Golf IV R32 :: Kicking From Rear Under Acceleration
Apr 7, 2016
So I've been getting this weird kicking from the rear end when I am accelerating medium-hard. It only happens for the first 3-5 minutes after I start up the car. I first noticed it months ago when entering a highway. At that point, during acceleration, it felt like the throttle was slipping. It would happen again and again in about 1-2 second intervals until I shifted out of gear.
During this "slip," the car stops accelerating briefly until it engages again, then it slips again... repeat. However, lately it has been much worse and has changed to a very prominent "kick" from the rear end. I can feel and hear a force from behind me, in addition to the acceleration stopping momentarily. It has started happening in low gears and lower speeds, too. It happened today just turning onto a road end speeding up to traffic in 1st or 2nd gear.
It definitely feels Haldex-related, like the Haldex clutch is slipping maybe? The thing when this happens I don't feel like I'm accelerating so hard that the front wheels slip and the Haldex kicks in, but maybe I'm underestimating the 4motion assistance.
I'm at about 77k miles, and I've read that every 40k you should get the Haldex serviced (oil & filter change). Could I just be due for that? Or might it be a much bigger issue?
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I just towed a friends' boat 1500 kms and noticed while walking around with the vehicle running, I could hear what sounded like a slight humming or hissing sound kicking on and off in the rear, almost like an auto-levelling setup. As far as I know the Tiguan's don't come with anything like that. I don't hear it when nothing is hooked up.
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it can be 2* outside here in the winter and my fan will kick on even right after a cold start.
my rad. the fan kicks on and off randomly for some reason, when it does it makes my idle jump up a few hundred RPM's at the same time. it can be 20 sec. after I start my car, from a cold start, or anytime. AC is not on, as I leave it on the economy. this is in a 2006 A3 3.2 (not that it should matter)
are there any common issues that I should check? fan switch? or any other sensor that might be the cause?
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Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
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I'm the proud owner of a 2005 MK4 1.8t gti, and recently it started making a weird sound when it starts kicking in to boost, where it would normally make a whistle sound while the turbo spools up it now makes a sound that reminds me of a supercharged car, it feels like it could be a leak but I don't have an ecl popping up, it does kind of platoes in the powerband, I hope I'm making some sense ..
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I just got this project running recently (replaced head after timing belt failure) and on the first night I got it running I noticed the electric fan was not kicking in (belt driven fan works fine). Investigated a bit and found the fan was some what seized. I was able to work it free quite easily so I chalked it up to corrosion from sitting.
fired it back up and let her get to operating temp and once again no fan. checked and it spins freely but never comes on. I did some checking and I (visually) cant find the plug, fan switch, or any fuses that deal with it... So I checked the bentley and it talks about a couple relays that have to do with it, but no fuses (at least that Ive found so far). Before I start tearing into wiring diagrams in the back of the bentley, I'm hoping some of y'all might have some input for me. Maybe some common faults, where to look, etc...
Car is a 2000 Passat 1.8T auto. Just had the head swapped due to TB failure which included waterpump, thermostat, fresh coolant, and all new belts.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with a 3.5. A good while back I had my tires rotated. The rims on the front were stuck on. The tech tried beating the tires on the outside, but the rims would not break loose. The tech wound up on the inside with the big tire hammer rapping on the rim. He finally got the rims loose with the big hammer.
As I headed up the highway, less than 5 miles, the traction control system kicked in. I pressed the button and turned t off. The next time I drove the car it did t again. Long story short, ever since that day I have had to drive with the TCS off.
I jacked it up and pulled the wheels and visually checked the ABS rings. I couldn't see any cracks, but that doesn't mean there aren't any, I guess.
Could a speed sensor have gotten damaged with the tire tech's banging on my rims. I'm thinking about just changing both rings and sensors to see if that will fix the TCS problem.
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My speedometer is kicking on and off, it mainly does it at night when the lights are on, when this happens the transmission will gear down but If you hit the dash it will come back on and the transmission will gear back up. I have done so much I don't know what else to try.
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I cannot go hard on the car bc no matter what gear i am in the rev limiter kicks in at 5000 rpm. it kicks the car back so hard that I am afraid to keep trying and testing it. it seems like every time i fix something, something else goes wrong.
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My 06 santa fe ABS system keeps kicking on every so often. I removed each sensor and cleaned it but it still keeps happening.
