I get a low rpm knock below 2500rpm and once in a while this get triggered. Not intake shift rod, not oxs, not bad gas so would next be knock sensor? I was told these dont go out often so i want to be sure. Also I read on audizone of some having wire harness issues, hope thats not mine...
View 5 RepliesI'm having an alarm issue that I didn't think much about until last night. Twice in the last three days I've come out to a completely dead battery because the alarm has been triggered. The first time it happen was at the gym and I thought maybe the car got bumped, I inspected it and found nothing out of place. Last night , I came out and the car was dead. This time the car wasn't around any other vehicles and was in a place that no one should have had to go by it. Something is a miss here and was wondering if any of you might have experienced anything similar? The first time it happen I was able to get into the vehicle using the key fob, last night I wasn't so lucky. I had to use a lock kit to get in so I could jump it. I had to do this because I usually separate my fob from the physical key so I don't have to carry them. Until this is resolved, I'll have to stop doing that.
One more thing, I noticed last night after getting the car jumped, I was able to drive home, park the car and when I went to set the alarm, my auto headlights would not shut off after hitting the "Lock" button several times on the fob. Every other time, hitting the lock button twice would always shut off the lights.
I have a 99 VW Passat wagon with 140K miles. 4,000 miles ago, the oil pressure light was triggered and I had about $1200 worth of work on the engine (oil change replaced with syntec, replaced oil filter, washer, pump, restrictor, sealant, and gasket). Last week, the oil pressure light was blinking again so I took it back to the same service shop at our local dealership. They said that I need a new engine.
View 5 RepliesI had to change my fog light fuse tonight, no reason found for that. However, I somehow triggered an error code, P01C1. I managed to reset it, but what this code means?
View 6 RepliesFor my '13 GLS, I leave my fob in the center dash box compartment, and lock the doors using the button on the door. Sometimes when I unlock the door w/my key, the alarm goes off. Why is that, and how can I prevent that w/out having to carry around my fob?
View 2 RepliesLight rattle/vibration. Probably won't be able to get a video for a while but it seems to only happen when in gear and decelerating between roughly 2-2.5k. Maybe I'll just take to dealer.
View 17 RepliesSo yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
View 4 RepliesMy 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
Started a few days ago, There is a faint whistle noise when I am open throttle around 2500rpms. It lasts for about a second and does not occur at any other time. It does not occur under gradual acceleration, or when the car is parked/in neutral and just revving. I tried searching the forums *a little* bit, but my keywords just may have not been right.
My first inkling is that it may be related to flapper, since the rpms seem right and sounds vacuum related to me. But, the unit is completely disconnected (have borla cat-back) and the hose is ziptied, so is this possible? I will try to get a video of the noise later today.
I had this problem for a while. My radio is always on when I stop the engine in my 2008 Passat. But lately, the next day when I started the car the radio was sometimes off.
Well, apparently the random turn off was an indicator that my battery was slowly getting bad and not holding a full charge. Yesterday my engine light came on and when I took the car to the service department they found out that the error code was triggered by low voltage.
At the end, they changed the battery. This is the first time I am changing the battery on this car since I got it in 2008. So 5 years on single battery is pretty good I assume.
I have a 2008 Elantra SE. The anti theft alarm gets triggered for no reason on occasion. At first I thought it was only on rainy days, but now it happens in full sun as well.
I don't need the alarm, as nobody pays attention to them anyway. Is there a fuse I can remove to disable it?
Ok in parking lot car is armed but driver side door is unlocked press the unlock on remote will not unlock the doors however I can pop the trunk with remote. Try to start car and alarm is triggered and car will not start. I have fault codes like 00928, 01358. Is there away to disable the entire alarm so I can start it and get home.
View 1 RepliesOK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
The problem started with a slight hesitation around 2500 under hard acceleration. Then it became more pronounced from 2 to 3.5k. The CEL would blink when it happened for more than a few seconds. Eventually the CEL stayed on. Now the car idles roughly with a periodic thump feeling, and any time a load is put on the engine, it feels very rough. I don't have VAG-COM, so I don't have any codes.
View 3 RepliesWhen I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
Whenever i start my car and begin to drive, i get a loud flutter/Rattle when i change gear above 2500 rpm. It occurs when i give it about 50% or more throttle. is this normal? or does it have anything to do with cold start? I have a tampa mod resonator on the car.
I have a video to show sort of what it sounds like, but this is with giving it about 30% throttle, not 50%. it gets much louder, and sounds a lot worse when i give it more gas. Listen at 1:07.
Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.