Golf IV R32 :: Intermittent Start - Clutch Position Sensors In Driver Footwell?
Dec 7, 2011
My car will not start intermittently and I've narrowed it down to these sensors and want to replace them ASAP. How to replace it and it was about a 10 minute job.
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I had been having an issue with leaking door seals in my GTI (2012, 2 door, 18k). I had noticed the front and rear carpet was damp and my front monster mats were wet after it would rain. I had the dealership replace the door seals and it has eliminated the issue in the front footwells.
However, the rear drivers side footwell is still wet. Since my car is a two door and it is not wet around the back of the drivers side door i am perplexed as to were the water is coming from.
I read that sometimes the AC drain hose can leak into the car if disconnected but i am not sure where our hose is. I also have heard that it could be a drain plug missing on the underside of the car letting water in.
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Last month I picked up my MKVII AutoBahn with Lighting Package. It was kind of an emergency buy, but a long time coming.
I haven't had much time to check every nook and cranny, but I did make do the important checks (Shipping Pucks, I'm looking at you).
Either way, since I received the car the Footwell Lighting on the driver side has never lit up, I assumed that it was the same case on the passenger side, and that the option was just off.
When my wife was getting out of the car 2 days ago I noticed that it was in fact lighting on the passenger side, but not the driver side.
So, after speaking with the service department at the dealership, it seems almost impossible to get the car there for scheduling reasons.
Is there anything I can do on my own to troubleshoot? I'm not very handy, but always willing to try.
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Throwing codes here.... been seeing the P1347 consistently with the P0011 and P1143 intermittent.
I have checked the resistance of the camshaft adjustment valve resistance and found them to both be around 9 Ohm (spec is 10-18 Ohm).
I checked the voltage to both camshaft position sensors and they are in spec at 4.9 Volts
I swapped the camshaft position sensors to see if the code would follow the sensor but it did not so it is directly related to the intake camshaft.
It is looking like there is a timing issue either related to the adjustment valves going or possibly some contamination preventing them from working properly. They are both out of spec in terms of resistance which is odd that they would both go at the same time but possible.
The oil inside the camshaft position sensors is no good I cleaned it all out when I swapped the sensors but no change. These will have to be replaced.
Car has 125k on it so it could be due for timing chains but I want to rule out anything else first.
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Got a mk4 golf tdi 51 plate i have noticed water in drivers foot well.
Dried out the carpet and underlay siliconed the bonnet release cable gromet and the electrical box next to it. the drains on both sides under the scuttle panel are clear. 1 week later the water is back again i noticed when i washed the car that there was foam on the top of the scuff panel on the in side of the car and on the seat adjuster.
Is my door seal gone? There is no water anywhere else in the car just at the drivers side foot well. at the wear pad area under the pedals. 3 door no sun roof.....
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Somehow, I managed to pop out the light module in the driver's side footwell. It still works, but was dangling loose by the cord. I stuffed it temporarilly behind the side trim panel, just to get it out of the way of the clutch.
It doesn't look damaged, but I can't see where/how this attaches to the structure in the footwell. I tried looking how the passenger side module is attached, but it's set into/covered by a trip panel the driver's side doesn't have.
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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Replacing the crankshaft position sensors on the 95-99 aurora? very difficult?
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I've tried everything I can think of to get my cruise control working again to no avail. I have a late 99 with a 6 speed. So far I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter, I've checked continuity from the harness under the dash through the clockspring to the switches, truck does not start without the clutch pushed in so the neutral safety switch works, has the upgraded switch and harness off the master cylinder. the previous owner said the cruise was intermittent about a year after they did the harness and switch recall on it. is there a way to test the harness and switch? I got a 1800 mile round trip coming up in about a week and I am gonna have a sore foot if I cant figure this out.
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I'm getting water in the driver's side footwell on my new (to me) 09 SE. I have the VW Cerified used Warranty so it's off to the dealer tomorrow. I had a similar problem with water in the rear cargo area, which was traced to the sunroof drain(s) being disconnected. Is water in the front also an indication of sunroof problems or is it likely coming in the door?
