Golf IV R32 :: Input On Brakes - Fixing Paint / Tires - Erasing Codes
Mar 2, 2012
Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
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I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
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More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
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My Suzuki has been in and out of maybe 5 shops in attempts to fix engine codes P0171 (system lean) and P0174 (bank 1 rich). None of them have successfully done so. I tried to take it into a dealer, but I was informed that diagnostic would take several hours (maybe $1000), and that the fix may be another ~$1500-2000, even though I have already replaced many parts related to these codes.
The dealer advised me to give up on the car, as the repairs could easily exceed the value of the car. I don't really care about that, I just need a reliable car that works.
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Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
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Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac grand am coupe GT with the 6 cylinder engine. It has been a very good car to me. I really like it and it "fits" me well ... and yet... it is now testing me. About a year ago the check engine light came on. The codes were P0327 and P0336 for bad Knock sensor and Crank sensor respectively. The were both replaced multiple times, the light still stays on... and the codes are still coming up. I have have been to different experts, and after the computer resets... there they are again. (someone even thought that the computer needed updated codes for those sensors... so he installed them.. with no better results). The code P1189 for an oil switch is now coming up too.Here in California, the car cannot pass smog with the check engine light on... so I'm not able to re-register it, and I don't think I can sell it for much because no one can register it now. So, what this can be? Is there some common thread between all these sensors (or a recall of some kind) that would explain this? My fear is that the computer will have to be changed at about $1000. My even greater fear is that that will still not solve the problem.
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I am getting the following trouble codes:
P0342 cam position sensor A bank 1 Ckt Low Input
P0102 MAF or VAF A Ckt Low Input
The accessory belt moves when I try to start it, but my timing belt stays still, but is kind of tight/very little slack.
It died on the highway, was in gear and it just lost power.
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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I'm owner of a VW GTI 2011 Stage 2 APR
Chip Stage 2, APR Intake
Today I got a Check Engine light, I plugged my scanner and read: P2404/009220 EVAP Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit: Implausible Signal. But I realize that I have 2 tube near the motor that doesn't have anything on it.
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As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
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I have a early model R, (1766) the Aux Input is in the Glove Compartment. The deck doesn't have the Aux button, but I was reading in the manual if it doesn't, hold the CD button down. The only thing that happens when I do that is the CD goes into MIX MODE. How I use the Aux input on this thing?
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Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
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I have had my 2011 model III for a month, and today I had to brake rather abruptly. I heard my tires squeal! Is this normal? I have owned at least two other vehicles with ABS, and I recall the pulsing of the pedal, but not tire squeal.
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My AUX doesn't seem to work (had the IPOD plugged into the M-M cable and the other end plugged into the AUX in the glovebox). When I hit CD nothing happens, when I hold it down, I get CD-MIX. When I hit SAT multiple times it cycles through SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, but never shows AUX. I don't see anything regarding AUX in the manual either.... I have recoded my instrument panel to UK among a couple other vagcom mods. Can I fix this with the VAGCOM? Can I upgrade the firmware via a CD?
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So I got my Gas Tank Fix done a couple weeks back, and ever since (at least that I can remember) whenever the car turns on I get this 1-2 second wiff of a paint smell kinda....like something was freshly painted, then it goes away almost instantly.
Do you think something happened to my car at the dealer and they covered it up? Seems weird though, you'd think you'd be able to smell the paint more often.
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When I look into the brakes on the two rear tires, I see a good bit of rust on the discs. Should I be concerned?
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I have a set of V Maxx's on my car for a couple of months...and i noticed that the red paint on the spring is starting to flake off...is there anything i could do to re-coat them or something? this happened on my patec coilovers on my MK IV.
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I've got some parts of the pain on my reflex silver wagon that have begun chipping off of the rear bumper near the edge. I'm assuming the PO was trying to lift something into the back and didn't quite make it high enough...a few times. Anyway, the surface underneath the paint is black, so I'm assuming it's plastic.
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