Golf IV R32 :: Loud Clicking / Ticking Noise Coming From Timing Belt - Tensioner Looks Off
May 21, 2014
I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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Six months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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I had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
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I bought a 02 accent base model hb 5 speed 109k miles for a winter car (have a mustang in garage.) It ran good until tonight when the timing belt snapped. I know this because while driving it made some ticking noises and then shut off and when you try to start it the noise that comes indicates no compression so the belt must've snapped and bent the valves.
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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Just noticed this about a half hour ago when I left a friends house, first time it's done it and does it every time since. Sometimes it only clicks 3 times, sometimes 5. Possibly the motor/actuator that controls the inside/outsider air valve?
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I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
Attached File(s)
2012_04_07_19.02.39.jpg ( 1.45MB )
2012_04_10_16.45.26__1_.jpg ( 1.43MB )
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
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I have a pinging (imagine the sound of a trailer's chain hitting the pavement when being towed behind you) sound definitely coming from the front end that is only noticeable when doing 50+. No noise present at any other time....not even a faint noise with the hood up. I was advised to check for play in the tensioner pulley and nothing...feels solid. I did have a Neuspeed power pulley put on about a month ago but did not change out the tensioner. Rotated tires and put in torque arm insert about 2 weeks ago. Just a fyi on what I've done to the car since purchasing in Jan and she has 70k miles. I just noticed this pinging noise 3-4 days ago.
VW guy is going to look her over/drive her on Monday...but I'm concerned about further damage until the problem is diagnosed/resolved.
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Alright so MK4 vr6 AFP engine. I did the timing chans when I bought the car around 175-180K. Car now has 224K miles on it. A few days ago I started hearing the chains slapping around. Because I didn't want to call it a broken guide just yet for tor the hell of it I took the upper chain tensioner bold out dunked it in oil and pumped it up till it was hard again. Put it back in and drove the car about 130 miles straight. I didn't hear them making any kind if noise. The next day I drove it about 30 miles still no noise. Later in the evening I whent to get gas when I pull in the drive way I noticed they were rattling around again. So the next day I drive it back home (130 miles) and noticed they were even louder especially around 1500-200 rpm.
So I took the tensioner back out and dunked and pumped it up again. It didn't do anything this time chains are still loud. But I noticed when I was pumping the tensioner in thr oil both times the air bubbles weren't coming out of the bleeder hole they were coming from the end around the piston. When I did the chains the first time I got everything from Germanautoparts.com. and I notice that the tensioner they sell isn't genuine vw part the only place I found the actual vw pary is ecs tuning and the stealership. Is it possible I just have a defective tensioner? I really want to get to the bottom of this before I go and pull the motor and find that nothing is broken. Should I just buy the oem tensioner and see if it fixes it first?
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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I hear it's a problem on the Mk VI. Is there anything you can do or upgrade to eliminate the problem ... especially considering that it goes out of warranty after 5 years.
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
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Our 2002 Ford Windstar has 78k miles. On 6/2/15 we had the brakes replaced. Soon after I noticed a ticking/clicking noise that sounded like it was coming from the right rear tire. It only happened when I braked and then only happened sometimes. It didn't seem to matter if the car was cold or had been running awhile, if I was on flat ground or on a hill, or if I had been going fast or slow. I couldn't predict when it happened. The car always stopped okay. So I took it back to the repair shop, and they made an adjustment and it was quiet. Two days later it started again, so I took it back. They machined the rear drums and the noise was gone. Five days later I hit a rough patch of pavement and when I braked the noise started again. Back to the shop. They had one of the mechanics ride with me. No noise of course. They said to bring it back when it makes the noise. Well, it has made the noise, but only a few times and I can't predict when it will happen. The car runs fine and brakes fine. I trust this repair shop. They've worked on the car in the past.
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My daughter recently got a '92 f-150 SCAB 4x4, 302 w/ E4OD. The trans needed new seals in the front pump, so I did those and replaced the filter and fluid while at it. Now it runs fine, but it makes a nasty ticking or clicking noise. It is definitely coming from the front of the trans. I was thinking it was a cracked flexplate, so I pulled the inspection cover yesterday, but could not see any cracks. I have heard that sometimes you cannot see the cracks, as they are tiny, or around the crank bolts, which are not visible from the inspection cover. Is this the case? Also, could the torque converter be the culprit? I haven't heard of this kind of noise coming from the TC, but then, I've dealt mainly with manuals.
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