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Twice now, I've felt a cold drop of water, drip onto my foot while driving the wife's new 2014 2.0T. She's never mentioned it but she also doesn't wear sandals so she may never feel it. The carpet is not wet there, so whatever it is, it's not enough to soak the floor. It was dry out so it's not rain or car wash, but I was running the AC on both occasions, but I couldn't imagine anything AC related above the drivers footwell? I'm sure the dealer will not be able to recreate the problem so I'm likely stuck dealing with it myself...
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The setup is:
MK IV .:R32 with 99,000 miles
Stage 2 clutch with 16.5 lbs. single mass flywheel
The clutch, flywheel & throw-out bearing all have about 20,000 miles on them
For some strange reason it looks like my driver's side axle keeps sliding out from it's position in the differential. This 1st happened after I did a dyno run about 6,000 miles ago. I lost half of my transmission fluid cause the axle shaft back out about a half inch. I guess the spindle stopped the shaft from backing out all the way. It appears to have happen again. What holds this axle in position? What keeps the axle from backing off like this?
My shop said the bearing/seal looked new and in good condition. Besides, it's a $15 part. We believed that the axle just snapped into position but after 4 nights at the drag strip it appears to be leaking again.
CV joints look good. Axle looks good. Transmission and differential all look good. Dog gone axle just keeps sliding out. Did the dyno runs damage something?
ALSO, on night two I did 4 strong passes back to back. Some with wheel slip and others hooked up solid. That night I developed THE HAMSTER WHEEL. Thought it was just a heat shield but I hear a noise that can only be explained by HAMSTER WHEEL. It only seems to happen when driving slow and on then off the clutch. Is it the dust shield? Is my rear main seal damaged? Or is it my timing chains on the way out. It only sounds funny at slow speeds with clutch movement. Too hard to trouble shoot alone.
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I have a 2012 2-door R with sunroof and navigation. Almost from the very beginning the driver's seat had a problem. It would not hold the position of the back. It would slowly keep going back. Over a couple of days of driving (less than 2 hours per day) I would have to adjust the back about a 1/4 turn of the wheel to get it back to the original position. I have taken it back to the dealer twice for this and they could not find anything obvious.
They said that they would need to take the seat apart in order to figure it out. According to them I am the first one with this issue they have heard of. I am debating if I should keep adjusting it every couple of days, or take the chance and let them take it apart, hoping that there will be no collateral damage in the process. How easy/difficult it is to get to the guts of the seat?
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My car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
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So my car has had the two cam position sensor codes for awhile..and it had a cheddar/chain noise when you first start it up and at 1000-1500 rpms anything past that it would go away. also car has been very very sluggish. and horrible on gas. so im guessing it may have skipped time or the chains were really stretched but something just was not right..
So I bought everything to do the timing chains and tore it done yesterday and this is what i found.
intermediate shaft gear is done....both cams off just a little ...no interference ...
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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My footwell lights come on and stay on after I turn the headlights on. They go off when I turn the headlights off. I'm on a stock switch and haven't vagcom'ed anything.
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I've got a 2012 GTI, About two weeks ago I noticed that my footwell lights are now coming on whenever my headlights are on. All the rest of the time, they seem to operate normally. I'm not sure if they've always done this, and I've just never noticed before, or if I've got an electrical problem. I went so far as to actually RTFM, and there's no mention of any separate controls or settings for the footwell lights.
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I have searched and everyone just states to press in the tabs and the cover pops off. Well this is not the case for me, the lids won't budge and the tabs seem to be recessed as is. This can't be as hard as i'm making it.
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I just took delivery of a new 2011 golf and noticed the footwell lights were absent, presumably because Canadians always seem to get shafted. I would like to hear from other Canadian golf owners before going to the dealer.
If absent footwell lights are indeed standard for Canadian golfs, I'm thinking about installing them myself. I found a link on another site that details the install on an MKV : [URL]...
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So I've noticed lately that atleast one of the passenger side footwell ducts is blowing cold air when the car is warmed up and everything else is blowing warm air. It seems to be the ducts closest to the driver side, although I'm not 100% sure. 2010 GTI MK6 ....
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