My car is bagged with the airlift front struts. wondering if there is any way to get more camber in the front without the performance struts.
View 8 RepliesI am running fk coils, and for some reason the front driver side camber is -1.2 and it won't adjust at all. The passenger side is -2.2 and won't adjust. I was told that the the R's oem camber can be adjusted up to -1.7.
I have no camber kits on the car. I told my Mechanic why the camber doesn't adjust. He told me that he over looked everything and that he didnt see anything wrong.
I had my front shocks replaced because they were blown. It bothers me how one side has -1 more camber than the other side. I am thinking about buying camber kit because of this problem I'm having.
I called 2 VW dealerships but they couldn't give me an answer on how much adjustment for camber is possible. I did the search but only found rear camber adjustment info.
View 2 RepliesSo I just replaced my upper strut bushings and bearings and there's still noises coming from the struts or idk what it is but its coming from up front and when I back up and turn the wheel or when I am driving down my drive way there's little bumps and once i drive over them the car just makes all this noise. Pretty much what else could it be? are my struts blown? or could it be something is loose?
View 14 RepliesI have 2015 Rc350 F, with 13k miles on it and my right Front Camber Ball Joint is leaking greasy oil. Do I need to replace this or can this be covered under warranty? I have lowered springs on which I don't think has affected the camber ball.
View 4 Repliesok, I have an 02 f-150 4x4 that I did the brakes, shocks, and inner and outer tie rod ends. When I was done, the truck sat higher in the front end and the caster/camber was way out. bottom of tire sits way in. Is this just and adjustment to the tie rods, or what. The old rod ends were pretty bad. Could this be the result of an alignment tech setting caster way out to account for the bad ball joints?
View 10 RepliesSo I finally bagged my GTI...When I am aired out it looks like one side has more camber than the other side (One side rests on the tire and the other side is tucked more).
I took it to get aligned and apparently the rear have both been set 2.7 degrees camber.
I'm running Dorbritrz D-cups and SS-5s in the rear.
Last night, I replaced both front struts with Monroe complete sets (new springs, mounts, boots, struts, etc) and I had my front rotors smoothed out. That cleared up about 75% of the noises coming from the front of my car Except for one.
Whenever I'm braking, there is a noise coming from my front left wheel. It's not a brake squeal, but more like a creaking sounds that comes around with each rotation of the wheel. It slows down with the car, and I can make it last longer by doing a slow roll with the brakes one. So when I'm fast it sounds like "Crk! Crk! Crk!" When I'm going slow it's "Creeeeeak... Creeeeeeak... Creeeeeak..."
Last night, I also replaced the sway bar link on that side. The brakes are smooth and the tires were balanced a couple months ago (no steering wobbles at any speed)
2002 Camry, 140K miles.
While I don't have any leaky struts etc, I have been planning to change struts proactively when I find time. (NOT Quick struts, have monroe OE Spectrum struts).
I understand I have to do them in pairs.
Which one takes more time? Fronts or rears?
And I am guessing alignment won't be way off if I first say do the front set then weeks later the rear?
Knocking noise on car, mechanic says front struts needed (07 with 110k). Whats the cheapest place to order? He couldn't get them aftermarket. Also need the upper mounting plate?
View 10 RepliesMy 14 IS350F's front struts are leaking. I only have 11k miles on it. Taking it in tomorrow, but wondering why is it failing so soon.
View 13 RepliesI noticed my 2009 AWL Santa Fe (3.3L if it maters) had been 'bouncing' in the front end...so i brought it in to have it looked at.
The dealer here has advised me both front struts are leaking, and its still safe to drive.
This car bounces a lot, but on city roads, its not bad...On highway, you hit a little hump in the road, and it seems to bounce A LOT...for a bit of time, then settles. City driving isn't' that bad, its the highway that's freaky.
This coming weekend, I'm going camping, and tow 3500lbs with my Santa Fe, i have a weight distribution system/bars on the trailer to the vehicle. so it moves some of the weight to the front.
I recently replaced the struts and strut mounts (front and back) on my 1999 Subaru Outback (all wheel drive). Immediately after this was done, the car began making a grinding noise that comes from the front end when I either am coming to a stop (grinding begins happening at 5mph or so) or turning left (happens at any speed). However, if I am traveling along and, upon approaching a stop sign or left corner in the road, shift the car into neutral (it is an automatic transmission) the grinding does not occur. When I replaced the passenger-side strut I did not mark the position of the bolt that is responsible for adjusting the caliber. I did, however, do this for the drivers side.
I really have no clue what is going on here. I replaced the struts because the rear tires were wearing badly on the inside and I was told by a mechanic that the struts were bad (which they were). However, in an effort to save money I am unsure of how to proceed. If I go ahead and have the tires replaced and get a four-wheel alignment and it doesn't solve the issue, I will likely have to mess with the front end (or someone will anyway) which will then require another alignment.
I just finished replacing front and rear struts on my 2003 Camry SE. I decided to use Gabriel Ready Struts because I needed Boots, and Mounts. My Car has 150,000 miles, I noticed some mild nose diving during hard braking, and I wanted to improve this.
The Ready Struts did improve the nose diving, but I think the car had a better ride with original struts with 150,000.
The Car is lower in the front with the new struts, and higher in the back. Its obvious when you look at the car. I have a regular parking place at work, and the first day I parked I scraped the curb. I have parked there every day since the car was new without problems.
I am considering returning the struts, and buying KYB and using my original struts. I was concerned about using my springs with 150,000.
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
Looking for a link for a novice to see how to replace the front struts on my 07? I'm thinking I'm capable of getting them out, but will take them to a shop to compress the spring and do the switch.
View 3 RepliesI have 2007 Camry CE, 4 cyl, 102,500 miles. The rubber boots on both front and rear struts can be easily lifted with a screw driver to reveal the shiny shaft. Strut seems be pass the 'fast brake' test (no bounciness). There is oily residue on the strut body. Is that normal? If replacement is needed, should I go with Monroe or other brand. I want the original Camry ride.
Brake pads seem to have 3/16"-1/4" thickness left. All equipment is original.
The other day I heard a massive snap as I pulled out of the driveway. I drove to work and everything handled fine but if I drove over a bump I noticed a horrible sound under my car. Smaller bumbs just caused a ting. My gfs dad looked at it and said everything was fine. I surely didn't believe that so I just jacked up my car and right away I noticed my spring snapped!
View 14 RepliesI am experiencing an annoying noise from the front struts when passing over bumps. I do not believe that the front end is bottoming, but it seems to give a deep thud sound. It is not a tin sound, but more like something loose and insulated. What is a jounce bushing? Are these something in the strut assembly and susceptible to getting loose? I have read about the springs could be the culprit, but could it be that the front spring is bottoming and the strut is hitting a bottoming rubber ? Jounce bushing?
View 2 RepliesWhen I push down (to test the suspension) on the front left part of my car, it depresses and comes up. The car stabilizes (stops shaking) nearly instantly. However, when I press it down, it makes a squeaky sound. Sort of a short lived, high pitch sound. The sound comes from the area where the struts/coil springs are located. I drive a 1998 Honda Civic DX 2-door.
View 2 RepliesI went into a shop today and got my corolla checked out and they said that its shock absorbers and struts should be replaced because the oils were leaking and they told me the total estimate of my cost (parts+labors) are about 1300 dollars.
Like, do I need to buy all shock absorbers, struts and strut springs for each of the wheel? (front 2 + rear 2 = total of 4 of each) ??