Golf IV R32 :: Loud Rattle And Oil Leak Near Haldex
Sep 22, 2012
Yesterday the car was fine going to work and most of the way home. It was raining pretty hard and I went through a large puddle then right after I started to hear a pretty loud noise. It sounded like it was coming from the middle of the car, more so in between the main seats and was vibrating my seat a little bit. It only happened on mediumish acceleration, during low acceleration it wasn't there at all. Also the car still felt fine. Then when I got off main road I was on a street that wasn't super wet cause of all the trees, the sound stopped.
Here is a link to the sound, you might have to turn up the volume because it is a little low. You can hear it best around 14 sec: [URL].....
So today I jacked it up to see if I could see anything and I found oil all around the haldex stuff. Here are some pics I took of the leak. There is also a bright yellow spot you can see through a hole. Not sure what that means. The haldex service was done, maybe 5-10k miles ago, I'd have to look it up to figure out exact time. In one of the pics you might notice black silicone around one of the plugs, this was because when I did get it serviced for the first time, someone before stripped the bolt so the mechanic put that around it to hold it in. It still looks like it is on there pretty well so I don't think that is the issue.
This isn't a big deal but I noticed this plastic part isn't bolted down, I really don't think the noise would be from this but posted just in case.
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So my R's been FWD for a while now and I've been thinking with 147k on the clock it's the pump that failed but I want to be sure that's it before I buy the rebuild kit. A friend and I hooked up his vag-com yesterday to test the pump. We got a signal to the controller and could hear the pump run from sitting inside the car but it was very very quiet. From what he told me is that it should be louder like a fuel pump. So we pulled up the voltage readings and that's what you can see in the photo. It's only seeing .70v and normal functioning voltage should be between 11-15v.
Afterwards I stopped at my work and got it on a hoist to check all connectors in the back(controller and pump). None have any corrosion or moisture in them but I cleaned them up with some Di-electric cleaner for good measure. Would a bad pump give a voltage reading that low? If not then why isn't the pump getting the required voltage?
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I searched but couldn't find any DIY on how to remove/install the haldex controller. Is it straight forward or any special tools needed? I know its very tight in there?
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So yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
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So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
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Top and bottom left. Where the 2 vac lines on the rear diff/haldex unit goes?
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I did some searching and found someone with the same dsg rattle chatter noise I am getting from my R (check link below)
My R has 102,000 miles, runs excellent but the dsg makes a noise mostly when I am in gear stopped with my foot on the brake. While I was under the car checking out the chatter noise I noticed a faint exhaust leak somewhere in the headers near the flex pipe. I want to fix it and I plan to put on a cat back exhaust very soon but I really don't want to spend the money on a set of headers.
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When I Let Off The Gas There's A loud Rattle Coming From The Engine Bay Area. It Stops When I press The Gas Again, When I Brake And When I Turn The Wheel.
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Whenever i start my car and begin to drive, i get a loud flutter/Rattle when i change gear above 2500 rpm. It occurs when i give it about 50% or more throttle. is this normal? or does it have anything to do with cold start? I have a tampa mod resonator on the car.
I have a video to show sort of what it sounds like, but this is with giving it about 30% throttle, not 50%. it gets much louder, and sounds a lot worse when i give it more gas. Listen at 1:07.
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Theres a loud rattling noise coming from somewhere inside the center console, where the shift lever is, that's annoying as hell! Sounds like a metal ball bearing bouncing around against other metal pieces. I put my fingers down there and touched everything I could to try to stop the rattling but I couldn't. I did not remove the foam insulation.
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I feel as though my APR turboback has an exhaust leak.
There is a loud hissing noise that overwhelms the exhaust, turbo and engine noise. What it is. Sounds like a loud hissing when then turbo begins to kick it. Not normal, and it slowly has gotten worse and more noticeable.
I have a feeling its the downpipe, but I can't check it myself. When i give it gas and the hood is open (at a standstill obviously), the engine compartment smells like exhaust fumes.
Could be playing mind games with myself. What do you all think? Any way to surely test and see? I am taking it to dealership on Tuesday to double check.
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2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
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2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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Ok, so I scanned a 2006 Passat 3.6 4mo. I got a fault for the catalyst system, a fault for the AWD controller, and a fault for the Haldex pump. I'm guessing the catalyst code is for the oxygen sensors? What should be my next course of action on the AWD stuff?
