Golf IV R32 :: Handbrake Holds The Car
Aug 16, 2010
Guess my cables have stretched. I just adjusted my handbrake cables and I noticed no matter how strong I apply the handbrake and it holds the car however on both driver's and passenger side the outside pad does not touch the rotor. I'm guessing that the inside pad moves and holds enough, however, i would like the brakes to operate properly. when is the handbrake applied should both pads apply pressure to the rotor?
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How strong is the handbrake? Can it lock up the rear tires while driving? Pulled pretty hard but no go
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I buy 2013 Lexus LX570. I would like to know if i can watch a movie on the front screen while driving without handbrake. Can i download some manuals, wiring diagrams or service manual to know how to do this.
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Is there anyway to disable this in vag-com? I am getting annoyed, i have to move the car a few metres every night, and i cant move it without putting my seatbelt on, which is a good idea, but its silly. Can turn it off?
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What the problem is? still drive-able?
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I just purchased a 2005 GT Hatch 5 speed. I've noticed that when I up-shift, it holds the revs. I can live with it if I have to though. This is my 4th car that's a standard so I doubt its user error. Anyway, if you guys think its a feature that I can shut off that would be cool. If not no worries.
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In my 2001 Passat, the handle / compartment above the handbrake has a problem - it can be rotated (as to reveal the compartment), but when I want to put it back to horizontal position, I can't, it always leaves a distance of 4-5 cm. I took out the black compartment to see what's inside, and I found out that it gets stuck because when I push the handle down, it doesn't rotate the shaft that holds the teeth (which are in charge of the several "steps" in the handle position) down so that the handle will be able to be put to a full horizontal position. Also, I found a orange-yellow-semi transparent plastic thingy near the teeth of the compartment part, and it was loose, it appears to be broken. Looking for a detailed (exploded) view of the part assembly (like in a Haynes manual)?
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I accidentally drove my 3.0 1988 aerostar cargo van for about 400 ft with the handbrake engaged and I lost 3rd and 4th gears. I still have 1st 2nd and reverse. Is my tranny shot or is there any way to possibly try to salvage it? Band adjustment possibly make a difference? I am looking at the possibility of purchasing a used tranny. One is from a 1990 4.0 4wd LWB and one is from a 1994 explorer 4wd.
Can I make either of these work or will I run into too many issues? What other tranny options can I use and from which years/models of vehicles? What changes would I need to do to make them work? I understand the 4.0 awd has a better trans than the 3.0. I know the Ranger, Bronco, Explorer and Aerostar have the a4ld, but which ones will work on an 88? Can't afford a rebuild.
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This is for my 2005 SF with the 2.7L.
My AC system no longer holds a charge and I'm looking to replace the parts myself and have a professional service it after I finish.
I'm looking for recommendations for reliable brand of compressor. Also, other parts I should be looking at replacing to get another 9 years out of it.
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I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
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I've been trying to locate the source of the noise that is coming under the car. Specifically below the handbrake. Like something is lose, took the car to a shop to have it inspected, checked the exhaust, and there was nothing there, all clamps there and screws.
It only happens most of the time when the car is cold and it feels all the way from the hand brake to the stick shift. Sounds like a rattle like something is about to go off from the car but I cant imagine what could be. Couldn't replicate the noise at the shop, only when you are driving and the car is in inclined it rattles really bad until the car gets back to the normal position. Specifically in 1st gear .
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04 F350 TD AC stopped cooling.
Compressor engages
Static pressure is ZERO
Running pressures are close to ZERO
Apparently I have lost refrigerant, but I see no signs of leaking (oil) and vacuum is holding at 30.
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I recently melted (due to my own ignorance) the backshell that holds the low beam light bulb in place. I can see that the backshell is removeable since there's it looks like there's 3 screws that hold it in place. The headlight would have to be baked apart, but I already know how to do that. My question is: is there anywhere that sells this part, or does the housing assembly have to be bought whole? I was also looking at the spyder lights that claim they are projectors, but I'm wondering how they compare to regular OEM output. This is for a hybrid btw
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After I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
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I notice on cold days my transmission hesitates to shift and holds 2nd - 3rd for a long time before finally shifting. Once the car warms , all is fine. Will and what could the dealer do for this? I would like it looked after before my warranty runs out.
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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here is my problem on a 02 passat. on the remote, the little siver hook that holds your spare keys broke off. i had a new spare remote that had never been programed. so what i did was to simply remove the blank key and replace it with the cut key. also i took out the computer chip (i guess that is what it is called) and put it in the new remote. so i have the same key with the same chip that has always worked only in a different fob. BUT when i start the car it will only run for a sec. or two then it will shut off and i will get 'imoblizer disabled' ???? everything else on the remote workes. this makes NO since to me at all and is driving me crazy.
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The little rubber post that holds the gas door closed has broken off. I'm worried that fixing this will require replacing some type of cabling system that connects the release button in the driver's door to the gas door and THAT sounds really expensive. I've got 52K on the car with an extended warranty. Think this might be covered?
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I just noticed recently, that while accelerating, the needle on my boost gauge never really holds. It flutters back and forth between psi throughout the acceleration, rather than holding. This also occurs while I am idle and have the A/C on, the needle flutters back and forth. I have the stage I set-up Revo software which I have had for a while.
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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My 26 row 6.0L cooler should arrive today. I was going to use the advanced auto parts discount code to order more Mobil 1 Tranny fluid. How many more quarts the 6.0L holds than the standard V10 tranny cooler?
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