Golf IV R32 :: Hesitation For A Split Second At Like 5500 Rpms
Sep 23, 2016
I bought my MKIV R 2 months ago. Car has 114k, mostly stock besides UM Tune and flapper. First things I did was new oem plugs, coils, crankshaft sensor and drop in k&n filter. PO did fuel filter at 100k. Few weeks ago I noticed when stepping on it in 2nd and 3rd gear car will hesitate for a split second at like 5500 rpms and than keep on pulling. I dont really beat on the car at all so I didnt pay attention to that. Today I tried to see if it still does it and it did, 3rd gear, 2 tries, both at 5500 rpms. I scanned the car and no fault codes. Is it normal for the car to have this sort of "hiccup"? Not sure where to start looking to be honest.
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So last night i was having some fun doing a wot pull from 2-5th and bam misfire p0301 code for cylinder 1. During the pulls i felt and noticed slight hesitation/stuttering around 5500-6100 rpms. When i let off it felt like cylinder1 was totally dead. Had a flashing cel + epc light come on, so i pull over turn the car off and now it won start. When you go to start it, it just continues to turn over, doesn't even sound like it's attempting to fire up. Feels like it doesn't have compression. There wasn't any loud out of the ordinary noise when this happened, other than the obvious misfire.
I had changed the coilpacks to the r8 red tops, and swapped out my plugs about 8k miles ago, so i doubt it's them. Did the HPFP around 15k miles ago, so i doubt it's that, plus i smell fuel while turning it over. If i had to guess i screwed up a valve. Maybe an injector best case scenario, but i dont think so. At the dealer now waiting to hear back from them sometime next week.
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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So about a week ago i got on the onramp to get on the freeway and stepped on the throttle as usual to get up to speed, but now for some odd reason the rpm's dont go past 5,500. Not sure whats wrong. I stay on the throttle but it pretty much stops and levels out at right around 5,500.. i must say i am pretty clueless. i just past 80k not long ago, and everything seemed to be going fine.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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Just noticed this last week when I was driving around at slow speeds with my windows down. If I turn either left or right I can hear a faint little tick or creak for a split second. I can usually make it constantly do it if I swerve back and forth at slow speeds. Sometimes it happens when I hit a little bump as well. It makes me think it has something to do with with either the suspension or maybe some part of the steering components. Little things like this on a new car just annoy me. I don't really feel like taking it in to a dealer because I can almost guarantee they will come back with the typical "couldn't replicate noise" response.
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A major throttle hesitation has developed in this car, that is so bad, sometimes when you put the pedal to the floor it doesn't want to accelerate at all. Feels like the car has a bout 25% power ,it seems to shift very weird also, its like the car is trying to keep the rpms very low. I am not positive but it seems to occur mostly when the car is first started and still cold or on very wet or humid days? It feels like the car is activating the traction control and the throttle plate is not opening all the way at wot?
I am using 5-20 oil. Maybe should go back to 0-20 oil. Cant imagine the sensors are picking up on extra drag from colder thicker oil at that close of a weight? No codes are showing when the car is checked out.
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
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I just passed 3k miles on the OD. Lately, when I'm driving, I'll randomly feel the engine lose power for a split second. It just cuts out and then comes right back. Sometimes it's fairly quick, others it's very noticeable. I buy fuel from good gas stations, and the dealership couldn't find anything and also said they'd never heard of this issue.
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Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
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I was driving home last night and within the 30 min trip, my footwell lights got extremely bright for a split second on two occasions? Not sure whats going on here.......
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00 XLT 4.6 4x4 135k miles - New problem, on accelerating, truck hesitates for a couple of seconds before rpm's pick up. There is no stumble or bogging. It feels like I'm not giving it any throttle at all. And then it kicks in and takes off. It does this from a stop at idle, or at a steady cruise. Its an intermittent problem. No CEL. Air filter and fuel filter are about 3 months old. Haven't done any work to it since. Also, when there is less than a 1/4 tank of fuel, truck sometimes stumbles slightly off idle. Fuel pump starting to go?
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So it looks like my lift pump (low pressure fuel pump and sending unit) is going. Multiple low fuel pressure warnings over last two days and hesitation at low RPMs. Not hearing pump run when I turn the key all the time but no issues starting. About 16,000 miles since last fuel filter change but picked up new filters today at dealer.
Asked about a fuel pump and he quoted PS401 and none available in Canada and had to inquire direct to Ford - 30 day wait on a part that will turn my truck into a brick if not replaced. Can't find a PS401 but I can get a PS 402 out if the USA in 5 days.
Any difference in these? Dealer is an idiot and can't even determine if there is a difference or too lazy to find out for me. I don't even know if I can prime the truck if I change filters at this point and this is a quick change job for me if I had the pump. Going over the system from back to front in the morning.
Don't ask about warranty. Just hit 160,000 KM on my truck.
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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My friend just bought his ISF two weeks ago. It's bolts-on. He has an issue...
While hard accelerating in all modes the car some times shifts @5500 RPM...
What the problem is?
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