Golf IV R32 :: Fuel Pressure Drops In Seconds
Mar 17, 2013
This problem just cost me a new starter and flywheel, cuz after cranking my engine so many times the starter mess up the flywheel teths, anyways, i install a fuel gauge and i find out that my pressure drops in seconds, like i turn the key on (pos ii) and but the time i get out the car to the engine bay to look at the gauge, the pressure is almost ZERO
When I open the door the fuel pump primes and built pressure, when i turn the key i heard the pump primes too, but why does the pressure drops so fast?
I have an aeromotive fpr, and a bosch in line pump, turbo set up and 550 cc injectors( brand new )...
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L v6 that I recently charged the AC in. The engine was rebuilt not to long ago so the AC was completely recovered (bought it from a friend), so I know I started fresh. I am not by any means a novice mechanic but, just dabbling into the AC world and have watched a ton of how to videos, and what not.
I went out and bought a set of manifold gauges as well as a vacuum pump. I do have the rear air on this one so it takes (correct me if im wrong) 56oz of refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum of 28 (mercury?) and it held it for a good hour so, I am pretty sure no leaks. I went ahead and charged the system... Compressor kicked on like normal, air got cold, and everything seemed to be going just like it should be. I went by just a random r134a ambient pressure chart NOT from ford.
I thought great this is going to be like new! Well, now the problem i'm having is in the mornings at say 65-85 degrees it blows ice cold. Once the sun gets higher in the sky, and it gets up to 95-100, it doesn't seem to be able to keep up, even driving for miles and miles. I noticed the rear air evaporater low side, doesn't seem to feel very cold either. Does this mean I might be over charged/under charged?
I have a video of the pressures at 2000 RPM, AC set to "max", both front and rear fans set to highest setting, windows down. At 31 seconds, the pressure drop is because I let off the throttle and let it idle for a bit, so you can see those pressures.
Copy of 04 explorer ac status - YouTube....
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Working on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
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I have an 03 Explorer that had a starting issue. Long story short, it had no fuel pressure. So after testing the relay, I switched out the pump with an Airtex unit . All seemed fine...for a while.
Became hard to start again, checked Schrader valve with the key on, and not running, no pressure. Strange though, it would run.
So got the fuel pressure gauge on it. Turn the key and pressure will go to about 5-10psi and then drop to zero. Turn key off and on again, up to 5-10psi, then drop to zero. Turn the key to start and pressure goes up to 10psi, then starts, then goes to 30 while running and you can drive it around. Shut off motor and pressure goes down to zero.how the sending unit is supposed to hold fuel pressure and not release it? Is there some kind of check valve in the sending unit assembly that can be cleaned or does it need a whole sending unit with another pump? I already spent the $100 for the pump, and it is working if you can drive it!
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177,000 miles, fuel pump was replaced just before I purchased it a few weeks ago. Truck has been running like new until today when it started doing this completely out of the blue. If you watch the video, the sound is not off, the tach is moving independently of the sound of the actual revs. Occasionally when doing this, the fuel gauge drops to zero. Thinking this is an electrical issue somewhere.
YouTube.....
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Four days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
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I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
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1993 accord LX- Thought I had the problem solved by taking the 6 small port plugs out of the emissions system and cleaning up all the buildup plus opening the ports back up that were plugged.
When I put a vacuum gauge on the black rubber hose going from the control box to the EGR valve there is an initial buildup of vacuum upon acceleration but within seconds it drops off to zero. I switched control boxes and used one my brother had from his 91 accord he parted out and still had the same result.
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So after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
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so my car doesnt want to start so i am going to check a few things.
first how do i check my fuel pressure or the location?
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My 2011 tdi has 18k on it and yesterday the glow plug squiggle on the dask lit up and started flashing. At this point the car had no power so i pulled over and called vw. They were very prompt and got me towed to a dealer but the dealer was unable to find anything wrong even though the malfunction threw a code. I just finished a three hundred mile trip after leaving the dealership and the car worked perfect.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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I have lost fuel pressure within 10 minutes of a fill up. I have an APR Stage2+ set up. I have added octane booster . Fault codes are showing loss of pressure. Is it possible my HPFP rebuild has taken after like 15K miles?:bang head: Also could be clogged fuel filter or injector I am aware.
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I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
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Getting a fuel pressure to low fault code. What could be wrong! 2010 GLI....
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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Where is the fuel pressure regulator on a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV. It's nowhere on the fuel rail.
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I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
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There is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
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