So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
View 1 RepliesSo my R's been FWD for a while now and I've been thinking with 147k on the clock it's the pump that failed but I want to be sure that's it before I buy the rebuild kit. A friend and I hooked up his vag-com yesterday to test the pump. We got a signal to the controller and could hear the pump run from sitting inside the car but it was very very quiet. From what he told me is that it should be louder like a fuel pump. So we pulled up the voltage readings and that's what you can see in the photo. It's only seeing .70v and normal functioning voltage should be between 11-15v.
Afterwards I stopped at my work and got it on a hoist to check all connectors in the back(controller and pump). None have any corrosion or moisture in them but I cleaned them up with some Di-electric cleaner for good measure. Would a bad pump give a voltage reading that low? If not then why isn't the pump getting the required voltage?
So yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
What is that called? Mass air flow sensor wiring harness? I google 2011 vw gti MAF wiring harness, and i get nothing, or crap thats almost not related to what im looking for. While I was installing my intake, I accidently cut half of the wire to my MAF located behind the battery. Why I was cutting, dont ask, i was impatient. Anyways, what is it called? I want to replace my MAF and the wiring that leads to it.
View 1 RepliesI plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I have an early 99 F250. The a/c compressor stopped working. Have checked pressures, switches, freon etc. Found the switch in the dash is not getting power to send to the compressor. Where the feed for this switch is? I have checked all fuses, all good. The manual does not show a relay as being an a/c relay, so I am stumped without taking it somewhere now but I would like to avoid that.
View 7 RepliesMy tail lights parking lights and dash board lights stop working my turning signals work my brake lights work and my headlights work fine I checked all fuses are good I even switched out the headlight switch with a new one and nothing. What can this problem be?
View 14 RepliesI have checked the fuses for the Hazard and the Turn Signals. Both look fine. I tried replacing the turn signal flasher (which was a task in itself). After all of this it is still not working. What else could it be? Simple short?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 1999 F-350 V10 super duty. The alt was over charging and the gauges stopped working. Replacing the alt, the guages still don't work, and the new thing is the charge light and selt belt light comes on. The fuses 29 (5amp)and 30(30Amp) which are supposed to be key on hot only are hot at the same time. With these on, it causes a drain killing the battery. Also if the truck is started, the lights go out, but when you try to turn the vehicle off, it stays running, one with the battery disconnected. The only way to shut it down is pull the fuse box power fuse, 50(amp)Some one had been in the dash before we got this vehicle and busted, burned out or removed the check engine light. I can read codes and their vehicle runs fair and does operate. Could this be a dash board? Also this problem appears when the truck is sitting, and the key removed nothing on. No fuses are blown either.
View 3 RepliesI am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
So I have an 04 F250 Super Duty 6.0L and suddenly the turn signals and hazards stopped working. First I replaced the switch on the steering column...no luck. Today I replaced the flasher relay under the dash panel (the blue one)...still no luck. I remember checking fuses in the fuse box but don't remember which ones I checked but I didn't see anything obvious. I also took a quick look under the dash at all the wires for any anomalies...nothing. I'm lost... What to do next!?
View 1 RepliesMy father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
View 5 RepliesI'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
Yesterday the car was fine going to work and most of the way home. It was raining pretty hard and I went through a large puddle then right after I started to hear a pretty loud noise. It sounded like it was coming from the middle of the car, more so in between the main seats and was vibrating my seat a little bit. It only happened on mediumish acceleration, during low acceleration it wasn't there at all. Also the car still felt fine. Then when I got off main road I was on a street that wasn't super wet cause of all the trees, the sound stopped.
Here is a link to the sound, you might have to turn up the volume because it is a little low. You can hear it best around 14 sec: [URL].....
So today I jacked it up to see if I could see anything and I found oil all around the haldex stuff. Here are some pics I took of the leak. There is also a bright yellow spot you can see through a hole. Not sure what that means. The haldex service was done, maybe 5-10k miles ago, I'd have to look it up to figure out exact time. In one of the pics you might notice black silicone around one of the plugs, this was because when I did get it serviced for the first time, someone before stripped the bolt so the mechanic put that around it to hold it in. It still looks like it is on there pretty well so I don't think that is the issue.
This isn't a big deal but I noticed this plastic part isn't bolted down, I really don't think the noise would be from this but posted just in case.
I searched but couldn't find any DIY on how to remove/install the haldex controller. Is it straight forward or any special tools needed? I know its very tight in there?
View 3 RepliesI will be getting the DDM HID kit and wondering about the necessity for a wiring harness as it seems many are running without it. I am concerned the not having it will somehow damage the car (based on researching HID's in general) but loving the plug and play idea of running without one.
View 2 Replies I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
Looking for the wiring diagram for the blue connector in the overhead console? This would be for a '13 S without sunroof. And w the part numhat isber for it, that might come in handy too. I've searched and it seems like most of the answers were check with a meter to see, but trying every possible combination of conditions, lights on/off, doors open/closed, key in/out has left me frustrated and confused, and I'd rather be certain, than keep doing hit or miss.
View 3 RepliesI need to wire up a trailer lighting connector for my 2000 Buick Century but I can't find the wiring run for it. Where would I find them to be able to tap into them?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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