I noticed behind the front drivers side wheel on the gear the ABS sensor is reading. One of the teeth on the gear is missing possibly broken off, would this cause the ABS to get a faulty ready and kick on ?
How could I remedy this would out replacing the axle? Also my ABS and TCS lights do come on intermittently.
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Took the family up into Michigan this weekend to go play out on Silver Lake sand dunes and do some camping up there. We towed our 27ft travel trailer which weighs about 6500-7000lbs so its not to terribly heavy. Well on the way up we were hitting some hills and with the heavy traffic the truck was kicking in and out of OD so i shut it off. Was doing good with everything until we came up to a stop light and there was a big puff of smoke that came out from under the truck.
We pulled over into a gas station and looked at. It looked like trans fluid was coming from the front of the bell housing or the little plug at the bottom of the trans towards the front. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. We let it cool down for about an hour and added a a little fluid to it kept on driving. After that we had no problems with it for the rest of the weekend and that even included the 200 mile trip back home. I left the OD on for the trip back home.
Do you all think the trans is ok and could probably just use a good flush and new coolant or should i take it in somewhere to look at maybe getting it rebuilt? Im gonna add a good trans cooler and gauge to it so i can monitor it a little better. This is all on a 2000 EX v10.
Also, since I have 3.73 gears in this truck and its our dedicated tow rig, would it be wise to swap in some 4.10 or 4.30 gears to support it out a little bit? I know the v10 likes to rev going down the road but want the rest of the truck to last as well. We are looking at getting a bigger camper down the road and want the truck to be able to handle it safely and tow it without struggling as much.
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The brakes on my 2002 Camry work. They have never been stellar, they never "kicked in" as quickly as on my mom's 2006 Camry but they do work.So I am pulling into a parking spot and I hit the brakes as I am stopping there, and they just didn't kick in, there was a little rattling heard but they didn't really kick in.It happened again today as I was pulling into my drive way, it's not something I can reliably repeat, but it's happened again, and it has me concerned.
2002's are not supposed to have brakes issues of the kind 2007s and later did I thought? What could the cause of this be, the brakes are not totally worn out or else I would hear that all the time...
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A couple of times since the weather has warmed up, a strange situation occurred with this car.
Turn on the a/c...interior cools off normally. After a while being on though...presumably when the motor is nice and hot...the engine starts acting weird. The temp gauge is right where its supposed to be, but here's the symptoms.
Press the throttle to speed up..and the motor slows down stumbles real bad. let up and it returns to pretty normal idle. if you floor it to get past the 'stumble zone' mostly it works right, but it feels like power is kicking in and out, to the point where you want to pull over because you're not sure if the car is safe to drive.
I'm talking stumble like the motor is about to kill. like its ignoring the input to open the throttle. This car has the hard wired throttle cable, so it can't be anything with an electronic throttle. If we drive around and never turn on the a/c....the symptoms do not occur.
What to check for this? No check engine lights on other than the typical abs lights.
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I have a 2002 S10, I'm the second owner. I checked with the previous owner ( the person I bought it from) to see if he has ever had any issues with the A/C. He said "Not at all." I do know the truck was sitting very close to a year.
I've recharged the system and now it's right at the red so far as r-134a gauge go. When I turn the A/C I can hear the A/C clutch kicking in and out like every 9 seconds.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
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1999 Explorer XLT V6 4 Door. So my 4WD was randomly kicking in and out to the point that it was intolerable. Don't have the $$$ for a repair, so the mechanic disconnected the plug from the 4wd motor. Now the car is doing all sorts of crazy electrical stuff. Is there a way to more surgically disable the 4wd without the unwanted electrical freak-outs?
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98 Camry 3.0 V6 . Gas kicking back when filling tank. Was told it's an easy fix. That a line that makes the air escape is clogged. But I can't seem to find the canister or where the line is. If i pump it really slow it will go in steady.
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Yesterday my 2003 camry has kicking noise from head. i am not sure it is broken valve or the VVTi broken. the oil look like silver. There is no cel code and car run ok.
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I sold a buddy of mine my dad's old 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with about 100,000 miles. It passed an inspection and was in good condition. Afterwards we both noticed it had a kicking sound in the transmission as you were cruising with it. It was variable but on average about every 20 mins or so. My buddy thought it was probably due to overfilling with fluid so he had it flushed but the problem still remains. He thinks it gets worse as it heats more. We're not sure what the problem is.
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2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost electric fans not kicking on. I've checked all the fuses and relays and the are good.
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