Golf IV R32 :: Intake Air Temperature Sender Signal Too High / Air Mass Meter Signal Too Low
Jun 13, 2011
I drove to the mall and left the car there, when I was done and tried starting, it fired up but the rpms started to fall and CEL came on. CEL are:
-16497 P0113 050 Intake air temperature sender-G42 Signal too high
-16486 P0102 050 Air mass meter-G70 signal too low
And after it died it cranks but never fires up. I called the dealership trying to find out where the IAT sensor is but they said it's in the manifold and not sure where. Where is IAT sensor?
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Started the car about an hour ago. Pulled out of the driveway went about 15 feet up the road. Noticed the dashboard light with the (!) was illuminated and I didn't even turn off ESP. Shifted to about second gear power cut off engine shut off.
Pushed the car back into my driveway scanned it with VAD.
16486 P0102098
Air mass meter-G70: Signal too low
[static]
edit: car idles higher than normal. sounds like MAF is toast?
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I was cruising at around 80 mph and the epc and check engine light flashed for a second, and I felt a slight loss of power for a second then it was normal after that. When I pulled over and check out the engine, it was making this noise (video) when I got home, I scanned it with my vagcom and got P0333 knock sensor signal too high, maf sensor signal low, and a clutch pedal switch I've replaced the bushings on the intake rod with the gruven bushings and the sound is still there.
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We have a 2015 Sonata 2.4 Sport that has developed an intermittent turn signal problem. When the left turn signal is turned on, the right signal will blink. When the right signal is turned on, nothing blinks. A new symptom that recently started is sometimes neither turn signal will turn on regardless of the position of the turn signal stalk. I managed to get the car to dealer #1 while the LEFT=RIGHT & RIGHT=NOTHING issue was happening but while troubleshooting it, they ran across an inactivated aftermarket alarm system that dealer #2 that sold me the car had installed. I guess the alarm they install is so cheap, it's not even worth removing if they are unsuccessful in upselling you at the time of purchase.
Since dealer #1 would not troubleshoot any further unless the alarm was removed, I retrieved the car and took it back to the original dealer #2 I bought it from. They removed the alarm and the turn signals started working again, however, this lasted about 2 weeks before the symptoms returned. I booked an appointment at the dealer #1 to bring the car in & half way during the drive there, the turn signals started working again. With nothing to show them, I didn't drop off the car. Now the problem is back. Since it tends to come and go, I have try and time when I can drop the car off so it's happening when they get it.
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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I have a 5.0 with the Explorer intake, GT40 heads, RJM harness, E303 cam, and a A9M computer in a '68 Mustang.
When you let off of the throttle the CEL comes on indicating low voltage on the MASS air meter. I changed the MASS from the '89-93 5.0 Fox Mustang meter to a new '94 Cobra style meter, reset the computer and it does the same thing (immediately).
Current intake setup is the Explorer throttle body, an '89-93 Fox 45* elbow, MASS air meter and a double cone Spectra air filter mounted directly on the meter.
I don't really have room to go cold air unless the battery goes in the trunk and since this is my wife's daily driver, I am reluctant to. Car is running open loop at 12mpg.
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Check engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.
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A few minutes ago on the way to the cabin, I was using the high beam (Auto mode) and when I push the stalk up to make the right turn, the headlights went off for a sec while the dash lights flashed brightly. Almost made me change my underwear!
When I arrived at the cabin, I tested the stalk and it turned out with loose or something like that.
What was causing that action? It never happen with low beams.
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My roommate has a 2006 S60 Volvo. One day the passenger turn signal just stopped working. It only works if the high beam is on. The driver side turn signal works fine and so do the emergency flashers. It's not the bulb, not the fuse, not the turn signal lever, and she even took it in the shop and they couldn't figure out the problem without replacing the DIM which would cost a lot.
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Looking at my circle track car when they told me my air intake temperature sensor was missing this is a picture online I found: [URL] ....
The hole is filled with a bolt and some epoxy. I don't see where the cable is for it. What will this do to my car? It is a track only car.
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So i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
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I have a set of OEM HID's. I noticed that thesignal lights blinked in double time when I had them installed. Only one of the signals out of the two in each headlight blink however. A friend told me that the reason the HID's had 2 blinkers per headlight is because the HID's are so strong they require both signals to work to overcome the headlights. For those of you that have OEM HID's, do both your signals work? Being that mine don't, do you think that is the cause of my signals blinking in double time?
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I bought a dsg golf tdi 2011 last week. this week, while i was driving, after a sudden jerk, some kind of transmission problem signal came up on the instrument panel. since then, the car will not pick up the 1st gear after a complete stop (nor other gear). I would have to restart the car to get it going. When i got back i noticed that there is some kind of oily liquid dripping down under the car.
what kind of action should i take? I called the dealer and am towing the car to the shop tomorrow. They are saying they would fix it but i think i deserve a refund or replacement at least. Seeing it break down in a week makes the car untrustworthy. plus, it would devalue the car as well, right?
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So one of my headlights turned purple, and I get an "light" signal on the dash. It still lights up but it's purple. I have 23,000 miles on the car and I have had it for 1 year and 4 months. Also, should I get both light replaced.
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Was wondering how to remove the turn signal bulbs in the OEM LED taillights.. Ordered Some new bulbs and decided to see how hard it was to change out. Removed taillight and located socket the contained the bulb. Looks like it should twist to unlock but only turns a little. looks like it wants to turn counter clockwise.
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So I was doing the DRL - Dimming on indication mod with the VAGCOM. I used the following steps:
Go to [09] Central Electronics
Go to Security Access and enter 31347
Go to adaptation channels and set the following (they're quite far down the list):
"Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion G 2" to Blinken links active (besides Phasen)
"Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimmwert GH 2" to 35
"Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimming Direction GH 2" to minimize
"Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion G 3" to Blinken rechts aktiv (beide Phasen)
"Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimmwert GH 3" to 35
"Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimming Direction GH 3" to minimize
Now my right front turn signal is inop. Checked voltage and swapped bulbs left to right. the bulb is good. No sure what I did. Could I have disabled the blinker somehow? Where is the channel for the right front blinker?
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Just now toward the end of my drive to work the turn signal clicker was possessed and randomly clicks. Still clicks as normal when I turn on the signals.
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The other day this started and hasnt quit. I was driving to work and after i used my turn signal and everything worked correctly and as it shoud except for the noise. The turn signal noise keeps ticking, sometimes at a fast pase, after i make a turn and the signal turns off. And will continue to do so even though i havent even used my turn signals.
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A couple of months ago my turn signal ticker decided to keep ticking after I stopped using the signal. It would happen in either direction, full signal use with automatic return, and if only using the signal stalk to move over a lane (not fully pressing the stalk down). Problem went away but is now back. At first I thought a light bulb was out since the noise was kind of fast. All my bulbs light up and all functions are normal. It is only the noise that is the issue. My signal does not stay on when I get this extra noise. what can I do to fix it?
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