Golf IV R32 :: Inconsistent Deep Hum / Drone For A Few Moments
Jun 13, 2014
Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
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It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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On the way to work this morning in stop-and-go traffic, I noticed a new, weird noise from my week-old 2012 GTI with less than 500 miles on it.
The noise happens when letting of the gas in gear. Doesn't matter what gear you're in or what the engine speed is. Around a second after getting of the gas, there is a loud, depp bass thump, almost like a subwoofer hit from a close-by car. That's what I originally thought it was, but later determined it's something from my car.
What it could be? An exhaust noise? Something hitting? Is this a common noise on the new GTIs?
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I am working with a friend on his 2004 v8 toureg. It dies at idle after a few moments. I thought it was the usual coil issue cause he said the thing was misfiring like a mother so i replaced the coils and got rid of the misfire but still died. Then i noticed that one of the plastic linkages was broken on the air velocity flaps on the intake manifold. Tried holding the flap open but it still dies. Is it possible that the ecu is shutting the car off because of the air code from the flap?
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When start my car and turn on the lights, its on for a few moments and they flicker, and then the driver side turns off. I toggle the switch off and on, and they fire right back up, but few moments later its off again. After about 10 minutes of doing that, they usually stay on, but once I make a quick stop (at store or bank for example) and turn off the headlights, the issue starts again and I usually cant get them to stay on after that unless I park the car for a few hours, and go through the 10 mins of screwing around with them again. Sometimes it will cause the passenger side to turn off as well, or sometimes even both!
I really need to fix this, along with my front parking lights in the bumper and the rear side bumper lights as well. I also have to take care of my license plate lights, which the harness does not even seem to be there behind the left lens, and the right one is missing.
I want to fix them, but if I take apart the fixtures, I want to polish the inside of the lens. and do any other mods at that time. I want to stick with the HID's, but maybe get some different bulbs for the low beam, that funky yellowish light that runs during the day, and the fog lights. I am not going to mess around with the LED's for a while. I had halogens in my last car that I had to update to HID to get good light, and these SC lights are even better since they are auto leveling, and turn with the car for the most part as well.
Does this sound like the bulbs? I heard of people online changing the bulbs and still having this issue. I thought it could be ballasts, but I am a newbie to the HID lighting so I am not sure. There are youtube vids up with this issue on the SC and ES models also I believe, so this is a known problem that pops up for everyone at one point during ownership.
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My Radio shuts off at moments of high power usage. Like with the lights all on, blower motors on high, and having the anti locks kick in.
When this happens, I can watch my voltage gauge drop down to 12v or so. Was thinking a Capacitor would solve the issue.
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I have a ford focus (2004) 4cyl 2.0 L. One day, the car would stall only moments after the engine would turn. It would just shut as if fuel was ceased. I could however rev the engine and keep it running if I had my foot on the gas. After awhile, I tried again and it worked! Everything was normal, then it stalled after trying to start if up again. So this was intermittent at the time.
So, I swapped my fuel pump relay with the a/c one- and it fired right up! I'm thinking great, its just the relay and not the actual fuel pump. So went to the parts store, got a relay, and (me being me) wanted the new relay in the original fuel pump relay plug in the fuse box. As I was taking it out, a really really small piece of plastic chipped off of the plastic cover of the relay, and fell in one of the slots where you put the relay. How in the world?? I couldn't get it out. So I ended up putting the relay in anyway, and my car has the same problem originally (stalls), but now I have these check engine codes: p0460 and p0463
I also noticed, its running really rough when I hold the gas now. Could the plastic piece that fell into the relay be causing a strange short from my fuse box? Or, could it be my fuel pump this whole time? If its messed up because the plastic, Is finding a fuse box at a junkyard and replacing it feasible?
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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I just took off my 20" rims and put my stock rims back on for the winter but now I have a humming from the front end that starts at about 15mph and increases loudness to 40mph. At 40mph I can start to feel a light vibration in the wheel and through my feet.
My first thought was the wheels are not balanced but they are fairly new and barely used and where fine at the end of last winter. It just doesn't seem like that is the issue. As I was thinking about it more, when I had the 20"s on I remember thinking it seems like the road noise is considerable louder recently but I just passed it off as the low profile tires because they are in fact a lot louder than the stock tires. After putting the stock wheels on I was expecting to have my nice quiet and comfortable ride back like I always do during this time of year but not this time.
I tried driving in tight circles but I couldn't get the car going fast enough to see if it was a wheel bearing on one side.
It's an 04 camry XLE V6.
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I have a low drone sound when accelerating, what this could be? Is the Water Pump going?
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What is the reason for the cabin drone that sets in at about 75 mph? The drone gets much less at about 90 mph and then almost disappears. When I take my foot off the gas pedal within that speed range, the drone seems to be gone.
My Ex V10 2004 4x4 has the following mods:
(1) SUSPENSION LIFT. ProComp 4".
(2) GEARS. Re-geared to 4.56.
(3) PERFORMANCE. Banks PowerPack, i.e. Banks cold air intake, Banks exhaust manifolds, Banks y-pipe, and Banks Automind programmer.
(4) EXHAUST. Flowmaster Super 44 muffler, single-in-dual-out (SIDO). Stock cat remained in place.
(5) WHEELS. Moto Metal MO951 Chrome wheels, 20x10, 8/170, ET -18, BSM 4.79, with 35/12.5/20 (315/60/20) Nitto Trail Grappler tires.
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