I have some low speed clunks and creaks.
I thought it was the strut mounts (I have h2sport camber plates) so i tighten those down and some of the noises went away but I still have some others.
When I am stopped and i turn the wheel back and forth I can hear a little clunk and feel it slightly as well.
Which suspension components need to be tightened?
2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
View 6 RepliesMy Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes. Dealership has looked at it twice and has not found any issue. I've changed brake pads and rotors as well as lubricated everything - didn't work. Brake performance, handling, etc isn't affected. It's highly annoying and makes me worry that something will eventually fail.
View 3 RepliesOn my 2 door GTI, I had 2 rattles. One was coming from the door latch mechanism, and the other was coming from the black plastic b pillar trim. I picked up a can of "Blaster" silicon spray from Home Depot and sprayed just a little bit into the latching mechanism (on the door side). So far this has completely eliminated the knocking noise that I would hear in the door when driving over bumps.
On my drive afterwards, I kept hearing the infamous noise from the b-pillar trim, which seems to be a result of heat expansion when going from cold temp.... how the piece would sit there creaking when the car wasn't even moving. Anyways, I sprayed some of the silicon lube onto a q-tip and applied it to the edge of the plastic b-pillar trim that runs along the inside edge of the door. I guess I put enough on the q-tip to get it inside the edge of the plastic where it touches the metal of the door.
So far, my car is quiet as a mouse. It feels so good to have my car sound like the day I drove it off the lot!
Disclaimer: It could be a coincidence and perhaps the b-pillar had finally warmed up to a temp where it stopped creaking on its own, but it DID stop creaking as soon as I drove off after applying the lube. I'll post back if anything changes.
So I finally decided to look into all the little creaks and rattles that the R makes while going over bumps in the road.
-Wrapped the latches of the rear seats in electrical tape, and put adhesive velcro (soft side) on the back of the seats where it meets plastic.
-Took apart the center console and put adhesive felt around the areas where plastic makes contact with other plastic
-Put adhesive felt inside the aluminum trim & Monsoon radio to stop shaking
So all those little fixes eliminated most of the rattling sounds in the car. All that I need to look into are the driver and passenger doors to secure whatever is rattling/shaking inside those panels. Something to do this coming week. I normally would leave these noises alone, but damn they drive me crazy like it's a form of Chinese water torture. I hope to have no more rattles in the following week.
I have a problem with my Golf 6 GTI '10 - for several months when it rains or when it is wet/humid I've been hearing single irregular dull knocks from the front suspension (sometimes I can hear two quick knocks one after another). Most of the times the knocks are heard from the driver's side (left side) from the front when I drive slowly on roads which are more or less uneven.
The knocking stops when it is warm and dry. My Golf's mileage is 54,000 kilometers. I've checked the suspension many times and everything seems to be perfect.
It was the sway-bar bushings... Now with all the new parts up front and the bushings it rides better than new. Case closed.
I replaced the following
- Struts (shocks, springs, mounts)
- Control arms (bushings, ball joints)
- End links
And i still have clunks from the front end and now magically my left outer CV boot is ripped!
I noticed that my sunroof creaks slightly when going over rough pavement when closed. I can duplicate the noise by pushing up on the closed sunroof with my fist. It's not loud at all but with the radio off and at lower speeds I can hear it.
View 9 Repliesis locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
View 14 RepliesNow that its cold out, my car sounds awful. I read something about the LCA bushings... What to replace?
View 20 RepliesMy 2012 v is beginning to get the creaks. I notice when driving slowly up driveways or over speed bumps at an angle, I can hear creaking sounds coming from the suspension. Can key suspension lube points recommended and what grease to use?
View 2 RepliesI traded my 2010 Prius II in for a 2012 Honda CR-Z Hybrid EX NAV this morning and it was bitter sweet... I just could not take anymore of the endless rattles and creaks that were in the interior of the car...
I know some people had great cars that were very quiet, but my Prius was not one of them - The interior rattles, combined with the rattle under the front that the dealer could never seem to hear was all I could take...
'05 V8 w/7k miles
- the dashboard curve above instrument panel creaks constantly (even when the car is torqued in a slow turn)
- right rear passenger door creaks where panel meets doorframe and where wood trim meets door panel
- storage box above center vents creaks
- passenger door creaks where leather patch meets door panel
- smalls wood strip above light switch is damn near falling off (not just wood part, the entire aluminum/wood panel)
- some kinda thump (sounds more substantial than trim) from the rear over larger bumps.
- top compartment closure of armrest leaves a 1/4" play that creaks when even the slightest pressure is applied.
and I am sure several more I just cant locate
Bottom line, I waiting for an '05 because I thought they would have the bugs out, but this things is miserable. Even the smallest of ripples in smooth pavement sends my ears pointing toward some awful creak or rattle. And even if I bring these things up to the dealer, 1) will they be willing to fix and 2) is it really in their realm of ability? I just want my car to be quiet like it was designed, right now sounds worse than the 120k miles 97 chevy suburban my friend has.
