Golf IV R32 :: Inside Of The Tires All Chewed Up
Jan 9, 2010
I destroyed my front tires about 3 months ago, I thought the tracking was out because the inside of the tires were all chewed up, so I bought 2 new ones and had the tracking done. Well today I took the .:R to the Tire Barn for a rotation and they informed me that there's wear on the inside again.
IWould it prevent any more damage to the tires if I replaced the front control arm bushings and had a new alignment done? Ideally I would like to replace the control arms but I can't afford that right now as I'm about to buy a house.
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Was just looking under the hood of the 08 R32 I just bought and noticed that a couple of smaller diameter (thumb size) hoses at the windshield had chew marks on it. Took it to my local shop. The mechanic called me a little later and said that there are actually 3 hoses chewed up, a third is down below, and that there is a nationwide back order on all three of these hoses with no estimate of when new hoses will arrive and it is unlikely that any dealer has these in stock. My mechanic said that he's been around long enough to know that when he sees a situation like this, there will likely be a recall on these hoses.
My mechanic said my hoses are pretty chewed up and the car is unsafe to drive, certainly not for long drives in hot weather. I am taking the car to a race shop nearby to install my Milltek exhaust and they have some ability to custom make hoses. I hope they can do it.
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'02 SC430 with just over 30K miles. She is wearing out the inside edges of the tires. We have had the car aligned twice in our one year ownership. Are these cars prone to this kind of wear and/or going out of alignment? Would this be a spring/shock/strut issue? I assume the original components are still on the car so maybe she just needs replacement parts due to age. She has low miles, but she is 11 years old now.
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Just put new tires on my excursion 4x4 powerstroke and I'm getting cupping just on the inside of both front tires it already has new ball joints and steering box tire rods are tight and all joints in the front. what else could cause it?
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Getting new tires very soon. I noticed this wear pattern on my front tires. The heavily worn part is on the inside of both front tires. Is this normal wear for our cars (I do go around the turns pretty fast) or should I have an alignment done once the new tires are on?
The link might not be working, try this one? [URL]
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i have noticed that my front tires are wearing quicker on the inside. that is to say they don't seem to be wearing evenly. have almost no tread left on the insides of front tires and these tires only have about 13000 mi on them. is this and aligment problem? dealer says no.
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Four months after I bought my Prius III last year, we discovered that the left rear wheel was so out of alignment that it ruined the tire in 5,000 miles, and then also ruined the one put in its place during regular tire rotation. Toyota replaced the entire set of tires, and I checked the alignment this fall and again this spring when I took off the snow tires.
Everything looked fine. Nevertheless, when I rotated the tires today, the tech reported that ALL FOUR tires were substantially cupped on the inside, after only 6,000 miles on this set of tires. Road noise has become much higher. It doesn't make sense that all four wheels got similarly out of alignment in just two months.
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I have an 04 ranger with 31x10.5x15 mud tires on it and the front tires are wearing on the inside real bad if you look at it the tire look tilted in on the tops...
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
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I have had recurring problems with the VSC, Trac, and check engine light continuing to come on. I have taken it to the dealership several times, once the said it was because a rat had chewed through a harness. I payed to have the harness fixed and the lights came back on.
My real problem is,I notice that the mouse excuse has come up several times when people take their vehicles in to the dealer.
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I have a 2000 passat. I recently acquired the car and the previous owner installed a cone filter. While driving the filter got chewed up into the wheel well and breaking. The car was running Decent without a Mass air flow but would run rich and sputter obviously. I parked the car at my cousins and decided it would make it home without the sensor the next day.
I proceeded to drive the car home. On the way home the car shut off on the 2nd lane - I was able to get off with the metro courtesy towing. The car has not started since. I checked the following
- Timing belt - Still intact and does not look damaged
- Fuel - I removed the feeder hose from the fuel rail and turn the key and got a huge squirt so fuel is good
- Checked for spark - Pulled out a spark plug and placed it on my coil and grounded the plug on valve cover - NO SPARK WHATSOEVER
- I checked the number 1 wire on the coil for power.
- I used a test light for this (no Ohm meter )
Placed test light on number 1 pin and got a light that dimmed immediately ( seems weak? i would assume it would be high output for the spark plug .
I also tried to find the motronic Power supply Relay. I looked in the box where the ECU is located on the driver side and found 2 relays next to the ecu, a black one , and a grey one ( which one is the power supply replay?)
But the only things that can cause my problem are
-Cam Position sensor
-Power supply relay
-ECU
-Crank Sensor
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Started my car up this morning and it felt like it was running on 5 cylinders and the check engine light came on.
I looked and a Rat had made a nest with foam insulation and chewed through a fuel injector wire.
2008 Camry V6 77,000 miles.
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Click and Clack... When it wouldn't start one day (away from home) he had to keep going back to where it was to try to figure out what was wrong. He came up with a few different diagnoses but came to the conclusion it was the fuel injector inside the gas tank and went online to order one. Once it finally got towed back home, he had a chance to really get a good look and found that all those wires had been chewed and eaten. They're too short to splice back together.
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I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?
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I just bought a used 2009 VW GTI which is a lovely car as you can see from this picture:[URl]. As you can also see from that picture I live in one of the many snowy states. The roads now resemble the lunar surface except with deeper craters and potholes. When I bought the car, I was stupid enough to be talked into a $500 5 year warranty. Or was I? I've driven the car for almost a month and have replaced 2 tires due to pothole damage. At this rate, I'm way ahead on the warranty. The car has 18" low profile tires which seem sensitive to being banged into the rim of potholes. Is there something about my driving that's causing this issue? I don't really speed and the last blowout happened at around 30mph. Is this something I just have to live with? Can I replace the tires w/ normal tires?
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Had a friend at vw change my haldex fluid and the next day I'm driving my tires locked then let go and skidded a bit now my car is making a very weird noise from the rear and where the haldex is located I'm getting a bit of leaking.
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I have a 2004 VW R32 lowered and all 4 of the tires wear down on the inside really fast. Camber kit? Which kit should I get?
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I have a slow leak in one of my tires. Loses maybe 1 PSI per day. I've taken the tire off, washed it, examined it closely, used dishwashing soap (to look for bubbles) and cannot find the leak. Even paid close attention to the valve.
So now I'm thinking of using of those cans of sealant, but I'm afraid of damaging the tire pressure sensor.
FWIW, the tires have about 13K miles on them.
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So I recently bought my R with only 60k miles bone stock, and i had a feeling my awd wasn't working because i would roast my tires in first, and chirp bad into second.. so i am putting it on a lift today and i was wondering what i should look for that can be causing the problem. i hear the fuses and rear diff fluids can affect it so ill have to check.
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All 4 tires on my R32 at 40psi, but the TPMS light still on. Just wondering what PSI all R32 owner running?
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Need new tires for my R32. I am not satisfied with the OEM Dunlop tires, will not buy them again. They make too much noise!
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