Golf IV R32 :: Lower Control Arm Front Bolt Off From Passenger Side?
Jul 2, 2012
How do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
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I was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
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I changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
[IMG] ....
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I have koni seyup and my car is lowered all the way down all around. my front passenger side sits lower then the driver side.. I also have camber plates in the front. What u think could be the problem.
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I got under the car today to change the oil and noticed the front drivers side is about an inch lower than the passenger side its causing the inside of my tire to wear very badly.
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So I'm pulling the front control arms on my car and was wondering how to pull the front bolt out of the passenger side control arm and if it is doable without dropping the sub-frame. The bolt has like no clearance between the oil pan and the front edge of the sub-frame.
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I just might be out of luck but wanted to check here first. My driver side lower control arm is dangerously rusted. I bought a replacement and was able to get everything undone except 1 of the 2 bolts that go into the sub-frame. The one towards the rear of the vehicle came out ok. The one towards the front of the vehicle just spins. I have read that it is probably a welded nut to the frame that has broken free and is just spinning inside the frame.
I have seen pictures and another thread on here (but for a santa-fe) where the owner had just drilled a 1 3/4" hole through the bottom of the subframe to grab that nut. Well mine is in a location that a 1 3/4" hole would almost be more than the width of the frame itself. So I thought maybe just a "slit" in the frame so I can get a open end wrench up there to grab the nut. I drilled just a test drill to see where I would land, sure that I would be past the end of the bolt. But I wasn't. I can see the threads of the bolt.
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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Front lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
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I noticed a pool of very clear oil on my garage floor. Looking under the truck I can see the lower control arm on the front drivers side covered in fresh oil. It looks like it's the shock absorber leaking. I just rolled over the 4,000 mile mark. I'm dreading taking it in to my nearby dealer. This is most likely a week long fix with how they operate. 2014 FX2...
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All my windows work, except my front passenger side window. It will go down, but not up from the driver side switch. It works from the passenger side.
I did NOT replace my battery or lose power. It started when I was driving and wanted the window half way down, but it kept going fully up or fully down. I finally got it to where I wanted it to be, but after that i could no longer bring it back all the way up. It can go all the way down, but no longer up.
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Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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I went to my car about an hour ago to check the air pressure and add air to it due to the TMPS whining. While doing this I noticed that it seems like the passenger side of the car is sitting lower (space between the tire and wheel well is smaller) than on the driver side.
Is this possible and what could be the cause of this if my eyes weren't deceiving me?
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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Just bought an '08 Avalon XLS (very clean) and noticed that the left front end sits lower than the right. Vehicle has 80,000 miles ..
I have a '13 Camry as well, and love this Avalon.
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This afternoon I was out for a drive and on my way home on the highway I had something give on the front passenger side suspension.
There was an "odd" feeling from the steering and then some noises from the passenger side front of the car. As I was slowing down there was more clunking/shuddering as I came to a stop. After stopping I looked at the wheel and noticed it looked "further" out, and had more give when pushing it than it should have.
I then tried to pull the car further off the road and discovered that it would not go into gear to move at all!
This is what it looks like:
Broken Side Above
Drivers Side Above
You can see above how the strap pulled on the tire, I tried loosening the strap on it up but it was still under tension.
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