Golf IV R32 :: Got Cooling System Performance Light
Mar 15, 2012
So i got a cooling system performance light and haven't had time to change the sensor out along with the housing... But
Last night i was stopped to see if it was still there after a little driving and it was indeed. So i figured i would try and clear the code to see if that work and it did. I cleared the code and almost instantly with the car still idling, the ticking sound went away.
What could have cause the ticking sounds at all in relation to the cooling system?
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Last night on my way to go get hammered the check engine light popped on...
"Cooling System Performance"
I have read a few different post, and the last one I read referred to his radiator fans. I know for a fact one of them isn't working and I haven't replaced it yet because it hasn't advisable effected my driving.
So my question is what could be causing this? Also I'm not sure if this matters but my a/c doesn't work either.
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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Have an '07 2.0T w/92K on it. Check eng light came on over the weekend. Performance is fine etc. Went to AutoZone just to find the general area of the the trouble code since there's no one with a VAG Com nearby. The code is as the title indicates. For the last 5 months the temp gauge has been moving 1-2 ticks to the left (cooler) of the normal 200 degrees, then it will go back to 200 etc. It previously has always stayed on 200 once it warmed up. Does this sound like a thermostat?
If it is, I'm wondering if I could save some money while they were in there to go ahead and change the TB as well? From what I've researched the thermostat is in same area. I was planning on doing the TB at around 100-110k so while it would be earlier than planned I'd do it if it meant saving a bit from the combo work.
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This code came up on my car, what it means or what part needs to be replaced.
008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
[Code] .....
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I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
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This morning (cold outside) I started my 2011 Golf TDI and the cooling system light started flashing.
The owners manual says to contact my dealer if this happens. I originally thought that it was because the coolant was low, but the manual states that if the coolant is low, the light will be solid.
I scanned the car with my VAG-COM and there were no related faults found.Perhaps my owners manual is wrong and it really is because the coolant was low? (that's how my mk3 was).
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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Like the title states, I've got P2181 (coolant system performance) CEL on again. I've had this code before and finally had everything serviced. It was off for 5k miles! I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this on the previous occurrences, and was 99% certain it was the thermostat due to the coolant temp dropping a notch or so when engine braking* on the interstate for more than a few seconds.
The current issue is mainly that the car will not heat up quite as fast, but it will not go lower from engine braking for a good chunk of time. I'm getting fairly poor MPG compared to what I was getting a month or two ago. The major changes are winter fuel blends and winter tires, which I'm sure affect the MPG a little, but I would hope not as much as I am seeing. Old average was around 27mpg combined and 30 or so for mostly highway, now I'm getting 24 tops. This is likely due to engine temps not being up to allow for most efficient fuel burning.
First plan is to change the CTS and see if that will fix it. If the code comes back after that, I'll have to check the thermostat and coolant mixture, but I wouldn't expect it to last only 5k miles.
Current: 105k
Thermostat and coolant changed at 100k
Water pump at 80k
CTS sometime around 70k
Engine braking lowering temp due to no fuel being ignited and coolant still circulating through the system if thermostat open.
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I have a 2004 Saturn VUE, 3.5 L, V6 (212 CI), AWD, with 164,000 miles that I purchased used in Michigan from a GM Dealer about a year back.
The air condition on this VUE works great as long as the vehicle is moving on the road. When in idle and parked, the cooling performance appear to get reduced and soon it will blow not so cold air until the vehicle start to move and gradually the performance will get better and perform well. How did you get it resolved?
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Was just mulling over redoing part of the exhaust system on my truck. As it stands the original y-pipe is still intact but some bozo reduced the rest of the system down to 2.25 inch with an ancient glasspack for a muffler. Maybe he thought it would net some kind of benefit, maybe he was just throwing together parts from his backyard. Either way it's going, I'm planning to keep the Y-pipe but step it up to 3 inch with a Flowmaster chambered muffler and I just suddenly wondered if the position of the muffler in the system affects performance. If I put it directly after the Y-pipe the exhaust pulses would hit it sooner...
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Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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I'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I have 2 70's trucks, one with a 360 and one with a 390. Which I don't think makes any difference. The problem is, I experienced poor operation in that after driving for a while engine showed symptoms of reduced performance and stalling and shortly stalling all together. It would not restart even after changing fuel filters and checking pressure. It has a two barrel holley. I took the top off the carb to check for debris in the jets. What I found was a clear jelly like substance. I pulled it out and set it in the open air. After a few minutes it evaporated. I concluded it was something like alcohol created by the vacuum in the carb. After that the truck ran fine until it happened again a few days later. Always after sitting it would restart. When it did not I found the substance in the carb. Now I have the same problem with the other truck. It sounds like a few of the cylinders are starving for fuel and the carb is all but new with twin fuel filters. Ignition is fine on both trucks after hooking up the scope. What is this crap and how to get rid of it?
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My dealers charges $60 for this. Sounds like all they do is drain the radiator and refill with new anti-freeze. I recall when it used to mean drain the radiator, refill with clean water, run the engine, flush, and then refill with new anti-freeze. If all they do is drain the radiator and refill, I guess I can buy the anti-freeze and do it myself and save about $45. Or is there more to it than the service manager described?
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So CEL came on a few weeks ago as it does here and there so got it scanned today and it said "cooling system too lean" could it just be the mods throwing the light. car is tuned so i thought cel wasn't suppose to come on and no mods to the cooling system beside cold air intake..
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My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
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