OK, so for the last few days it gets harder and harder to get into 1st, the rest are fine. Now it will not engage at all. If it were cable, shouldn't it also have problems in other gears? Even with the car off and clutch out, 2,3,4,5,and 6 all go in and stay just fine. First gear feels as if there is a physical blockage. Thoughts?
View 6 Repliesi have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a volkswagen jetta 1.8t wolfsburg edition 5speed. While driving i switched from third into fourth gear upon letting the clutch completely out the rpms began to spike and no power was being produced. So I neutralized to the nearest stop and tried shutting my car off and restarting it and then putting it into gear it would not engage in any gear what so ever at all. The clutch then had no pressure or resistance in it when pressing down and lets up slowly.
The motor stilll runs perfectly fine and the actual shifter will move into gears in the gear box but the clutch still has no pressure and doesn't even attempt to catch or engage in any gear. Do i just need to replace the clutch or the intake or the flywheel or what? In addition i have since ran the code runner and nothing comes up besides the intake code but that's because i took the intake off to manually try and engage the clutch into gear witch still did not work.
I'll start this off with a few months ago, I went on a trip and along the way noticed that the car wouldn't get into gear. This happened for a few moments, and solved itself.
Fast forward to a few days ago:
So, my Golf MK4 AUTO 1.6L transmission doesn't want to shift into 4th, sometimes.
One and two are good, but sometimes I get quite a lag in between disengaging 2nd and getting 3rd also.
Furthermore, sometimes I get 4th 'semi' engaging, where the engine is revving too much to be fully in gear, but I get power to the wheels and accelerate (slowly).
I did a VAGCOM scan and got the old:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I also had a CEL on my dash, which I cleared with the VAGCOM. This removed the light, but of course the error still persists.
I've been reading around, and some people have said the issue is the TCM, but some people have had similar problems and a TCM replacement has not fixed this.
(Just btw, my TCM model is 01M927733LK).
And some people have had good results with solenoid replacements. So, I was thinking of doing a ATF flush, just because it was recommend on some posts, but won't necessarily fix the problem.
Contacted a garage to do this for me (never flushed automatic tranny before) and mentioned the VAGCOM codes, and he said this is a slip code.
So, now I'm not really sure what to do to fix it. Are the solenoids interchangeable? Am I able to switch two gears' solenoids to see if it moves the issue to another gear, proving its the solenoid?
I have a problem with automatic tiptronic transmission my golf MK4 TDI 1.9 2001, it dosent engage on 4th gear when i am driving, the codes that I received for this foults:
01316 - ABS CONTROL MODULE
49-10 No communication- Intermittent
00652 - Gear monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
I have 1500m on my 6m and all of a sudden it feels like it take more effort to move the shifter from neutral to hear and vice versa. Specially first gear but the others as well.
View 12 RepliesSo, For the past week or so, I've been noticing that my clutch has been getting harder and harder to depress when I go to shift. I only have 1500 miles on the car and picked it up 3 weeks ago. When I took delivery, the cars clutch was silky smooth.
This "tightness" is almost as bad as my 6MT clutch on my old subaru (which needed to be replaced because the spring on the pressure plate tightened). What could be making the clutch feel so heavy? I'm not too familiar with the VW clutch. Is it hydraulically actuated? If so, maybe the fluid is low or leaking?
I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
View 3 RepliesI have 2012 VW GTI manual with 34k miles and on the freeway I noticed that it's becoming harder and harder to select gears. Few minutes later and by the time I got off the freeway, at the light I couldn't engage 1st gear, nor 2nd, somehow managed the 3rd and brought it home. So if the car is on, I cannot engage gears, if I try the first I can feel some forward motion, like it's trying to engage. If I turn of the car, I can shift through all the gears. I have noticed before this happened that the clutch feel is very soft and spongy and my gear shifter had a lot of loose play. Since I can shift when the car is off, I don't think the problem is worn shifter bearing. Clutch never slipped and I could turn of the car engage 1st or 2nd gear, start it with depressed clutch and go normally so I think the clutch disk is fine.
I am out of 3 year 36k miles, but still have the powertrain warranty. Dealer told me that if it's the pressure plate (most likely) then I would be out of warranty but if it was slave cylinder then I would be covered. I don't want to take a tow truck just for them to tell me that it's definetly the pressure plate, what do you think???
My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
View 2 RepliesProblems on my '05 Tour. I have nearly 800 miles on it and it has visited the svc. dept. twice already. First because the Triptonic was hesitating, 3rd gear would not engage. The service manager beat the snot out of it and verified there is some hesitation. His answer was "vw has not received the new software to correct this problem, so don't use your Triptonic".
Well after driving it for a week I notice the shift points are all over the place. Gears 1-5 fly by and I am not past 2k rpms doing 30mph and in 6th gear, so I take it back again! Do you know how hard a lane change is doing 30 mph in this heavy truck and gas costing as much as it does! Not only that, but when your in 5 or 6 the car bucks...moves kind of in a jerky motion, and I only put premium gas so I know it's not the gas! Also I have this rattling noise coming out of the cluster when your foot is on the brake and your in drive.
Just wondering to diagnose the noise my manual 2002 is making when I engage a gear.
Generally, it'll clank every single time I put the gear in gear. I.e. clutch down (quiet), shift into gear (clank), lift clutch up (clank).
Very annoying; has been happening basically since I bought the car (but obviously not when I test drove it!)
I do not think it's a motor mount, especially since I wouldn't think that moving the gear into gear (before lifting clutch back up) would cause the motor to shift enough to make the mount clank. If at all...
Anyway, here is a link to a YouTube video I've uploaded. Every time you hear a clank, I'm simply lifting the clutch to engage the gear. I do this quite a few times going forward and backward. [URL] .....
I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
View 9 RepliesLeft the car for a couple of days outside... and tried to start it latter at -38 C. No matter how convincing I was - the engine wouldn't run. Well, now both batteries are dead... I have no luck in engaging the gear lever into N position so we can tow it into a flatbad truck... any one knows how to do it with no power? Also is there a way to manually open up a trunk of the car?
There is seems to be some weird electrical issue... while car just sits in a parking lot - batteries are drained out of juice... if its driven even for a small period of time - everything seems to be ok. Thats a first real let down from this car.
had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
View 2 RepliesI have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
Our cars shifter does not engage properly to Drive position. It comes down to D but the car just revs up or does not pick speed when we hit gas. we have to adjust/move it up and down to engage it. other position seems to be working fine. what could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesToday i tried to start my 07 Prius, all the normal start up lights came on, including the master warning light, but the master warning light didn't go off. No other abnormal lights were on. When i put the car in reverse to back out, it wouldn't engage in the gear, it wouldn't back up. When tried to turn it off, it wouldn't respond to the power button, it wouldn't go off. I kept trying and eventually it did turn off.
The other thing that wasn't normal was, with the power off, when i opened the door, from the outside to get in, or from the inside to get out, the car started making the warning beep with the red car door open light flashing. Close the door and it stopped.
I have hardly been driving the car since the end of June, i take it out about once a week to keep the battery charged, and it's been working fine. However, about a month and a half ago, i accidentally left the overhead light on and it was on for a few days, and then the battery would not start the car. Auto Club came out and jumped it and since then, it starts OK