My gas filler keeps cutting the pump off and car runs bad in certain situations. I'm a vrt btw so I have eliminated the Sai crap and have the n80 solenoid detached from the vac lines but still hooked in electrically. EVAP Charcoal canister Delete....
View 17 RepliesEver since i have had my car i have had a slight problem re-fueling. The pressure inside the tank doesn't seem to vent correctly and the filler neck seems to back up with fuel and shuts off the pump (too much back pressure) when i'm only ~30% full. I can elevate the problem by re-fuelling slow enough so that the pressure can vent back through the filler neck but it gets rather annoying to sit at the pump for 10 minutes re-fueling.
View 15 RepliesI recently replaced my SAI pump rivets with stainless bolts so everything is nice and tight. However, the pump will randomly cut on and run for a few seconds while driving... i notice it usually when I come to a stop, such as at a stop light. I would assume this is because there is an air leak somewhere in the SAI system... sound likely? Maybe purge valve? I haven't yet had it pressure tested in case there is something I can easily to to rule out most potential sources.
View 8 RepliesI have APR Stage I+ and love it. However, I've noticed at around 6000 rpm I'm getting what feels like the fuel pump cutting out like you would experience when you hit redline. Of course, stock redline is higher than 6000 and APR Stage I+ redline is even higher. So this shouldn't be happening.
View 24 RepliesI recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
View 2 RepliesHaving trouble filling gas tank, the pump nozzle keeps cutting off. Have to fill by dribbling the fuel in until filled. What the problem might be?
View 5 RepliesThe SAI pump (part number 021 959 253 B) on my 97 Passat continues to run intermittently after the car is turned off, eventually draining the battery. How do I fix?
View 3 RepliesThe last 3 times I have tried to fill up, I have had about 1/3 of a tank. Tthe pump runs for ~15 -20 litres and then shuts off. I cannot fill any further. I have 9/16ths in the tank now, 360km to empty. I will phone the dealer tomorrow. 42000km now.
View 29 RepliesMy plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
View 7 RepliesDoes traction control can be disabled on the C? I will be driving this car through the New England winter/ and just wanted to prepare myself for the worst possible scenario (ie not being able to make it up a slippery inclined road). I will be getting a set of winter tires which should work with the tire slip but doubt that will save me in all situations. I also was wondering how aggressive the traction control is compared to a GEN II or GEN III Prius. I was reading that the GEN III allowed more wheel slip compared to the GEN II which made it more drivable in the winter.
How to disable the stability/traction control.
These steps must be completed within 60 seconds.
Step 1: Set the ignition switch to ON, not READY. To do this press the power button two times, without pressing the brake pedal.
Step 2: While the transmission is still in park (P), fully press the gas pedal two times.
Step 3: Apply the parking brake to ensure that the vehicle will not move during this step. Put the transmission in neutral (N) and fully press the gas pedal two times.
Step 4: Put the transmission back in park (P) and fully press the gas pedal two times. The car will display "!Car!" in the upper left corner of the LCD screen.
Purchased a 2006 prius not too long ago with just over 100k miles.
I like the car, I average about 42-44 mpg. It is really for my commuting. The question I have is it seems like my brake pump runs all the time. When I take my foot off the brakes, it runs, when im in a drive-thru, my battery drains super quickly, however if i put in park instead of leaving it in drive while in the drive-thru, it does not.
My only thought is there is something wrong with my brake pump and the way it drains batteries.
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
View 12 RepliesHaving problems with gx 460 in turns or fast lane changes on the freeway. I'm worried about the stability and tipping over since the GX seems higher and skinnier than other SUVs in its class.
View 10 RepliesMy 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
View 2 RepliesWent to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
So far, I am very impressed with the ride and body tightness of my new Santa Fe. I do hear an occasional groan, or creak, but only in the harshest ride situations. Is this a normal characteristic of this vehicle, or am I just lucky? Of course, the ride is different from my Genesis, but the comfort is not a letdown in any way. I'm just hoping that this comfort will continue in the Santa Fe and not deteriorate with time.
View 1 RepliesYesterday when I started up the engine it cut out and died on me a number of times. The engine would start but it would not hold the idle for more than about 10 seconds, then it would quickly drop down to about 500rpm and die. It felt like it was starved for fuel. I pressed on the accelerator to try and give it more gas, but it was a bit unresponsive. Car did this for about 5 or 6 times and then on the last time I was able to give it gas and keep the rpm up around 2,000, then it went back to working normally.
Car was warmed up and it had been parked for about an hour after a prior 30 minutes of normal driving.
There were no error codes thrown up or messages on the dash. Is this a sign of something that I need to be concerned about? Where would I even start looking for a problem? If this a something that would be covered under warranty I want find it sooner than later so I can get it fixed while I still have coverage.
Car is a 2012 MK6 GTI DSG with 17,000 mi.
I have noticed this problem off and on over the course of the last year and a half. Last night we had a ridiculous rain here in Longview, TX. and my power cut out at my apt. I decided to go to the girlfriends house, and on the way, kinda took it easy, just because I am paranoid about hydrolock due to having AEM intake.
The problem only happens at WOT. I did this once and then really took it easy the rest of the way there. The engine really seems to cut out though, and the car bucks like a bronco.
Get to her house, park it, hang there for a couple of hours. Driving home I just took it easy, the rain was done, and it was fairly late. The esp light came on 1-2 minutes into the ride home, and stayed on all the way there.
Parked, slept, started up for work the next morning. Dry. No problems at all.
Now what I am wondering is if maybe some water is getting into a connector perhaps grounding out a circuit? And since the ESP light is coming on, maybe the haldex connector? I know there have been threads about ate up connectors due to corrosion, but I don't know if that could throw the system off so much as to cause the engine to "choke".
Currently the car has 75k miles on her.
I'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
View 6 RepliesSometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesMy Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
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