Golf IV R32 :: Mounts Squeaking When Moved?
Sep 21, 2010
I replaced my 3 mounts a few months ago with 034 track density mounts. Torqued properly.
I noticed the other day, while in the rain, if I let off the gas when going slow, when the car does its little jolt forward, I heard a squeak. Gotta be one of the mounts...
Could it have been the rubber got wet and one of the mounts was simply squeaking when it moved? I noticed it when dry but not nearly as much. Guess I should re-check the bolts, but other than the squeak nothing feels different.
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My shifter when moved into fifth or six makes a squeeking sound. It only does it when you put pressure on the shifter to the full right of travel. I'm pretty sure that it the shifter is rubbing against some trim underneath the boot. I'm taking it in on Friday to have it checked under warranty but wanted to get member's opinion before I went in.
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So everything is tight and aligned and all good, but I'm getting this deep squeaking rub noise coming from my front upper strut mounts, but all the bolts are tight, yet it looks like the metal ring inside the strut tower moves a little up and down when you rock the car a bit. And I can feel the rubbing vibration and movement of the mount when I put my hand on/in the strut tower while the car is rocked.
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Recently, I've noticed squeaking noise coming from some mounts whenever I accelerate from stand still, brake, or even get in the car. Car has 43k miles and is a CPO. I'm pretty sure it's the motor mounts, but a friend also mentioned subframe bushings. Should I take that to the dealer or is it wear and tear that I will have to do myself?
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I was leaving a parking lot that has an uphill slope leading to a busy road and was going to turn right. There was a car in front of me that was waiting to turn right also. I had trans in D and left the foot on the brake. Car in front moved forward so I pressed the gas pedal and let off the brake. Instead of moving forward I started to roll back as if the car was in neutral.
This freaked me out as there was a car behind me. I braked again and gave the car more gas than before and let off brake again. This time the car jumped forward and I had to brake to avoid the car in front. When the car in front was gone it happened again as I was trying to turn onto main road. It was as if I was driving an MT and was not very good at using the clutch.
I owed an MK 5 GTI for 4 years and never any problems. Apart from this one time, the DSG has been working perfectly.
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Are the bolt and nut holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing the only things that need to be replaced when removing the strut? Anything else I should change while I'm in there? So far I'm just doing 034 strut mounts and bearings.
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
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Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
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the passenger seat in our 2015 hyundai santa fe sport is not power but the seat can manually adjust forward and backward and the back rest can be moved backward and forward. The seat cannot be moved up and down. It is way too low and it feels like sitting in a "pit". The dealer said to sit on a pillow but when I sit on a pillow the air bag light will not go off (so the passenger air bag is not activated). If I sit on a book, the air bag light does go off but who wants to sit on a hard book all the time. The air bag warning light does go off when I sit on the seat itself.
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Upon replacing the passenger low beam bulb in my 2006 GS, I noticed that the AFS unit is quite loose and can be moved left and right with no pressure. I'm thinking some bolts may have loosened. I know it's supposed to move in both directions, but that would be operated by a motor so I should feel resistance. I see LOTS of posts related to blinking lights and I wonder it this would be a cause. I thought mine going off and on intermittently was due to a failing bulb. How to tighten this?
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I have a 2006 Jetta with 90,000 miles. There is a low level noise which my mechanic seems to think it is in the engine or transmission. From the drivers seat it seems to be on the passenger side of the car. The noise is there when the car is stopped or moving. It seems more pronounced when you you give the engine gas. I hear it at 1000 RPMs and above, although the mechanic can here it on the rack. The sound is a pulsating un un un. If you have ever heard a fountain pump when the water is to low to pump, it is a similar sound. The engine and the transmission seem to work normal. could this be a bad oil filter. The filter is not a VW.
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This morning as I was heading for work out of the blue my driver's seat moved completely back while in motion, and moving mirrors. It was kind of dangerous.
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I have a 2010 Elantra GLS with a loose steering wheel. When you hold the wheel, it can be moved about 1/2 inch up, down, left or right. The issue appears to be in the column, because the intermediate shaft joint under the dash does not move, i.e., no slop whatsoever from that point down. The front suspension is as tight as can be, the car just turned 40k. Im thinking maybe something with the tilt mechanism?
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Yesterday, after lifting back my rear seat backrest (40% section) I found out that the seat cushion moved forward and now I just can't find a way to put it back into place.
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I thought I wouldn't have need of the defrost for several months yet, but today we had unusually cold rain and my windows soon fogged up. The fan (not a/c) was already running at a very low setting (one or two clicks only) when I depressed the defrost button. Roughly 15 seconds later, it was like a hurricane in the cabin! The fan moved to the highest setting all by itself. This did clear the windshield in seconds, but it was a bit disconcerting. This phenomenon repeated itself all three times that I engaged the defrost button. Is the defrost supposed to do that? I swear, the sudden change startled me so much, I hit my head on the ceiling of the cabin...
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I recently had my 20k mile service done which included a tire rotation. Perhaps my understanding of a tire rotation is incorrect but I noticed the rear passenger side wheel was moved to the front passenger side. If the tires were left on the original rims as is, that means it was simply moved from the rear to the front. Is this right? The reason I noticed this is because I have a little curb rash on my rear passenger side rim which now is up front.
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I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
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So this morning, I pressed memory seat #1, and it did not move my chair to the position that I set it for. I had to adjust the chair manually. Every time, I move the chair back or recline the back, in intermittently beeped every 1-2 seconds. It does not beep if I move the chair forward. Could it be the fuse? or what could be wrong?
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Went to leave for work this morning and released the parking brake and she wouldn't budge. Had to give it quite a bit of gas to finally move, along with a big popping sound. It was cold out, and haven't been using the PB in cold weather lately but did yesterday and this happened. Is there something that needs to be done with the brake? Thought I might have to get towed.
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