============================================
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Part No SW: 03H 997 033 M HW: Hardware No
Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2370
Revision: --H11--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000175
[Code] ....
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I drove the family to the lake yesterday and returned with no problems at all. This morning I started the car and there was a really loud rattle from under the hood. I popped the hood and listened more closely. It sounded like it was coming from the top-end. When it shut down it seemed to whine a bit and kind of ground to a halt, almost like a belt was rubbing something. I tried to start again. Now it turns over but doesn't start. The oil's maybe .5-quart low, none on the driveway underneath and no strange smells.
I'm going to have it towed to the dealer today. I'm a bit concerned though I do have the security lockout feature. I also noticed the last time I washed it that both tail lights had moisture inside the lens and my power lock buttons are bubbling up. This one may take a while. I'll update as I know more.
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At 55 I get this rattle that sounds like something loose vibrating off something else, like the downpipe or something, and it sounds to me from the driver seat like it's coming from the passenger side firewall. The passengers sometimes say it sounds like it's coming from the wheel well but I haven't heard it yet from the passenger side. It's loud. Almost like a knocking. Really only happens at 55. I can't find anything lose. At my wits end.
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I have a 2004 GX. When we hit a bump, we get a loud rattle unless the brakes are depressed. Found the answer in this thread: [URL] .....
I purchased my GX at a Lexus dealer about 400 miles away. The previous owner had a brake job done and replaced the front calipers with after-market parts instead of the OEM since he was about to trade it in. I took it to my local Lexus dealer who told me the anti-rattle spring "wasn't as beefy" as the OEM version and that's what's causing the rattle. Nothing they can do for me.
I came home and checked out the pins on the rattling caliper (see part 47748B) [URL] ....
I found that I was able to slide one of them back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. Makes me think maybe the internal spring is missing causing the loose fit. When I called the Lexus dealer I purchased from, the service manager said it's possible they didn't install the internal spring b/c the specs say it's optional.
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I have a loud engine rattle like there's a golf ball bouncing around in the engine. So far the mechanics have no idea where the knocking is coming from. Here's a video of the sound at idle. If you attempt to drive (or rev above 1500rpm) the sound becomes very loud and is then obviously undrivable.
It's a 1999 Volvo V70, 2.4L, non-turbo, automatic has 260,000km or 162,000mi
[URL] ....
Listen for the fuel injectors and the lifters. Under that there is a low, steady Knock. There is also a louder bang that is irregular. It sounds like I'm hitting the camera or the car but it comes from within the engine! First it's irregular then catches up with the engine speed. What those noises might be?
I was just beginning a road trip and all the fluids were checked. Engine has appeared to be fine for years. I pretty much only use Shell silver grade gas.I had filled up the tank 100 km prior.I had just changed the oil and filter 200km prior.Symptoms appeared as I was pulling on to the highway for the first time that day.
As I accelerated on to the on ramp (with four passengers) the oil pressure light came on.5km after that I thought I heard a low oil ticking so I pulled over to check and as I did, the engine really started knocking and whining. Checked the oil and it was full and later I found out there was pressure. Coolant was okay too. Turned the car on and oil pressure light never came back on. No check engine light.As I tried to get off the highway the knocking was so bad I could barely drive it. Probably should have left it. Got off the highway and called a tow truck.
The mechanic has drained the oil and found metal filings. He checked the timing belt and it is fine and hasn't slipped. No idea yet where the sound is coming from.
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1995 Geo Metro. 133 thousand miles. Loud rattle from engine, massive loss of power at lower RPM, low vacuum pressure, not blown head gasket (ruled that out), going to replace all vacuum hoses, advanced vacuum switch under distributor, and bypass catalytic converter, any other options I'm missing?
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My 07'Passat 2.0T has this annoying loud rattle sound coming from somewhere behind dash board whenever the car was left outside ( under ~55F) overnight. The problem was gone after the car sit under the sun for hours. Is it cause by cheap material VW used in 07 model or assembly ?
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Have been chasing a rattling noise for a while on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl AT.
Here's a brief video: [URL] .....
The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:
Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.
The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.
If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.
If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.
The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?
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