Golf IV R32 :: Fuel Vapor Smell And Faulty Fuel Lever Sensor?
Apr 28, 2011
During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
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R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
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1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
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I have an 06 sonata 2.4l--last week the CEL came on so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was p0455 which is a large vapor leak in fuel assembly. We tried tightening the gas cap and resetting the code with a scanner but it came back on a day or two later. I have never overfilled my tank and i do not smell gas anywhere. the only real symptom (maybe non related)is my speedometer , it works but it is just a little slow to react when increasing or decreasing speed.---my gas mileage seems to be normal.We got under the car and looked around and couldn't notice any obvious tears in any lines -- should i try buying a new gas cap?--I was thinking it may be speed sensor but my mechanic said if it was the speed sensor , my tranny should be shifting funny , my trans shifts fine. I am at a loss and don't want to have to go to dealer with this.
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1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
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When smelling the oil in the filler cap, it smells a bit like unburnt fuel. Is that normal? It is not super strong but noticeable.
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2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
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For about a week now, i've been smelling raw gas near the gas tank. Now i have a gas cap light on??
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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R32 turbo had new forged internals to get rid of old set up l & changed tune 4" maf open filter I am now getting smell of fuel inside car only when I am stationary at junctions etc.
BTW walbro in line fuel pump.. vagom no faults .. + did not get this before with stock airbox with turbo set up..
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In the last 24 hours my fuel level sensor is failing intermittently. After filling yesterday the fuel gauge went to zero and the MFD read "---" for any range or fuel calculations. Rebooted the car ( ) and it came back on, then off again. today it seems to be working, but I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
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I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
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Having trouble with the fuel level readings in their t-reg? When I fill mine up it shows as full but drops to 3/4 of a tank within 10 miles. Then it reads fine for about 300 or so miles and then drops to empty in about 20 or 30 miles. When I fill it back up it still has 6 or 7 gallons left. And yes, I am using 91 octane gas.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 truck -- it was stalling out (which was diagnosed as a faulty fuel pump), so I had the dang thing replaced. But nearly 6 months later, it's randomly stalling out again when I put it in reverse or stop at a light.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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Unknowingly bought a salvaged 2007 Honda Fit about a year ago that has run fine but recently begun to emit a vapor smell of what my mechanic ids as benzene. His cleaning did not work and a reputable detail outfit passed on the problem, saying if a cleaning didn't do it their methods won't either. The scent is not strong - being a geezer I can't even register it. But it's my son's car and he has a 1-year old who I don't think needs to be inhaling it. Cleaner spray by rebuilders? A fuel system problem?
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
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