Golf IV R32 :: Loosing Prime - Taking 2 To 3 Key Cycles To Start?
May 23, 2016
The car feels like it loosing prime, takes 2-3 key cycles to run properly. What do you think it is before I start throwing parts at it.
View 11 RepliesThe car feels like it loosing prime, takes 2-3 key cycles to run properly. What do you think it is before I start throwing parts at it.
View 11 RepliesSo after pulling her apart again to clean up the bay, she finally decided she didnt want to start:
- Ignition works
- Cranks for days
- Fuses look good
I noticed my fuel prime doesn't go on when I open the door and the secondary water pump isnt on after I turn the key off. I have an inline fuel pump, so wouldnt that supply fuel if the in-tank one was dead?
I've changed the fuel pump, spider, fuel regulator and checked all the relays and fuses. The only way this truck will start is to prime the engine with a shot of gas and then it will start and run great. Shut it off and NO Start.
View 12 RepliesMy wipers are set in "maintenance mode" or something needs to be adjusted. Every time I start my car and start to move, the wipers move slightly and make a jolt sound. At first I wasn't sure what it was, thought maybe it was the brakes or something but a few weeks ago I realized it was the wipers moving. It only happens after I start the car and start moving. After that initial take-off, they don't move anymore until I re-start the engine.
Is this normal or do I need to adjust something? Just know that the wipers do have a maintenance mode.
Lately my car takes 2-3 cranks before it starts and I'm thinking it could be my fuel pump. There were a few times recently it took like 8 cranks to start. How to test fuel flow to see if it has issue? Also, could a old battery cause this issue?
View 18 RepliesMy car was performing poorly then Stalled while driving, no start since. Put starting fluid in open throttle body for 5 secs, then tried to crank.
fuel pump doesn't turn on (can hear it) for 2 seconds When the Ignition switch is in ON position, You can hear it when cranking in Run position though. So this makes me think that Its not building enough pressure
Pulled it out, hooked it up to a 12V batt and it works.
Someone else changed the spark plugs. Fuel comes of of the line just before the fuel rail. Doesn't squirt like there's a lot of pressure.
Pulled the injectors clean them put them back in with new O rings. Fuel only came out of 2 injectors when cranking.
Pulled the spark plugs check for spark while cranking. They all spark. Put new ones in.
Pump does send fuel when cranking which means the pump, and pump relay should be working I assume.
My R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
I dont know if this is an issue, but here goes. You know the fuel pump prime sound when you open the drivers door? The buzz? It has recently stopped. Should I be concerned? Is this a foreshadowing of hard times to come? Or am I just over analyzing?
View 12 RepliesI'm having a situation here. Yesterday I decided to clean the MAF in my 01 VW Jetta 2.0, so without disconnecting the battery I unplugged and took the MAF sensor out and sprayed it using "CRC MAF sensor cleaner", let it dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then re installed it. When I tried to start the car, I opened the ignition (ON position) and didn't hear the pump priming, still tried to start the car, it when on for about 2 seconds at rough-800rpm idle then rpms dropped and car stopped running. Then, I tried to started it again a couple of times more and I still don't hear the fuel pump priming and the car will crank but not start.
Did I ruin/blew the fuel pump or something in the system? I don't understand what could have possibly gone wrong. I already tried searching for it but did't find the exact same situation and though details might be important.
This is second time that this happened to me.I used to happy owner of Integra with 220,000 of mileage. Couple of months back, I replaced CV axle and MTF in tranny. On the two hour long trip, I noticed my engine was overheating. I stopped my car, let it cool and refill it with water. I unscrew the radiator cap(carefully) I and noticed that small bubbles were coming up.I rented a block tester from Autozone and discovered that these bubbles are exhaust gases.
Car ran like a dream for about a months. However, about two weeks ago I noticed that car would start up with more hesitation(3-4 cycles before it would actually start after keyturn). About a week ago I noticed that engine would also start somewhat rough. It all culminated when I was stuck yesterday with plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The engine shook violently as if was running on one cylinder. It wouldn’t hold idle either. Then today engine would start normal, however, I didn’t drive it anywhere. I didn’t want to risk. The white smoke was still coming from the pipe. Sparkplus: #1 and #2 looked cleaner than ashy #3 and #4. I tested a sample of oil from the engine. I put several drops of oil on the aluminum foil and put a lighter under it. Oil began to splatter indicating that the was water in the oil. I also noticed that every time I shut down my engine, I hear hissing noise for another 5 seconds after engine is completely off.
So at this point I am baffled. I am not sure what to do. I am thinking about replacing the all the injectors to test the theory that old injectors would leak and destroy head gasket while car is parked. I am not really aware of any leaks from my injectors.
I have a Golf 1.8 t 2003 and when the car reaches 4000 rpm on 3rd gear it starts sputtering and can't go above that rpm. it sputters a bit on 2nd gear but at about 5000 rpm but it keeps accelerating. I couldn't try the other gears because i don't have a suitable to reach those speeds (traffic laws speed limits). I have noticed a slight tear on the connection between the hose from the air filter and the T hose. could that be the problem.
View 9 RepliesMy mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
I've had this passat since it had 103k. Now at 167k. It's ran good. Til now. Lately its been having a problem starting. Goto start it and it takes a good 15-20 secs to start. Eventually starts but had a couple times when it started the engine would act like it was going to die then eventually stay running. I've noticed when the car sits for awhile. About 3-4 hours or more it starts ok. But say I run to the store and let it sit for 20 min to a hour then I have problems starting it. Had a local store test battery, starter, and alternator and everything tested fine except the starter failed on startup but then passed after the car was running for a min. So replaced starter. Still having starting issues. Recently I have changed the spark plugs and valve cover gasket.
View 4 RepliesSo I just got my air intake installed last night it worked perfectly until today in the morning,I turned it on to let it warm up for a few minutes then I started driving to work like 10 minutes after I drove it my check engine light came on so I went and got it scanned and was told that the MAF sensor was reading that the air intake was taking in too much air.
View 9 RepliesThere was one message that I found like my problem, but a little different. When I turn the key it won't start, just sounds like it is going to start. I turn the key the second time it will usually start. sometimes it takes 3 times.
View 14 RepliesI have an '87 Celica and it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to start. After being parked only 24 hours, it's the same thing. It won't even give a hint of a kick until about the 8 second mark. Then it'll give a couple of sputters and eventually fire right up. Is this the fuel pressure regulator that's the problem? Is it not keeping the fuel at the rail pressurized properly when sitting? It's just annoying having to sit there cranking for so long to get going. I would think if it was the pump, it would give me problems when running.
View 5 Replies1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
View 7 RepliesI'm having an issue ( happened about 6 times now) where engine is taking 5 to 10 attempts to start after, and only after, I put fuel in! Engine turns over but 3 seconds later dies. I have had the starter, battery and alternator checked and they are all fine. , it only happens after I fuel and I have tried a bunch of different gas stations so I know its not bad fuel. In between fuel ups engine runs fine and never a starting issue.
View 1 Replies2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
View 13 Replies