So after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
View 9 RepliesHave no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry XLE (4 cyl). The heat will only work when the A/C is on. If A/C is off, air will blow from the vents, but it is not hot. What part needs to be fixed/replaced?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
I'm having issues with my 09 Camry. Yesterday my water pump shoot craps on me. SO this morning I replaced the water pump. After replacing the water pump I noticed that the heat would work only when the car is moving. So I went to the store again and bought a thermostat. Replaced that and the heat still only work when the car is in motion. So I checked the radiator cap it was bad I was able to hold it in my hand and spend it with the other hand. Ok replaced the radiator cap. I let the car sit at idle running and the heat worked shortly then it started to blow cool again. I checked the radiator hoses and the lower hose was cold right along with the thermostat housing.
View 10 Replies97 passat vr6. I only get warm air from the vents when I'm accelerating. As soon as I come to a stop it starts blowing cold air. Does this mean there is air in the system? If so how do I bleed it out?
View 1 Replies5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
My front heat controls work at start up occasionally. The heat will eventually come on in front after 15-30 minutes of the truck running. Needless to say this sucks for defrosting the front window during warm up. The rear controls work fine. I do have a couple that need replacing but the fan control isn't one. Temp & selectors. I've searched but haven't been able to find anything about same issue. Where to start?
View 14 RepliesSo, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
I recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
View 4 RepliesI have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
View 4 RepliesI have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
View 2 RepliesI have a 06 f350 6.0. I'm losing hear at times. My temp gauge is right in the middle like always. As soon as I let off he throttle or come to a stop the heat turns cold and blows out cold air!
View 2 RepliesI got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
We have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L with 170000 miles. The AC had been getting weaker, but now it only works when the car is idling. Which seems really odd???
Started car, after being parked for a while, and the temp was 73F at the dash vent. I figured it would get colder going down the road, but it got up to 90F at the vent. Returned home and let the car idle for a while and the dash temp went down to 80F. Went for another drive and it immediately raised to 90F.
The compressor clutch was engaged and spinning, but the larger metal line at the firewall didn't seem very cold. The smaller line was warm as expected. I added some R134a, but no change at the lines or in the car. We have had issues with the blend flapper and replaced the broken plastic part. You can hear the flapper slap when you rotate the dial from hot to cool, so it seems like it's working.
Could it be the compressor? I think it was only generating 150psi on the high pressure side during idle, but it would go up to 200-225psi when I revved the motor.
Replaced the valve body solenoids, increased pressure to clutch packs 8 clicks, added pentosin, cleared engine light, and the tranny is working perfectly.
Recently my car has been overheating and then when I take it the shop they can't find no problem whatsoever. Also my ac is no longer working. The fans might need to be replaced.
View 5 RepliesI keep getting a warning that my right front headlight is out when it is working just fine. I will turn the car off and when I turn it on again the warning is gone. It's weird that it will show up then disappear for a week and then pop up again. If the light was going out I'd understand but the light has been fine the whole time.
View 1 RepliesI talked to the tuning shop and they said its 700 for everything canadian of course and he said its about 250 hp with stage 1 and he said stage 2 is the same thing unless u get exhaust and downpipe
View 2 RepliesI just recently got a 2001 1.8t jetta. It was leaking coolant and only one fan would come on. Ive fixed the coolant leak. Only the passenger side fan comes on, and the AC blows hot as well. Ive checked the fuses on the battery and they are good.
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