Golf IV R32 :: Hard Shifting To 6th Gear - Tinny Rattle At Startup
Jul 25, 2012
Third owner with about 81k, sometimes when I go to shift into sixth it seems like there is something stopping me about half way into normal position. Normally I have to go back to neutral and then try again. I don't have this issue with the other gears.
second question, I've noticed under deceleration mostly or going slow over bumps that I can hear a tin style rattle. Now the last couple days when I start the car with or without AC running there is a constant rattle making me think that whatever was rattling over bumps is about to make a run for it when I hit a big bump or something.
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I have had my 2010 Tiguan SE for about a month now and I have noticed a sound when it shifts that sounds like a tinny grind or rattle. This happens mostly in "D" not "S" mode and at the lower RPMs. Is it normal?
I took it to my dealer and of course they said they heard nothing, but it doesn't seem like something a new car should sound like.
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I got a awful tinny rattle sound that comes on sporadically around 3k RPM. It tends to only do it at through a small RPM range (2750 - 3250 rpm approx) and when pressing the throttle 1/2 way down or more (but not when less). This sound is exacerbated when I had the flapper mod which is a large contributor to why i went back to stock.
I am thinking the sound is caused by a heat shield, but without getting underneath and having a second person blipping the throttle, its hard to diagnose. Are these cars known for rattling heat shields? Is there a particularly troublesome shield that I should look at first ?
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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Car in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
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04 F150 4.6 ltr Has a tinny rattle during acceleration . Sounds like 2 hammerheads in a washing machine....
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Took my car to a shop today after I'd been experiencing a "tinny clunking" sounding rattle. I was worried it might be my catalytic converter and after couple of bumps on the exhaust system while on the lift, the tech thought this was indeed the case. Replacing the catalytic converter could be a $1500+ job from what I hear if replaced by toyota.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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It all started after it being cold outside it's hard to shift into second gear when i first start up the car, and then after a couple shifts like that i get a notchy shift. after a while of driving it all disappears.
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I just got my 08 Camry 4cyl 2 months ago. I noticed that when I start the car up and put the car into drive or reverse within 5 seconds of starting it up, it will jerk a lot. It seems like it's dropping it into gear hard. I checked this morning to see if the car is revving up when I do that and it is. It is sitting at 2000 rpm on startup. Is this normal and do I just have to wait a little bit before putting it in gear?
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So, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
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Have a 2000 expedition with 84,000 miles. Tranny seems to shift hard from first to second gear. Its been 24,000 miles since my last dealer tranny service. Thinking of getting a new service now before the recommended 30,000 manual recommendation. Whats happening?
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Just started getting this noise recently when I start the car. It's coming from the engine bay and only occurs briefly for maybe a second, mainly when the engine is warm. It's a rattle sound. Other than the rattle, the car runs great..
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My 2002 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 is shifting hard from first to second. It has 120,000 miles on it. Should I do a filter and fluid change or just work with the bands?
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I have an '03 AWD, automatic Santa Fe and it started shifting really hard into 2nd gear when going uphill recently. It also seems to take a while to shift into 2nd from 1st, but it doesn't bang like it does when downshifting.
In other threads on this site is seems like either the throttle position sensor or shift solenoids may be responsible for this. What's causing it, and how to go about fixing it?
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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Our 93 Ford F150 with <100,000 miles had no transmission problems until a squirrel built a nest in it and chewed through some of the wires. It wouldn't start and what a surprise when we lifted the hood. It chewed through the EEC Test wires which have been reattached, through the cruise control wires (all but two have been reattached.
The remaining two are chewed to the box and can't be attached), two other wires next to these that were reconnected and chewed completely off is a part #E53B-14A624-0 with the stubs of two red wires.
The E53B was lying under the truck. After reattaching the wires listed it started but now lugs along and shifts hard into first gear. After that it's OK most of the time but it has surged unexpectedly when making a turn. I've been told the cruise doesn't need to be rewired completely so don't know if it's the problem (can the cruise be left with two wires cut off) or if it's the E53B part or something else we can't see.
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The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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