Golf IV R32 :: Fuel Line Slip-On Connector
Jan 24, 2010
I was changing the fuel filter and I got it all done, started the car and heard a pop and the car died. the line that goes from the tank to the filter keeps popping off the filter... i can pull it off with my hands.. the other one is fine but the fuel line to the fuel filter isnt grabbing that barb on the filter. its not the filters problem cause it now does it with my old one too...
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Today i came back from a long drive around 250km. After 1 hour i again started the car it drove well for 2 minute then suddenly engine conked off wasn't restarting i knew it was a fuel related issue. Then I smelled petrol got out of the car saw pool of petrol but it wasn't leaking i removed the panel in my boot and to my horror i found the fuel line connector was unattached to the fuel pump.
So whenever if i would switch on ignition it will spill fuel everywhere. I reattached it and got a nice locking sound tried to pull it but it was really secure. What should i do?Get the connector replaced? An year ago i got my fuel pump replaced could this be because it was not connected properly?
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I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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Just dropped off my 2 door GTI for the fuel line rattle, dealer said they havent heard of this issue on the two doors, but we will find out..
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I need to replace the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail, it is old and corroding and drips out gas when I dry so I need to replace it. I have the new fuel line for it but how would I go about taking it off and the clamps? Just wanna make sure I am doing it right.
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It appears the Engine By fuel line connectors are broken. I searched for DIY'ers on how to fix, but so far I only see those related to fixing other sections on the fuel line, not this upper section. It's on the passenger side. How to fix it?
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Four days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
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Several weeks ago I was smelling gasoline odor in the cabin, mainly when I came to a stop. Took the car to the dealership,and they found a leaking connector going to the fuel rail. They tightened it up, but this morning the odor is back.
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Hit a bump in the road, car hiccuped then EPC and MIL illuminated. Scanned it with Carista and showed low fuel pressure. Looked under engine cover... Lo and behold! Connector is plugged in but male portion on regulator is snapped off!!! Needs whole fuel pump assembly at 25,000 miles!
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I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
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I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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I am getting code p0420 and want to replace the air/fuel ratio sensor and cannot figure out who to reach and remove the connector to the sensor. How to do it? I read several threads about it and saw instructions for the rear O2 sensor but not the fwd air/fuel ratio sensor.
I hope to remove it from below and avoid removing the inverter. From under the car I can see the cable leaving the sensor and I think I see it terminating in a connector on the left side of the engine. I can barely snake my arm up there and touch it, but I cannot get a good enough grip to press a release button and pull it free.
I got the rear O2 sensor changed in about 45 minutes.
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98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
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My little '87 2.9 Ranger has little metal clips that hold the electrical connector onto the injector......how do I remove and reinstall the electric connector?
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As some may remember, I had a new engine put into my B6 about 2 weeks ago. Everything had been great since, no rattles, squeaks, or check engine lights, until tonight.
About half an hour after I get home from work, my wife heads out to a meeting. She opens the door to the garage and is about knocked over with the smell of fresh gas. NOT GOOD.
I tell her to get in her car and go, I grab the flashlight and pop the hood on the B6. Low and behold, the middle gas line of the 3 lines on the front right of the engine had come completely off! It was leaking gas everywhere and directly on to the alternator. On closer inspection, I notice that the tech. when he put in the new engine, he NEVER PUT THE 3 HOSE CLAMPS ON THE GAS LINES!
They were still on the hoses, just backed off from the ends a couple of inches. Needless to say I fixed the situation, but the Service Manager will be getting a call in the morning. This could have been a very very bad situation. I didn't smell any gas on the way home. I hate to think what could have happened.
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I found trunk in 2003 GTi won't lock, and new actuator(motor) didn't, either. No signal on the connector when I press key fob switch, through rear light blink. I guess there would be another connector to this wire(green and blue) somewhere inside the passenger side C pillar.
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So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
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I was just curious is there a fuel line replacement that's pre-molded? Or do I need to get a roll of a certain diameter line and mold it my self? It's leaking right under the drivers door and it used to be pretty small but has gotten bigger. I can take a picture of the location if needed?
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One of the fuel lines on our 2007 Subaru Outback needed to be replaced (rodent damage). Now the car reeks of gasoline. The dealer said it will take time to dissipate. How we can speed up the process?
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I've got a 2010 GTI with the stock stereo. When I am using my iPhone via my iPod dock, the sound quality is good until I turn the volume up a bit (loud, but not blasting). Often it's a song that's a little bassier (hence why I'm turning it up), and it seems like after a second or two I can hear the bass levels dropping, almost like it's tuning it down. It also seems like if I mute for a second or two, and then unmute, the bass is back for a few seconds before it ramps down again. The volume levels don't seem like they'd be damaging the speakers, but is this something that it's doing to protect the speakers? Or am I just losing it?
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