I searched but couldn't find any DIY on how to remove/install the haldex controller. Is it straight forward or any special tools needed? I know its very tight in there?
View 3 RepliesOk, so I scanned a 2006 Passat 3.6 4mo. I got a fault for the catalyst system, a fault for the AWD controller, and a fault for the Haldex pump. I'm guessing the catalyst code is for the oxygen sensors? What should be my next course of action on the AWD stuff?
============================================
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Part No SW: 03H 997 033 M HW: Hardware No
Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2370
Revision: --H11--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000175
[Code] ....
How to remove the rear side interior trim? I want to install a rear view camera. I need to pull the trim to run the wiring along the left side to the floor and to the front of the car.
My understanding is I need to get access to the left rear side of the hatch, then underneath the carpet along the rear door trim, etc. I've seen some posts on the 2 door, but there appear to be differences between that and the 4 door.
I've just bought a new 2016 SD xlt. The only extra I wanted that is missing is the factory trailer brake controller. The dealer told me it had to be programmed. I was expecting plug and play and planned to do it myself till they told me that. Is this true?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 4 door GTI. I'd like to install my daughter's front facing Britax child seat either in the rear right or rear central position. However, in either case, I'm finding that most of the rear weight ends up on the headrest and I would like to simply remove the headrest from that seating position.
I read in the user manual that to remove the headrest,I pull it to it's highest position and then push the button on the right side of the plastic entrance of the head rest into the seat, and 'simply' pull the headrest vertical out of the seat.
This is similar to how this was done in other cars I've owned. However it is not working for me with the GTI. Once I pull the headrest to the highest possible position I can get to, I press the button but the headrest simply refuses to come out. I've tried this on the other rear seat and same problem. With the middle rear seat I can't seem to pull the headrest out beyond its lowest position.
So my R's been FWD for a while now and I've been thinking with 147k on the clock it's the pump that failed but I want to be sure that's it before I buy the rebuild kit. A friend and I hooked up his vag-com yesterday to test the pump. We got a signal to the controller and could hear the pump run from sitting inside the car but it was very very quiet. From what he told me is that it should be louder like a fuel pump. So we pulled up the voltage readings and that's what you can see in the photo. It's only seeing .70v and normal functioning voltage should be between 11-15v.
Afterwards I stopped at my work and got it on a hoist to check all connectors in the back(controller and pump). None have any corrosion or moisture in them but I cleaned them up with some Di-electric cleaner for good measure. Would a bad pump give a voltage reading that low? If not then why isn't the pump getting the required voltage?
Yesterday the car was fine going to work and most of the way home. It was raining pretty hard and I went through a large puddle then right after I started to hear a pretty loud noise. It sounded like it was coming from the middle of the car, more so in between the main seats and was vibrating my seat a little bit. It only happened on mediumish acceleration, during low acceleration it wasn't there at all. Also the car still felt fine. Then when I got off main road I was on a street that wasn't super wet cause of all the trees, the sound stopped.
Here is a link to the sound, you might have to turn up the volume because it is a little low. You can hear it best around 14 sec: [URL].....
So today I jacked it up to see if I could see anything and I found oil all around the haldex stuff. Here are some pics I took of the leak. There is also a bright yellow spot you can see through a hole. Not sure what that means. The haldex service was done, maybe 5-10k miles ago, I'd have to look it up to figure out exact time. In one of the pics you might notice black silicone around one of the plugs, this was because when I did get it serviced for the first time, someone before stripped the bolt so the mechanic put that around it to hold it in. It still looks like it is on there pretty well so I don't think that is the issue.
This isn't a big deal but I noticed this plastic part isn't bolted down, I really don't think the noise would be from this but posted just in case.
So yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
View 1 RepliesTop and bottom left. Where the 2 vac lines on the rear diff/haldex unit goes?
View 1 RepliesMy wife cracked in half the gas fill door on our 2012 SE. I ordered a new one online and painted it to match our car. I cannot figure out how to get the old one out and install the new one. I removed the 4 screws around the gas filler tube but how do I access the back to get out the old hinge?
View 5 RepliesBecause I don't have repair manual, so don't know how to remove the headlight ,
View 1 RepliesI am getting ready to install DVD headrest players in my RX400h. I am stumped on how to remove the read shield of the seat if that makes sence? I believe the are held in by clamps from middle to top but not sure what needs done at the bottome. And I can also feel two straps at the bottom.
How to remove the back so I can run the wires down the seat from the headrests? Pictures? Diagrams?
Back in the day with my MK4 I was able to roll the windows up/ down etc with my key fob's lock/ unlock buttons when I installed a program I purchased from ECS.... Is anything like this available for the MKVI?
View 2 RepliesInstalled a used comp controller and now vag-com is giving me the a code:
1 Fault Found
01315 - Transmission Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset Counter: 138
Mileage: 69085 km
Time Indication: 0
I have taken it off and put it back on, I have cleared that code and re-scanned and still receive it. Have not driven car to see what it feels like as of yet.
I'm having trouble getting the strut back through the steering knuckle. I used the 1/4 ratchet to spread it and get the strut out but I can't get the strut to go back after installing the VWR spring. I've tried speaking with many tools now and it's just so damn stuck. I hope I haven't damaged anything by hammering a wedge into the point where the ratchet is supposed to spread it. After a couple of tries the ratchet doesn't seem to spread it at all.
View 2 RepliesI had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
I recently installed the LED euro tail lights with out swapping pins, or any ghetto harnesses. i simply installed my tail lights with the oem harness. Anyways, after i installed the lights, the bulb out warning came on, i got rid of it, but when i press the brakes it triggers the warning light to appear after i vagcomed it to go away. so what is the coding to get rid of it?
View 2 RepliesIs an alignment after a spring install necessary?
Getting my H&R springs installed tomorrow and was curious
[URL]
I just had a set of VWR springs installed on my 2011 GTI (35,xxx).
I've noticed a very discernible clunk coming from the driver's side front wheel particularly when traveling over a dip in the road (when the spring and suspension is extending). The sound only comes from the one wheel well - the other three sound fine.
I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow (recommend after the spring install). Sounds almost like a bad bushing?
I finally decided to take the plunge and go with Stage 2 BFI inserts and mount.
Engine Setup (for reference):
EIP cold air
BFI Stage 2 Inserts and Mounts
Recently replaced clutch to brand new stock clutch
TT short shifter
First off, everything feels great. very solid mounts especially when compared to the spongy stock ones. definitely gets the job done.
Here's my question, is it normal to hear a lot of noise chatter coming from the clutch when not engaged? when my foot is on the clutch it goes away, and when i take my foot off a lot of noise starts coming from it. as far as i know, some clutch noise is relatively normal but I'm not sure if a lot is. also, when i start the car, the starter has a deeper, louder, more pronounced tone to it. not sure if that is normal or not either.