I have a real puzzler on my hands. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a manual transmission. Its only got around 70K miles on it, since i was not driving it much for the first couple of years after purchase. Around the fall of last year, i was noticing that the car would make a creaking noise, and with time i was noticing it more. The "creaking" only is heard when the car comes to a stop and takes off (like in bumper to bumper traffic). So when the car is normal speed, i dont hear any noise regardless of putting on the brakes.
I have also noticed that the noise would only come during the afternoons (after my car had been sitting in a hot parking lot). In the morning, the car sounds normal and has no "funny" sounds, due the fact that I park my car in a cool garage overnight. The car drives normal no matter the heat conditions, but the noise can be very annoying. I have also recently noticed that you can sometimes hear this noise when people get in their seats of the car.
I have tried to take my car to a mechanic, but they can not find what is wrong. (Unfortunately, I have only been available to take the car in the mornings, so they of course can not hear a problem). The bearings all check out fine, and doesnt appear to be the shocks. My father also knows alot about cars, and this is really stumping him. The only that he noticed is that the engine mount was cracked, so we got that replaced. We were hoping that this would solve the problem, as he guessed that the "creak" was of the engine shifting. This did not solve the problem, but I am glad that we got it taken care of. As far as I can tell, the sound seems to be coming from the front center of the car, and not from a particular wheel.
During the winter here in Houston, I have not heard the noise, but now that its heating up; the "creak" has reared its ugly head again. What can i do?
How to remove the center console? Like that area by the shifter and rectangular spot before it? I am wanting to add some felt or something to stop all the creaks I hear while driving.
View 11 RepliesRecently bought a CPO 2010 RX350 with 57k miles on it at a dealer on 8/30/14. Its developed quite a bit of interior rattles and creaks from what sounds like the structure over bumps and roads that aren't smooth. Plus the sunroof has a high frequency rattle. None of these were present during the test drive.
View 9 RepliesMy Passat seems happy enough. Been over a year since I've had a problem. Not even a CEL. My dilema is do I take this into the dealer for warranty work or best leave well enough alone.
For kicks I did a Vag COm scan the other day (last one was a year ago and I cleared the codes ) and I have a handful of intermittent codes again. Mostly the same. Cleared again, rescanned in a week and only one came back. They are mostly Central Convenience / HVAC codes. The one that came back was one of 2 codes for positioning motors in the HVAC.
I know digging into dash stuff isn't fun. Creaks and squeaks and demons come out if the the tech isn't careful in what he does. I'm not noting any issues at all.
I have recently made some repairs to my 2007 Chevy Cavalier LT AT/FWD/ABS/TRACTION CONTROL, has 60,000 miles. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings, tie rod ends, control arms and sway bar end links then got an alignment. Later on a week later I changed the front brakes. The car felt good for 2 weeks after the suspension parts were replaced and a week after the brake job, then all of the sudden the car began squeaking and creaking on the front end.
Sometimes, the creaking and squeaking come when I turn, some times when I slow done and sometimes when I go from a stop to slowly speeding up (in forward drive or in reverse). I am puzzled as to what it could be. I just this evening sprayed some Blaster! Silicon Lubricant on the stabilizer bar bushings and control arm pivot rear pivot bushing.
The sounds seems not so loud now, but the squeaking and creaking are still there. Could be that where I sprayed was only where some of the noise was coming from. I suspect that the other squeaking and creaking could be coming from the strut bushings and/or strut bearing.
Two fixes: When raising the roof, stop it halfway. It reveals a round rubber bump stop that sits against the rear parcel shelf. The bumpstop can be adjusted by rotating it. If you raise the bump stop, it sits harder against the parcel shelf and reduces movement, thereby reducing noises. Also, lubricate all roof and boot (trunk) rubbers with glycerine (glycerol).
View 12 RepliesSo I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.
View 3 RepliesI have a new 2002 Toyota Dbl-Cab SR5 Pre-Runner. I love the truck except every time you come to a stop, the tranny clunks. Also, when you start to move forward again, the tranny clunks again. Ever tow something an when you stop you feel the trailer catching up with you in a clunk? Feels and SOUNDS just like that.
So me being the good customer that I am I called up for a service check. The service dept guy told me that this is normal on all Tacoma DBL cabs, Tundras, Sequias, etc. That is is the two drive shafts separating when I move forward, and pushing together when I come to a stop (esp. a hard stop). They checked it out and also re-aligned the truck since my steering was WAY off and the steering wheel was not even centered.
Now that I have been driving the truck for about 1700 miles, the clunk is getting much worse. This can't be normal! I love the truck but this problem is driving me crazy. Every stop and start I cringe at the expected CLUNK. It shakes the whole truck.