for diverting heat between front and rear or left and right. Here are a couple photos - a distant one to show its location relative to the engine, and a close up. Hopefully I can get it serviced or swapped out in the next week or so when I have the 80k service done.
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There is an occasional noise that happens only when I am braking my 2003 Corolla. My mechanic has ruled out the brakes and says there is nothing apparent that would make it dangerous to drive the car. The noise has happened on hot days, cold days, dry days, rainy/snowy days. It doesn't happen each time I brake. When it does occur it ranges between a sound like a humpback whale's song to a very loud screech. When it does, it is always right before the car comes to a stop. It happens when I back up and when I am going forward. I cannot reproduce it (I drove with my mechanic all over heck and gone trying to get the car to make the noise, alas, it would not). However, I did capture it at its loudest.
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I've put a recording on Soundcloud:
The noise is best heard at 1:00 onwards, after everything else has stopped. I left everything else in the recording, the volume level relative to the engine etc.
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I drive a 2002 Protege5 with about 125K miles. The suspension (struts and mounts) and brakes have been recently replaced and, with the arising of the Mystery Noise, checked by a mechanic as of last week. The noise sounds like a creaking or bumping in the front end of the vehicle, and comes primarily when slowing to a stop, when the brakes are applied or not. The pace slows as you stop. And it is not always predictable: the mechanic could not recreate the noise, but my wife and I hear it all the time.
I'm just speculating, but should we be looking at the bearings, axles, CV joints... or is this going to get even more expensive? What should I ask the mechanic to look at on this thing?
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So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
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How long would you say the engine reaches the full/normal operating temperature?
I have tandem parking at my place and in the morning my GF leaves for work before I do. So I drive at least about a mile before I shut off the engine to make sure everything is warmed up.
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I noticed that it seems as though my Mk7 takes longer to reach operating temp than my mk6 TDI did. My commute to work is plenty of time to warm up (25mi) but I feel like this car is slower to warm up (but faster to get cabin heat d/t the electric heater). I just find it strange as here in MA it hasn't even been that cold yet, so I'm wondering how the car will be wen the temps dip well below freezing.
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My car will start the first time just fine but if I turn it off it won't start anymore it won't even attempt to crank ...
It does have a nasty grind noise before it starts tho idk if that could be related to it or not ...
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I'm experiencing since outside temps are down here in Canada heavy brake squeal in the front. It is barely audible at -2/-3 Celsius, but lower (-10 and lower), it's really aggressive.
One week ago when very cold outside, I went to the dealer, I insisted for a test drive because of the cold condition this day. The tech notice the problem, and we scheduled an appointment for the next week to look at brake pads.
it's -1 outside, so brakes do not squeals... The service advisor told me, the tech (the one that tested it last week) is absent today. so if we look at this and found nothing, you will pay for the work...
So I need to wait a colder temperature to come back to the dealer...
The question is : what do you think about this problem ? are brake pads defective ? It's happen a low speed, regular braking (stop or light).
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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I went out and checked my engine oil level when the engine was cold and the oil level was near the bottom of the hash marks. Drove the gti for around 15 min and fully warmed the engine and waited five minutes and rechecked the oil level. to my surprise the oil level was actually higher! it was now at the top of the hash marks. if I added oil when the engine was cold I would've over filled my engine. I always thought it was the other way around with a cold engine all the oil would have drained back to the oil pan and should read higher when cold. Why the oil level reads higher when the engine is at normal operating temperature?
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I have 2000 Jetta 1.8t. Over the last few weeks it idles wierd when up to full operating temperature. The check engine code is p0411.
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I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
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So my oil light was blinking on 03 jetta 1.8t for a week or so because of the cold temps where i am once my car reaches temp if you turn off the car and turn it back on my light stays off. i had a oil change recently hubby did that plus i had all my fluids checked and had to have my dipstick tube replaced because it broke.
I had a mechanic who lives in my complex take a look at the car and he said everything is running fine. So today I started my car then my oil light went on again it has been a lot colder than the past few days could that be the reason? My cars not overheating at all but once it gets to temp if you shut and turn the car back on the light goes away. My car only has 88 thousand miles on it and we used the proper oil for the oil change..
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After buying and installing the low temp thermostat, fan switch and green top sensor, I'm still encountering boiling in the line and a temp of 3/4 of the way when at idle. My coolant mixture is about 70/30 and unfortunately I had to use a temporary fix of the prestone universal coolant mix due to the dealer being closed and I didn't want to add more water
What would be the disadvantages of running straight g12 coolant? My issue is boiling and I figure the more coolant and less water, the less chance of boiling to occur.
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I noticed that my Jeep has been making a distinct clapping noise any time the engine is not up to operating temperature. It sounds worst on cold mornings, but becomes quieter as the engine warms up. The noise is RPM dependent, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine. The noise is not audible when the engine is idling in park, but quickly shows up as soon as I put the car in gear and add gas. My father and I think that a slightly loose rocker might be the cause of the noise, but we're not sure. A mechanic friend of his told him that our jeep has self adjusting rockers so it can't really be fixed without replacing it. I've never heard of such a thing so I'm having a hard time believing it. The really confusing part is that it only makes noise when the car is in gear and the engine is under stress, making no noise when it's just idling, even when the engine is revved. Since purchasing it 5 years ago, we have been careful to do regular maintenance on our jeep so I'm somewhat surprised by it.
Vehicle Info:1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo~175000 miles4.0L I6 with stock 4 speed transmission Completely stock
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I own a 2005 Prius with about 145,000 miles on it. I love it. However, I've noticed that lately, the vent in the back by the window will come on and make a lot of noise. Some research has told me that this is the air vent for the battery that is in the back, and usually comes on when the temps are higher and the battery is starting to get a little overheated.
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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