Golf IV R32 :: Lag Before Engaging When Downshift From 6th To 5th
Jan 23, 2012
The last time I drove my .:R, I was noticing something weird when I'd downshift from 6th to 5th. Usually when I'm around 40mph. If I'd downshift, then press the gas a little to accelerate a little, it would take a moment, almost feeling like lag before it would engage. It's kind of hard to explain. I was wondering if this had anything to do with some linkage problems maybe? I was trying to think of other problems, but I'm not too sure what else it could be.
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So i just noticed this issue the other day. If I downshift from 6th to 5th the car hesitates before it starts to accelerate, this only happens for 5th every other gear is fine. This only happens downshifting from 6th to 5th. What is going on?
-apr flash
-just rolled 56k
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I was slowing down earlier and the car was in 4th, so when traffic started to move again, I downshifted to 3rd but the car felt like it was stuck in neutral. I stepped on the gas and it would not move at all, so I popped it back into D and still the same issue. I quickly steered the car to the side and popped it into Park and it seems to have gone back to normal...is this something I should be concerned about? I've never had this happen until today.
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GTI with DSG has delay in downshift (in D mode), especially with lower gears and speeds. I find it very annoying when I try to suddenly accelerate and the car does not move for few seconds-- RPMs go high up, engine is making noise but car does not move immediately. I have noticed this mostly in traffic when i need to change a lane and accelerate right away.
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So I have read that you can downshift while in D or S mode with the paddle shifters. Is this true?
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Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
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2000 2.0 has full oem exhaust, when downshifting it pops, could this be something in the exhaust or fuel? Not sure as it pops about 2-3 times per downshift. No more no less.
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So I noticed that my R32 is not engaging AWD at all. I can light up the front tires pretty good. I scanned the car on a VAG-COM and got one code under Haldex: 01155 - Clutch 04-10 Mechanicsl Malfunction - intermittant. What would cause this code? Now I've done some quick research and saw it mentioned that a bad e-brake or brake switch, aftermarket tail lights/wiring. I do have a euro switch/headlights/taillights with the rear fog wired up to work. I'm going to put it on a lift in a couple days to start checking stuff out. I just got the car a few days ago and would really like to get this sorted out before my first autocross event on the 17th.
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So I keep hearing about how the DSG makes a unique sound when you manually downshift.
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This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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Just put transmission back in car after getting 3/4 gear synchros replaced and tdi 5th gear installed. I adjusted the shift linkage multiple times and did the procedure 100% correct. Now, all gears work except for 3rd. I can't get into 3rd at all whether shifting with cables installed or just freely from tower.
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I replaced my rear pads on Sunday and the car drives and brakes great. This morning I noticed when I backed into my parking spot at work that the brakes were engaging to the point where I was on a small incline and the car didn't roll at all when I let off the brake pedal.
This was my first time doing the rear pads on my MKVI and my first time doing brakes on a VW. Is there some extra step required that I'm missing? I know the piston was a PITA, definitely not used to having to turn a piston while compressing.
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Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
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Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
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I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
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I have a 2015 with 10k miles on it and every once and a while, when I come to a complete stop and shift into reverse, I take my foot off of the brake pedal and the car will sit there for up to 5 seconds. Then, it kicks in and starts rolling backwards. This has happened 6 times now. Giving it gas doesn't seem to work along. I took it to the dealer today for it's 10k service, and they cannot find anything wrong with it. There are no codes in the computer, the fluid is where it should be, and they think the Neuspeed Power Module has something to do with it. I told them it happened before I installed that piece. I can assure you I am not racing in reverse.
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So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
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Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis
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